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who here sets up there own basses?

I have been setting up my own basses for about 10 years now. I was initially underwhelmed with the jobs that the local guys (in Lawrence, KS) were doing so I decided to teach myself. I eventually did some apprenticing with some of the head repair guys at a local music shop. I was also fortunate to befriend a brilliant electronics engineer and repairman and he helped me learn some of the electronics side of things including amp repair. Now I do setups and repairs on guitars and basses part-time and it's a fun little side business. There aren't any repairman in the immediate vicinity so I get lots of work from local studios, students of mine, their friends and other local musicians.

I think it's invaluable if you're on the road at all. That was another thing that pushed me early on to learn how to do it on my own. What do you do if something happens right before a show (or during)? It was bad enough when it happened in a populous area but, as we all know, things have a way of happening at the most inopportune times, say when you're out in the boonies in Southern Missouri or something and are lucky to find a set of guitar strings on a Monday afternoon, let alone a repairman who would come by and fix your bass at 10pm. Forget it! :D

I use a Peterson VS-1 for checking intonation. It's been my best friend for several years now. I think the type of tuner is very important and often overlooked when attempting to adjust intonation. Not that it has to be a Peterson, just something very accurate. Most tuners are inadequate for proper intonation adjustment due to the limited size of their display and hence a limit of resolution coinciding with the amount of LED's per side. In most tuners I see today, the nearest LED's to '0' is ±10 cents which just doesn't cut it, IMO.

One of the things I've added to my repertoire, if you will, is checking frets other than the 12th for intonation. Since the bass can never really be perfectly in tune at every fret, you must find the best average. I have found that a lot of basses are a bit "out" at the 12th fret compared to the other frets. So assuming you have a chromatic tuner, go ahead and check the other notes on the neck. Why limit yourself to just one? The last bass I adjusted was a bugger. It was an Ernie Ball Stingray 5 and I found that pretty much all but the 12th fret were in tune. So if I had intonated just for the 12th, the whole bass would've been slightly sharp. But since I intonated relative to the 5th, 7th, 9th and 14th frets, it played more in tune over the entire fingerboard.

It's very easy during self-teaching to assume things are correct when in fact they are not. Taking a patient, multi-faceted, scientific approach has worked for me. I can't tell you how many instruments I've had to correct after someone has made what they thought were the right adjustments. But, it takes mistakes to learn and as long as you don't strip or break the truss rod, there's not much you can do to really hurt a bass just by making incorrect adjustments. I'll admit that there are some people who just aren't suited for this kind of work but if you're interested and experiment with care, you can learn a lot about your instrument and get it (and keep it) right where you want it. Good luck all!
 
I meant replacing them...I have some instruments that a luthier gave to me, that he did not finish, since there was something wrong with them, but they have the frets. I am exploring them, trying to level the frets, make them round at the top again. I'll see if I can do something decent.
If you have a bass you don't mind chewing up a bit, it is possible to learn how to do a re-fret by yourself, provided you have the right tools. But I highly recommend connecting with a reputable local repairman to see it done before you attempt it. Some places cut corners and don't heat up the frets first so just be aware that what you may encounter out there may need to be taken with a grain of salt. But by far the most important thing is having the proper tools (ie. trued straight-edge, special wide-bar soldering tip, fret pullers). Standard pliers are NOT the recommended tool for removing frets. :D

Dan Erlewine was my first major source of outside information on setups and repairs. He has published several books and DVD's on the subject and seems to always be one step ahead of everyone else. I highly recommend his texts available from StewMac. You can also find several of his publications in print and magazine available online.
 
I set my own up...

I do relief, action, intonation, fret leveling, and minor fret repair (reseating). I haven't had to tackle any refretting, yet.

I also setup my own acoustic and electric guitars.

Edit...I forgot to mention nuts (have repaired, and made one from scratch) and bridge saddle slots...add neck shims, have done that, too...

I even refinished one bass.
 
