Hmmm... top 3...
1. Zero-fret
2. Pickup tapping (eg. Duesenberg Triton)
3. Resilient necks/neck materials
1. Zero-fret
2. Pickup tapping (eg. Duesenberg Triton)
3. Resilient necks/neck materials
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Why don't all basses have...
- Thread starter SunByrne
- Start date
You are so right on this. Used to be standard equipment. Pretty soon, even the higher end basses may go to the IKEA model - - build the case yourself, cam-bolt construction and particle board, instructions in Korean?
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,006
- 1
- 31,701
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
My personal list of must-haves:
- tilt-back headstock (or a slotted headstock, which naturally creates a downward string angle over the nut)
- an ergonomic neck joint that allows access to all of the upper frets
- weight between 8 and 9.5 lb
- either lightweight and small tuners on the headstock, or bridge-side tuners
- narrow string spacing at the bridge, wide string spacing at the nut
- asymmetrical neck carve
- symmetrical lower bout, with two strap buttons, eliminating the need for a stand
I bought a lefthanded Sire M5. Sire makes a beautiful hard plastic form fitted case (sold separately), but its only available for righthanded models. What????
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,006
- 1
- 31,701
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
You're supposed to put the lefty into the case upside-down....
Right here in this very thread:
Here you go! Vintage Fender necks don't need to be removed or loosened for truss rod adjustment
Agreed re lightweight tuners though - I love my Gotoh Res-o-lites on my vintage-style fender
I actually tried that.You're supposed to put the lefty into the case upside-down....
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,963
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
My list -
1) Light weight (under 9lbs - the more under the better)
2) Balanced when playing (no neck-dive)
3) Comfortable & balanced when playing seated (underrated)
4) Ergonomic body (bevels, contours, scallops - all in the right places)
5) Fully adjustable bridge (all needed parameters covered)
Other than the OP's personal recommendations which are legit (I'm a big fan of a rotary tr wheel at the heal) - most other details are subjective. As in - why would someone want a bass that doesn't address my 5 must-have's list? FTR, any bass I design and build covers every one, and of course also sounds great. Like Jaco was known to say - not bragging if it's a fact.
1) Light weight (under 9lbs - the more under the better)
2) Balanced when playing (no neck-dive)
3) Comfortable & balanced when playing seated (underrated)
4) Ergonomic body (bevels, contours, scallops - all in the right places)
5) Fully adjustable bridge (all needed parameters covered)
Other than the OP's personal recommendations which are legit (I'm a big fan of a rotary tr wheel at the heal) - most other details are subjective. As in - why would someone want a bass that doesn't address my 5 must-have's list? FTR, any bass I design and build covers every one, and of course also sounds great. Like Jaco was known to say - not bragging if it's a fact.
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- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,963
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I like both versions and have no problem aesthetically with a deep rout for tr access. It's kinda crazy that Leo didn't address this on his introductory P-bass. Years of players mangling his minimal access...The truss rod wheel is fine I guess. It's just a bit of an eyesore. I've been building with an allen key truss rod at the end of the fretboard, with a small channel for the wrench. Some of you might think that's an eyesore I suppose....
The case thing bothers me, too. Either a hard shell case or a really good gig bag.
I think everything I would want on a bass has been mentioned: adjustable nut, radiused pickups or adjustable pole pieces, easy truss rod access, magnetic covers for battery/control compartments, sculpted neck heel, quick release bridges......
My '78 Joodee Performer has a geared truss rod with hex key access through an unobtrusive hole in the neck plate. This has always worked perfectly.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,963
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Jim Burns (Burns of London) was the original innovator of that system from the early '60s. Later used in Gretsch guitars.
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I have 2 basses like this.... Fender Vintera 60's J bass and Fender Duff McKagan Deluxe Precision. I wasn't too surprised with the Vintera since it was a vintage replica, but the DM Precision has a modern upgrades like improved bridge "J" single coil pickup and Hipshot Xtender.... but strangely kept the "non-accessible without unscrewing the neck" truss rod. Weird.
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This would probably be my number one thing. Since I've taken up assembling basses (and learning how to set them up in the process), I find the spoke wheel at the heel to be the easiest to access and adjust (especially in smaller increments.)
