• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Why am I having a difficult time finding this set of strings?

I play mostly in an open tuning, DGDG, which means the E and the A are tuned down a whole step. My strings are very old, and have a slight rattle when I tune down, so I am in the market for new strings, because I think the core might be separating, thus causing the rattle.

Because I tune down, I was also thinking I need something slightly heavier than what I have, which is 45 65 85 105, preferably in nickel plate, because I heard nickel might be easier on the fingers, but I cannot find a set with at least a 90 and 110 in nickel. My thinking is that the 90/110 on those two tuned down strings would not flop around as much, but if I am wrong in this thinking, I would be glad to be corrected.

Are there any such sets? Rotosound does not seem to have a nickel plated set with a 90 and 110. Maybe I should just go with stainless, as there seems to be more choices in this alloy.
 
Thanks for the replies. I just did some Talkbass reading on the DDT's, and there might be a concern with them.

My bass is 34" scale, and not through body. Apparently, the DDT's may be too long (according to reports), and therefore some of the full thickness might end up on the tuning post. Apparently, this can cause premature breaking of the core, although I must admit that I cannot understand the actual mechanism of this kind of failure, or rather why a core should be any more prone to breaking if some of the full wrap ends up on the post.
 
I could probably open up a much larger selection for myself, if I was able to use a set of 45 65 85 105, tuned down one step on the E and A. I only have this one old set to go by, and I really do not know what they are.

Might I be able to get away with these gauges if I was using DR nickel low riders? I only play with my fingers, no slap or pick.
 
OP, where are you located at?

I might suggest a set that looks closer to these gauges:
.120 - .090 - .060 -.042 (unless you absolutely love your .065 - .045 strings).

Dropping two strings is quite uncommon and thusly, you will not find a typical 4-string set that caters to your needs. However, for a bit more, you can build your own set ([Invalid or Expired Link Removed])

For example, buying single strings of the D'Addario XL Nickel Wound from JustStrings, I was able to construct a .120 - .090 - .060 - .042 set of singles for $21.42 plus shipping.
 
Near Toronto Ontario. Long and Mcquade is my usual retailer for music stuff. Thanks for the new replies. Custom sets are an option, but admittedly, I would like the simplicity of something off the shelf, if possible.

After hours of checking, I think I have narrowed it down to two half decent options, Rotobass RB50 (50 70 90 110 nickel plate, no silk) or Swingbass66 RS66LE (50 70 85 110 stainless).

It's a coin toss at this point. Both sets have something I want. I called rotosound today, and asked if indeed silking is the only difference between Rotobass and Swingbass66. They said yes, but I still have a bit of lingering doubt.

Edit: Just saw the tension chart. Thanks, I will study it. Maybe Rotobass offers singles? I will investigate. I should add that perhaps 15% of the time, I will be in standard tuning, so I suppose I need a gauge that somewhat splits the difference on the two low strings. Fussy? Yes. And I have an uncanny knack for wanting things that are hard to come by or do not exist. :)
 
Fussy? Yes. And I have an uncanny knack for wanting things that are hard to come by or do not exist. :)

I'm like that too ...

A 70 and 50 on top will be very much tighter than 65 and 45, just a warning.

Do you like the idea of a tension-balanced set ... equal tension on each string? This has many advantages, especially if you switch between tunings: the tensions are not so extreme. The method is to choose gauges to create equal tension on each string at your average tuning of EbAbDG, therefore splitting the difference.

You can use the D'Addario tension chart to approximate the tensions of other brands. However it is not a chromatic chart, for a sharp / flat note I take the average.

Link Removed sell excellent very flexible nickel-plated single strings, they have a fully chromatic tension chart here ... Link Removed.

Using the method with the Circle K chart the gauges .112 .084 .058 .043 will be the optimum custom set. At EADG the E A will be slightly tighter than the other strings, at DGDG the low D G will be slightly looser.
 
The problem with using standard sets is that almost all of them have the low strings looser than the high strings. When you detune by a wholetone the tension then drops another 25%.

