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Which monster cable

I think one poster hit the nail on the head. Even if they weren't more expensive than other cables that are just as good. Even if they were slightly more hifi than other cables. Even with the warranty, the dang rigid cables are a PITA to use.
It's like having my bass plugged into a Comcast Cable box by coax.

@Wagz are you one of the individual eleven?



(full disclosure, I work for a Comcast TV station)
 
Watch out for any cable that claims to be specific to "bass" - it's a gimmick.

It's worse than a gimmick. The cables are attenuated to anticipate needs which is dangerous because you can't adjust tone. A good cable is transparent. So the bass cables roll off highs and the keyboard cables have a smiley-face EQ. Does Monster have non-attenuated cables? Doug Wimbish swears by their connector cables so they might be good (and non-specific).
 
It's worse than a gimmick. The cables are attenuated to anticipate needs which is dangerous because you can't adjust tone. A good cable is transparent. So the bass cables roll off highs and the keyboard cables have a smiley-face EQ. Does Monster have non-attenuated cables? Doug Wimbish swears by their connector cables so they might be good (and non-specific).

How in the world does a cable have frequency specific attenuation? A whole lot of capacitance may roll off highs a bit, but other than that... Nah.
 
Pros who use cables rather than a wireless use Mogami more than any other cable. I have tried Monster but when that cable finally stopped working I bought a Mogami and have been very happy with it.
 
Do any of you guys using the older Monster cables have issues with other cables falling out of your input jacks?
I have noticed some of them (Monsters) fitting really fairly snug, some others not fitting so well. Like the Planet Waves - I don't believe their marketing hype about them locking in better. I quit using the Monster cable that seemed "big" and save it for a spare as I didn't like the niggling thought that it might be bending the contact in the jack. Total nonsense but it needed to become a spare.

I strictly buy cables with quality strain relief, personally preferring the rubber that goes over the entire plug. I have yet to return a cable although I have some of the warrenties from Fender and Monster in my cable bin. I've never had a cable just quit on me, usually it has been damaged due to something stupid. And I don't expect the manufacturer to cover that. It costs me $9 in gas to go to nearest music store so I buy a few better quality cables(almost all have warrenties these days) rather than one high-end I can return.

I never re-use a cable that has failed despite soldering for my job everyday. They fail they become "rope" for me to bundle branches going out to the trash or such.
 
Monster is a high priced cable that is a workable option for players that have cash.
I'm a Broadcast Television Engineer and have for many years made every kind of cable you can imagine. I have also spent a great deal of time talking to cable manufacturers and Pro sound engineers. My recommendation to you is to learn to solder. Buy quality Switchcraft or Neutrik 1/4" Plugs and Belden or Conquest, USA 1 single conductor shielded cable. Mogami has good cable too. Solder the connections, crimp the wire holders and you will have a premium cable that will last a lifetime. All my musician friends say the cablesI made for them for $12.00 in parts are superior to anything on the market. Consumer cables are designed to break.

You can buy balanced 25' 1/4" cables for $15 and unbalanced for for $10 that are servicable. Bought 1 of each myself and gigged with them.
 

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