If every bass had a body shape like a Spector I would quit playing bass. That's the only thing I dislike about Spectors.
I for one am glad every bass does not have these "no brainer" features.
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Why don't all basses have...
- Thread starter SunByrne
- Start date
If every bass had a body shape like a Spector I would quit playing bass. That's the only thing I dislike about Spectors.
I for one am glad every bass does not have these "no brainer" features.
Factory Plek
Adjustable nut
Hex head for pickup height adjustment so I don’t need to hold a pointy screwdriver over my coffee table finish.
Adjustable nut
Hex head for pickup height adjustment so I don’t need to hold a pointy screwdriver over my coffee table finish.
In order of priority: Just give me 1) 4 strings, 2) rolled fretboard edges and a reasonably thin neck, 3) weight under 8.5 lbs, 4) quick release bridge, 5) a separate battery compartment if it is an active bass, and 6) If it's active I also want the ability to turn off the pre-amp and play passively as an option.
- Passive electronics
- Four strings
- No technology less than 50 years old.
I’m a Luddite.
(Also I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve needed to access the truss rod on my 1993 MIJ Fender J, which I have owned since purchased new in early 1994. Love the clean look.)
- Four strings
- No technology less than 50 years old.
I’m a Luddite.
(Also I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve needed to access the truss rod on my 1993 MIJ Fender J, which I have owned since purchased new in early 1994. Love the clean look.)
1. Truss rod adjustment wheel - easy access to make adjustments in the field with no tools.
2. Magnetic control plate and truss rod wheel covers - again, easy access to replace batteries without tools.
3. Pocket Frets - not really necessary but they look and feel good and have a nice finished touch.
4. Having had several headless basses over the decades, the most exciting recent development is top mounted headless hardware like Riviera or NS Designs instead of the classic trend of having the tuning knobs stick out past the butt of the body. Now headless instruments can have full bodies and no longer need the 'notch' or 'arch' to be cut out to accommodate the classic headless hardware.
2. Magnetic control plate and truss rod wheel covers - again, easy access to replace batteries without tools.
3. Pocket Frets - not really necessary but they look and feel good and have a nice finished touch.
4. Having had several headless basses over the decades, the most exciting recent development is top mounted headless hardware like Riviera or NS Designs instead of the classic trend of having the tuning knobs stick out past the butt of the body. Now headless instruments can have full bodies and no longer need the 'notch' or 'arch' to be cut out to accommodate the classic headless hardware.
Headless is an insane game changer, my last build has a purpleheart neck but still under 7lbs at 34" scale and great balance - but fits in a guitar gig bag!
-1 : A single action truss rod that is easily accessible without removing or dismantling anything
-2 : Frets that are a tad shorter than the fingerboard width to avoid any future fret work during a very dry season
-3 : A satin finish on the back of the neck for ease of left hand movement
Am I asking too much ?????
-2 : Frets that are a tad shorter than the fingerboard width to avoid any future fret work during a very dry season
-3 : A satin finish on the back of the neck for ease of left hand movement
Am I asking too much ?????
I like options that ease maintenance: let me tweak things without unscrewing or unstringing
- easy truss rod access - head or neck
- easily opened battery compartment
- slotted bridge
- bridge that adjusts with the strings in place
- easy truss rod access - head or neck
- easily opened battery compartment
- slotted bridge
- bridge that adjusts with the strings in place
– Bridge with individual string adjustment for height AND spacing.
– Adjustable pickup pole pieces (soooo many basses with crap string balance due to flat pickup but different string height).
– Beveled body for the forearm.
Edit: Bonus: – A bridge with slots instead of holes that you have to thread the strings through when changing them.
– Adjustable pickup pole pieces (soooo many basses with crap string balance due to flat pickup but different string height).
– Beveled body for the forearm.
Edit: Bonus: – A bridge with slots instead of holes that you have to thread the strings through when changing them.
My bass needs someone competent to play it.
Yes, easy truss rod access! I was baffled when I bought a Fender Vintera, the first thing I needed to do was to unscrew the neck to make it playable. Ridiculous...
But next to that, zero-frets. I can't believe it's such a niche thing. I really wish every bass and guitar I own had a zero fret.
But next to that, zero-frets. I can't believe it's such a niche thing. I really wish every bass and guitar I own had a zero fret.
Here you go! Vintage Fender necks don't need to be removed or loosened for truss rod adjustment
Agreed re lightweight tuners though - I love my Gotoh Res-o-lites on my vintage-style fender
Easy Truss Rod access, doesn't matter if it's headstock or a wheel, but removing neck is a deal-breaker.
