which way do i turn the truss rod

[bassfacer22]

Don't change Your Truss rod for action buddy.. The Truss Rod is used to reinforce the neck from the string tension and then to stop buzz from certain parts of the neck

Turning your Truss rod Clockwise usually makes your action feel as if its lower because it bends the neck in a specific position to make it feel like the strings are closer and really whats happening is only some of the parts of the neck are closer to the strings.. a.k.a. - usually the middle of the neck upper area..


search this forum for Jerzy Drozd setup guide.. it has the pictures and you will WAKE UP buddy.. and not use your truss rod for action anymore..

so here.. .wake up

Let me google that for you

 

[bikeplate]

Righty, tighty. Lefty, loosie.

 

[Precision101]

Link Removed

Looks like this old folk guitar I have in my basement. The neck is literally a staircase

 

[JLS]

thanks for no one answering my question. its a schecter by the way

You're welcome.

 

[spaz21387]

If you cant lower the action enough with the bridge a shim might be needed under the neck. I have an mim fender that needed to be shimmed. Even with the saddles all the way down the action was pretty high. I could get a finger under the strings. A shim brought it down to where it needed to be.

 

[bassfacer22]

If you need a shim and whatever then that means you bought the wrong bass or you had some major major humidity problems.. or you dropped it??

It's stories like that which remind me it's ok I paid a lot for my bass..

 

[lfmn16]

thanks for no one answering my question. its a schecter by the way

Yup, this is the best way to get help - petulance.

 

[foolforthecity]

From Schecter Research web page, FAQ section, Tech Maintenance subsection:

----begin snippet----
How do I know if my neck needs adjustment?
Generally, if a neck is out of adjustment, string buzz will be more noticeable in either the center of the neck or near the first few frets & open chording area. There are many factors that can cause string buzz; your neck does not always need to be adjusted! Please consult any qualified repair technician if you are not sure or you do not know how to properly adjust a truss rod. You should not attempt to adjust the truss rod unless you are qualified to do so. Extreme adjustments can cause permanent neck damage.

What size truss rod Allen wrench do I need to adjust my neck?
A 5/32" or 4mm Allen wrench will fit the Schecter two-way adjustable truss rod.

What is a two-way adjustable (i.e., dual action/double expanding) truss rod? How does it work?
Every Diamond Series instrument has a two-way adjustable truss rod. Unlike most truss rods which allow only convex neck adjustments (back bow), the two-way adjustable truss rod allows you to adjust for either a concave or convex bow. If you tighten the truss rod nut Clockwise it bows the neck backwards, straightening the neck. As you loosen the nut you will find the neck's neutral position (the truss rod is not in use). If you continue to loosen the nut Counter Clockwise you will feel a renewed tightening as the rod causes the neck to bow forward giving the neck more relief. Click here for a diagram. Please consult any qualified repair technician if you are not sure or you do not know how to properly adjust a truss rod. You should not attempt to adjust the truss rod unless you are qualified to do so. Extreme adjustments can cause permanent neck damage.
----end snippet----

Please take note of what all these guys have said... There's a lot of collective experience here. Make sure you study everything you can surrounding instrument setup and maintenance so you fully understand what each action you perform accomplishes. Good luck-

 

[Klonk]

thanks for no one answering my question. its a schecter by the way

Maybe because the question doesn't make sense, as others now have pointed out. Neck relief doesn't (directly) affect action.

 

[Nev375]

thanks for no one answering my question. its a schecter by the way

You have a typo in your profile. It says you are 28.

Your question was already answered by the 1st 3 responses to your OP.

 

[lavmonga]

thanks for no one answering my question. its a schecter by the way

Great attitude you've got here. Your question was answered immediately. If you don't know how to turn a truss rod, or know how to google "which way do I turn a truss rod?" you should probably not being doing this yourself.

 

[the yeti]

thanks for no one answering my question. its a schecter by the way

wow.

 

[fclefgeoff]

If you have to ask you probably own a local music store.

I fixed it for you.

 

[hover]

Yup, and just keep turning the truss rod, one full revolution at a time, until you get the results you seek.

And only wait precisely 60 seconds between adjustments. That'll get that pesky action tamed up right quick.

 

[pedroims]

here is good link from a guy that knows his job very well : [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[RiZzBot]

imo. If you have to ask, dont try it. The last thing you want is to damage your truss rod. See if you can find someone who'll teach you the proper way (intonation, string height and relief) you'll be better off. Good luck buddy.

 

[arbiterusa]

If you even need to ask this question you should not be turning the truss rod at all.

 

[Lava]

I fixed it for you.

Not a store owner, but I always prefer and suggest going to a local over the GCs of the world when possible. Asked a guy at a GC for an output (edited) jack from behind the counter once and he told me that they didn't carry "that" as he was standing right in front of them.

 

[Killed_by_Death]

That's because he knows they're really output jacks.

 

[GretschWretch]

Not to contradict or disagree with what's been posted so far, but I blundered into something a few months ago (don't even recall how at this point) that has given me crazy low action on the three basses I've tried it on, including my 2013 Mexi-P which has had continuous neck bow issues.

Before installing a new set of strings I crank the truss rod until a fairly pronounced backbow appears in the neck. Then I install the strings and gradually bring them up to pitch, and once they are at pitch I give the strings overnight to have their tension pull the backbow out of the neck.
What I get is a dead flat neck (my preference over even a little relief) with stupefyingly low action -- far better than what I was able to achieve with my previous method.

I expect I will have to raise the P's G bridge saddle a microturn and a bit more on the D and A saddles to knock out a bit of fret buzz. Won't know until I check the bass this evening. But the E saddle is good as is. Then to reset the intonation, and all is good.

If I have to, I can dial a bit of relief back into the neck. But I doubt I will have to.