Using the D'Addario chart ...

50 G 53.4 pounds of tension
70 D 60.1
90 A 54.4
110 E 46.2

50 G 53.4
70 D 60.1
90 G 43.2
110 D 36.7
 
Very helpful information. Thanks, and thanks to everyone else too. I am definitely better armed now to get the right set for me. I am going to go 45 65 for sure, since I never tune down the top, and I'll split the difference on the bottom two.
 
Well, I know I have some work to do in finding the right combo, but I was in L&M today, and picked up a set of Rotobass nickel 50 70 90 110, just to jump into something to get my feet wet, and I just finished installing them. I like the feel and the tone quite a bit, but the 90 and 110 tuned down a whole step still have that buzzy sound I was trying to get rid of. It seems to be in the string itself, and not fret rattle, and it is clear that I will have to go heavier here. I would like to stay with the Rotobass nickels, but I don't have a lot of options. Frankly, I am surprised that arguably the largest bass string maker has some serious gaps in their gauge lineup, and this is coming from a virtual bass string novice. For example, it appears that they do not to even sell single nickel strings, just stainless.

I had no problem with the 50 70 tuned to pitch. It's a strange thing that I like heavy strings, on bass and guitar, because I have small hands that are not particularly strong.
 
the 90 and 110 tuned down a whole step still have that buzzy sound I was trying to get rid of. It seems to be in the string itself, and not fret rattle, and it is clear that I will have to go heavier here. I would like to stay with the Rotobass nickels, but I don't have a lot of options. Frankly, I am surprised that arguably the largest bass string maker has some serious gaps in their gauge lineup

If the buzz is not fret buzz, it may be a resonating truss rod or hardware, or bad strings, more tension may not cure the buzz. I occasionally I find D'Addarios have a fizzing type sound, as if the windings are loose or something. You could try tightening the truss rod a little, which is probably necessary since you are using tighter strings.

Yeah 115, 120 are very common gaps in gauge choice.
 
I don't mind the new tensions, just the buzz. I did tighten the truss, and the relief is good. I also just made a discovery (yes, I know I am a bit slow out of the gate with this bass stuff). Careful listening indicates the buzzing is virtually gone when I fret the strings. That would seem to shift the source to the nut. The slots had seemed very well formed, and perfectly snug, but I have seen perfectly cut guitar nut slots that caused string buzz because there was inadequate back cut or rear lean of the slot. This causes the string to purchase itself toward the back of the nut instead of the front where it should, right up against the fretboard, and hence the oscillating string rattles right there. I will try back cutting the slots a bit.

If this solves the buzz, the present gauges will work fine. I like the feel, and seem to have no objections to the tension difference between the low and high strings.
 
Thanks for the replies. I just did some Talkbass reading on the DDT's, and there might be a concern with them.

My bass is 34" scale, and not through body. Apparently, the DDT's may be too long (according to reports), and therefore some of the full thickness might end up on the tuning post. Apparently, this can cause premature breaking of the core, although I must admit that I cannot understand the actual mechanism of this kind of failure, or rather why a core should be any more prone to breaking if some of the full wrap ends up on the post.

the DDT's will NOT be too long for a 34" scale length....through body or not.
 
Frankly, I am surprised that arguably the largest bass string maker has some serious gaps in their gauge lineup, and this is coming from a virtual bass string novice. For example, it appears that they do not to even sell single nickel strings, just stainless.


Who's the largest bass string maker?
 
Hmmm... I thought Rotosound was the largest bass string maker (hence my arguably qualifier) if we simply define largest as the company who has more bass strings on more basses in the world, but I suspect I am about to be corrected :)
 
Hmmm... I thought Rotosound was the largest bass string maker (hence my arguably qualifier) if we simply define largest as the company who has more bass strings on more basses in the world, but I suspect I am about to be corrected :)

no worries. There are different ways to meaure "largest". Largest in dollars sold or in units. Roto isn't either.
 

Latest posts