Also, why don't all basses have a contoured heel instead of a square block that gets in the way? It can't be that much more expensive to curve that area, and buy a million curved neck plates instead of square ones, right?
Other than those, it's all personal preference.....
Also, why don't all basses have a contoured heel instead of a square block that gets in the way? It can't be that much more expensive to curve that area, and buy a million curved neck plates instead of square ones, right?
Other than those, it's all personal preference.....
A huge majority of acoustic guitars (and acoustic bass guitars) have built-in tuners. Why don't solid body instruments have them?
An easily accessible trussrod adjustment is a welcome feature. However, trussrod adjustment may be required only a few times a year, if at all.
Other desirable qualities are:
Two humbuckers with volume controls for each.
Humbuckers that can be switched to single coil mode.
Good weight distribution (no head dive).
Other desirable qualities are:
Two humbuckers with volume controls for each.
Humbuckers that can be switched to single coil mode.
Good weight distribution (no head dive).
For me:
- 21 or 22 frets (don't need more, there's the F# harmonic at 16th fret on D string and G double octave harmonic on G)
- Sensible truss rod access
- Upper horn in a place that promotes good balance on a strap (hint: upper strap button nowhere further up than 13th fret)
- For Fender style headstocks, A string retainer or proper angle to prevent open string buzzing
- If it's a J bass: series-parallel switch
- If it's a P-J bass: humcancelling J with enough oomph to stand up to the P
- If it's active: bypass switch, passive tone control and no-tools-required battery access
- Quick release bridge with no sharp parts to tear up my hand, and wide range of intonation adjustment
- If it has a B string - a B string that sounds just like the other strings up to at least 15th fret, but lower in pitch
- 21 or 22 frets (don't need more, there's the F# harmonic at 16th fret on D string and G double octave harmonic on G)
- Sensible truss rod access
- Upper horn in a place that promotes good balance on a strap (hint: upper strap button nowhere further up than 13th fret)
- For Fender style headstocks, A string retainer or proper angle to prevent open string buzzing
- If it's a J bass: series-parallel switch
- If it's a P-J bass: humcancelling J with enough oomph to stand up to the P
- If it's active: bypass switch, passive tone control and no-tools-required battery access
- Quick release bridge with no sharp parts to tear up my hand, and wide range of intonation adjustment
- If it has a B string - a B string that sounds just like the other strings up to at least 15th fret, but lower in pitch
1. Lightweight tuners.
2. A string retainer that holds all the strings down close to the headstock.
3. Bridge saddles with multiple grooves to allow for small string-spacing adjustments…and not the old, shallow “a threaded bar cut onto pieces” style, but actual grooves lole on the American Standards/Professionals.
Honorable mentions; I like the ideas of LEDs for preamp batteries and control covers with magnets to hold them down.
2. A string retainer that holds all the strings down close to the headstock.
3. Bridge saddles with multiple grooves to allow for small string-spacing adjustments…and not the old, shallow “a threaded bar cut onto pieces” style, but actual grooves lole on the American Standards/Professionals.
Honorable mentions; I like the ideas of LEDs for preamp batteries and control covers with magnets to hold them down.
For me my 3 would be…
- strap lock compatible buttons fitted as standard (Schallers on Sandberg)
- battery life indicator that shows battery status when you plug in (Audere)
- an active/passive circuit where there isn’t a huge volume drop when you engage passive mode (also Sandberg)
- strap lock compatible buttons fitted as standard (Schallers on Sandberg)
- battery life indicator that shows battery status when you plug in (Audere)
- an active/passive circuit where there isn’t a huge volume drop when you engage passive mode (also Sandberg)
By far and away the most important for me is having the upper strap horn reach at least the 13th fret if not the 12th or 11th. I wish I could own a Spector or Warwick Thumb. I simply adore those tones. But because of those short strap horns the basses get pushed out further towards my fretting hand which makes playing in first position QUITE a chore and in the long run, incredibly uncomfortable.
As much as I love both of my Music Man StingRay’s, it bugs the crap out of my that they don’t have quick release style bridges. It would make string changes a breeze and would keep string twisting to an absolute minimum.
All active basses should have a 100% passive bypass.
As much as I love both of my Music Man StingRay’s, it bugs the crap out of my that they don’t have quick release style bridges. It would make string changes a breeze and would keep string twisting to an absolute minimum.
All active basses should have a 100% passive bypass.
Doesn't the trim pot on many other preamps already hit that mark? As for Sandbergs, specifically, I've never owned one, so I have no idea if they have that feature.