I do full setup...

I do truss relief, bridge saddle height, file or replace the nut, intonation, and pickup height adjustment. I also feel comfortable with microtilt or adding/subtracting neck shims. I can also upgrade or fix electronics. And replace hardware.

The next thing for me to learn is fret jobs (fret replacement, crowning etc.)

I will probably never do woodwork type repairs. I may end up doing finish repairs eventually, who knows.
 
Also I agree with VintageBT6Lover but I use a $85 Boss TU-12 (has an analog meter on it) for intonation.

I don't use the 12th fret harmonic for intonation. I actually check all the dotmarked positions. I will compare open with 12th and see if the meter moves appreciably. Then I check the 3rd fret and the 15th, 5th and 17th etc. If the meter moves less than one or 2 cents for each note I know that i am close.

In general the smaller strings are very easy to get REALLY close to perfect intonation. The A sometimes is a pain but I can usually get it pretty good. The E (and B) strings are usually impossible to get perfect intonation so I usually only check up to the 15th fret and the rest after that usually end up getting progressively sharper. I have only seen one bass that I remember having an almost perfect E string and it even had 24 frets. My Jack read Custom short scale.

Some tips: If you are going to intonate, you might as well plan on having those strings on there awhile. As soon as you change brands or guages you will need a slight adjustment.

Do the setup in this order:

Change strings (or be comfortable with having them on for a long time after)
Truss rod relief (hold down string at first and last fret. credit card thickness visible under 7th fret)
Bridge saddles (follow the curvature of fingerboard. Thicker strings need progressively more space off the last fret)
Microtilt or shimming if needed (this can be tricky)
Nut filing (when you fret the first fret the string should optimally move no more than when you hold down at the 1st fret and fret the 2nd fret.)
Intonation (forget about harmonics and check more than one spot. I do all the dots)
Pickup height (usually slanted so that the G side is closer to the strings and the E further away. best thing you could do is set your eq flat and record yourself on a computer (direct) and look at the height of the waveforms for each string in most sound programs. Adjust accordingly.)
 
Definitely. I couldn't imagine paying someone else to setup my basses. Once you know there's so very little to it.

Got a new used bass delivered yesterday. FIrst thing I did when i got home was check the relief (needs less), so went to adjust the truss rod... uhoh... it was almost maxed and can't let me flatten the neck out more.

So... a few tiny washers were in store for it. That got it flattened enough to suit me.

Then took the neck off and did a quick fret leveling on it (The frets on it were a MESS and definitely needed it bad).

Put some orange stuff I use on my neck woods from Home Depot on the neck and let it sit for 20 mins. Wiped it off... Strung it back up... Adjusted the bridge now that the neck was more to how I like it...

Done... now I have a very cool Tele style J/J config 5-stringer that plays excellent for around $275 including a new hard case.

Only took me about 2 hours total, and that's while a guy was installing a new security system in my house, so there were interruptions.

Had a cheap washburn and snapped the truss rod while tightening it. Later I found out that a certain luthier I knew only ever snapped 2 and they were both Washburns. I felt better. Only ever happened that once in over a hundred basses.
 
Changing strings (the right way), adjusting relief, action, pickup height (including raising them with a piece of mouse pad if necessary), intonation and spraying pots when dirty (scratchy). That's my usual setup routine. I'd like to learn about shimming since I've found several basses (among my students') that need that treatment, but I don't dare to do that.
 
Dan Erlewine was my first major source of outside information on setups and repairs. He has published several books and DVD's on the subject and seems to always be one step ahead of everyone else. I highly recommend his texts available from StewMac. You can also find several of his publications in print and magazine available online.

