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Which straplocks?

Fwiw, I had problems with Shallers when in time the locking mechanism would wear out a bit. An upward movement of the bass would cause the strapbutton to slip out of the horseshoe and the bass would suddenly drop down.
 
I used Schallers for years. Then I sold them all and have been using these for about 8 years. Neoprene washers sold at hardware stores for about .50 cents. Just put your strap on, then stretch the washer over the head of the strap button. It then retains it's original shape and works fantastically. Both the guitar players in my band now use them too. Just be sure that the center hole on the neoprene washer is smaller than the head of the strap button. (They make different sizes, so it's easy to find.)

Then the only thing you have to worry about is if the wood that the screw goes into deteriorates. Then the screw could slip out. But that would occur even if you were using a traditional strap lock system. At that point, you would simply do the old "toothpick repair".


100_0867.jpg
 
Our guitarist's Dunlop lock recently popped out mid song. His Gibson Les Paul Custom hit the deck and the headstock cracked. We all just stood there open-mouthed and horrified at what we had just witnessed. £2500 down the toilet. What a horrible moment that was. Fortunately he was insured, but he'd put so much time and effort into customising that guitar himself with extra electronics a la Tom Morello....what a crying shame. Consequently, I'm only using Schaller type locks now that hook around the strap pin....even if the lock mechanism fails, the guitar is safe in its horse shoe surround.

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BIG +1 for all the reasons you cite. They are the only ones I will ever use. I am amazed how many folks are trusting some tiny ball bearings in a tiny groove.
 
As I always point out when someone posts something like the above - it doesn't work if you want to use a Fender hardshell case...

Schallers for $20 or less, FTW...


- georgestrings


Unless you're using a heavily padded strap this works fine with a Fender HSC. My straps are made from seatbelt material - very string and very thin. I fold the strap over the top of the bass and the case closes well.
 
BIG +1 for all the reasons you cite. They are the only ones I will ever use. I am amazed how many folks are trusting some tiny ball bearings in a tiny groove.

I hate to interrupt this Schaller admiration society, but nobody has bothered to mention the the fact that Schallers tend to have the nuts unscrew by themselves and come loose. Yes, Locktite was mentioned, but nobody pointed out WHY you need it!

Plus they are esthetically clunky looking, the button has a rather sharp groove in it so it's not nearly as easy to go back to a normal strap in a pinch as with dunlops. And lastly pulling that lock thing is MUCH harder to do than pressing the Dunlop button to change straps or unhook it.

I have a couple of Schallers and don't really like them, but they do lock nice. Most of my basses are Dunlops but as people noted they DO have the problem that you MUST check to make sure they are fully locked. No, those "tiny ball bearings" NEVER fail. But if you don't fully engage it, you can think it's locked when it's not. A tiny amount of Lithium grease goes far to eliminate this problem.

Bottom line: Nobody is selling the "perfect" straplock (yet). Don't let the fans tell you they are.
 
+1 for Dunlops

Had Schallers fail a few times...haven't used them since

I had Schallers fail many times in 15+ years. The lock doesn't come free from the button, but the nut and washer easily wiggle loose allowing the strap to fall off of the lock! Any solution that requires Loctite to function effectively is unsatisfactory IMO.

The Dunlop Dual Design locks rule: in 10+ years since I discovered them, I've had zero failures.

I will never ever use Schallers again. The only reason I stayed with them so long was because the Dunlop Dual Design wasn't available, and then for awhile I wasn't aware of it: I associated Dunlop with their original design, which was useless with an unlocked strap.

For absolute safety, use duct tape. ;) For me, it's Dunlop.
Dee-Dee-Ramone.jpg
 
Our guitarist's Dunlop lock recently popped out mid song. His Gibson Les Paul Custom hit the deck and the headstock cracked. We all just stood there open-mouthed and horrified at what we had just witnessed. £2500 down the toilet. What a horrible moment that was. Fortunately he was insured, but he'd put so much time and effort into customising that guitar himself with extra electronics a la Tom Morello....what a crying shame. Consequently, I'm only using Schaller type locks now that hook around the strap pin....even if the lock mechanism fails, the guitar is safe in its horse shoe surround.

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+1

First thing I do with a new (to me) guitar or bass is install a set of Schaller Strap locks (I even bought the strap pins for them from Rickenbacker for my 4001). Every one of my axes has them, and they've never failed me in over 25 years of playing.

Cheers!
:bassist::bassist::bassist:
 
I had Schallers fail many times in 15+ years. The lock doesn't come free from the button, but the nut and washer easily wiggle loose allowing the strap to fall off of the lock! Any solution that requires Loctite to function effectively is unsatisfactory IMO.

I don't get that at all. Surely after the first time it came loose (which I would not consider a failure of the product, but a failure of the owner to ensure the straplock is, and remains, properly tightened) you'd have applied some thread locking medium and ensured it never happened again...:rollno:
 
I used Schallers for years. Then I sold them all and have been using these for about 8 years. Neoprene washers sold at hardware stores for about .50 cents. Just put your strap on, then stretch the washer over the head of the strap button. It then retains it's original shape and works fantastically. Both the guitar players in my band now use them too. Just be sure that the center hole on the neoprene washer is smaller than the head of the strap button. (They make different sizes, so it's easy to find.)

Then the only thing you have to worry about is if the wood that the screw goes into deteriorates. Then the screw could slip out. But that would occur even if you were using a traditional strap lock system. At that point, you would simply do the old "toothpick repair".


100_0867.jpg


I think I may give this a shot =D... got a new member of the herd coming in this week =D... the straplocks I like have no name... and I bought the last pair my local store had... and he said if it wasn't for me he may not have sold em so he didn't want to get a whole tree of them for just me.... lol... essentially they are new screws attached with a leather piece coming out with another button on them... that button locks to itself.... but spending $1 for a solution would be awesome lol
 
I must disagree with anyone who does not trust Jim Dunlop Strap Locks.. I have used them exclusively for almsot 30 years now. I have them on everything I own. NEVER once did I have a problem with them, and never once have I lost a bass. Back in the 80's, I would run around jump on bars, swing my bass around my neck all that crap. My Strap Locks have never once failed!!!!
 
I just do the Dimarzio clip lock strap thing. You literally screw the strap to the bass. No bullcrap about it.
They're reliable. They cost around $20. Which is cheaper than paying $25 for locks and then another $20 for a decent strap.

Other than that...my vote goes to Schallers. But get the black powder coat because the finish usually prevents the washer from becoming undone.
 

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