Big +1. Dan Erlewine's book 'Guitar Player Repair Guide' is worth it's weight in gold!
 
just curious ...
who sets up there own basses? 2 of my basses i would like to play more get very little use because they need to be set up but i haven't had time to take them to the local luthier. although i could get it done myself but it would take me way too long. if i knew what i was doing, i could do it
quicker and it wouldn't seem to be such a task.

if enough bassist here set up there own basses, maybe i would learn and save myself time and money.
You should be able to do most set procedures yourself. Just try to do any adjustments in slight increments. There's books and sites and a ton of material available to you should you attempt it. As far as "Luthiers" you don't need a luthier to adjust an electric bass, any mechanic should be able to do it. It's akin to getting a surgeon to apply a band-aid.
 
I do everything I have No money
Just read read read about doing it then take your time do very small changes i dont let any one touch my MIM jazz I have done everything to it
New Pickups SD Vintage Drop d tuner new pots and set ups next is a new bridge
You can use tools at the start but after a while you will know what you want on the bass and the feel
ya it may be a MIM but I know how I like it
Key word is take your time and have it done by a pro but watch them if they know what they are doing they will show you how to do it they have bigger money to make than to do a setup
also if you have a cheap bass or get a cheap bass to try stuff out on first break it then oh well nothing lost
 
If you have a bass you don't mind chewing up a bit, it is possible to learn how to do a re-fret by yourself, provided you have the right tools. But I highly recommend connecting with a reputable local repairman to see it done before you attempt it. Some places cut corners and don't heat up the frets first so just be aware that what you may encounter out there may need to be taken with a grain of salt. But by far the most important thing is having the proper tools (ie. trued straight-edge, special wide-bar soldering tip, fret pullers). Standard pliers are NOT the recommended tool for removing frets. :D

Dan Erlewine was my first major source of outside information on setups and repairs. He has published several books and DVD's on the subject and seems to always be one step ahead of everyone else. I highly recommend his texts available from StewMac. You can also find several of his publications in print and magazine available online.

Yeah, I have some useless necks around. The problem here is that I don't have reputable professional. I will have to learn to do it by myself. Hope it works.
 
Also I agree with VintageBT6Lover but I use a $85 Boss TU-12 (has an analog meter on it) for intonation.

I don't use the 12th fret harmonic for intonation. I actually check all the dotmarked positions. I will compare open with 12th and see if the meter moves appreciably. Then I check the 3rd fret and the 15th, 5th and 17th etc. If the meter moves less than one or 2 cents for each note I know that i am close.

In general the smaller strings are very easy to get REALLY close to perfect intonation. The A sometimes is a pain but I can usually get it pretty good. The E (and B) strings are usually impossible to get perfect intonation so I usually only check up to the 15th fret and the rest after that usually end up getting progressively sharper. I have only seen one bass that I remember having an almost perfect E string and it even had 24 frets. My Jack read Custom short scale.

Some tips: If you are going to intonate, you might as well plan on having those strings on there awhile. As soon as you change brands or guages you will need a slight adjustment.

Do the setup in this order:

Change strings (or be comfortable with having them on for a long time after)
Truss rod relief (hold down string at first and last fret. credit card thickness visible under 7th fret)
Bridge saddles (follow the curvature of fingerboard. Thicker strings need progressively more space off the last fret)
Microtilt or shimming if needed (this can be tricky)
Nut filing (when you fret the first fret the string should optimally move no more than when you hold down at the 1st fret and fret the 2nd fret.)
Intonation (forget about harmonics and check more than one spot. I do all the dots)
Pickup height (usually slanted so that the G side is closer to the strings and the E further away. best thing you could do is set your eq flat and record yourself on a computer (direct) and look at the height of the waveforms for each string in most sound programs. Adjust accordingly.)

Hmm ..... I'm going to have to try that - Thanks ;)
 
Another tip for setting intonation... Have the bass in playing position. The weight of the headstock is enough on some basses to pull the neck far enough out that after you get the intonation set, it's out of tune when you play. I just strap it on, and start checking.

And checking at only the 12th fret and moving on is dangerous. I'll check it against other fretted notes, but the bulk of the work is done with the 12th fret compared to the 12th fret harmonic.

jte