Winter Build Off 2022: 5 String Fretless Neck Through

[Gary_M]

I finally got around to routing the truss rod channel. Using a tapered neck beam complicates things a bit. So, I used the same method that I did on the first 5 string build.

Essentially, I just use a router with an edge guide which rides along a fence that runs parallel to the centerline of the neck beam. Here's a picture of the setup. The fence is attached to the bench top using "the trick", the neck is clamped in the bench dogs with a clamp at each end for extra insurance. I then clamp additional blocks of wood to the outside of the fence as stops.

And here is the primary channel completed. I bought the Bosch plunge base for my Colt router and I just love it. It really makes this little router even more versatile.

I'm using a spoke wheel rod on this build, so it needs some extra clearance at this end. Here I cut the 3/8" channel for the "neck" area.

The channel for the wheel will be inset in the end of the fingerboard and will extend down into the neck beam. I made up a quick jig for this and used a 3/8" diameter bit to keep the inside corners fairly small.

The route is oversized, but keep in mind that I have to route a "shelf" to allow for the drop top thickness and bridge clearance. Also the drop top will cover any routing ugliness.

I dropped a piece of maple on the top just to demonstrate what I'm talking about.

Here's the upcoming to-do list... a la @TerribleTim68.

• Calculate and route the offset step in the neck beam
• Bring back of beam thickness parallel to front shelf of beam
• Glue the fingerboard to the beam
• Install face dots on the board
• Drill tuner holes
• Redraw the neck thickness profile on the side of the beam
  
• Cut neck profile to thickness
• Carve neck
• Prep and glue up wing sammiches
• Revise this list 1,000 times and don't forget the kabillion little steps in between these bullet points.

 

[RichterScale]

I also sat down this morning at work and made nice list of all the steps I need to take from now until it's time for finish sanding, so I wouldn't forget anything.
Then I proceeded to forget about it and leave it at work.

 

[Gary_M]

Qüïmsgëfääërdën ÏÏ (rëvïsïtëd) Nëck Bëäm Shëlf

The next step, pardon the pun, was to route out a shelf, or a step in the top of the neck beam. This is to allow for the thickness of the maple top which will cover the top of the neck beam.

The other thing to keep in mind is that this step also needs to allow for the minimum height of the bridge including any frets (if equipped) plus the height of the action... and ideally this needs to be calculated from an outside string where the fingerboard is the thinnest due to the radius. If you don't account for your bridge minimum height, you'll have to sink your bridge into the body to fix the issue.

So, I could accomplish this in a couple different variations. The first way is to route a flat step that has the total depth to account for the top, the bridge and the action. This would be a 0 degree neck angle, just like most bolt-ons. This creates a step at the end of the fingerboard which reveals the endgrain of the neck beam below the fingerboard (unless I have a very thick fingerboard).

Another way to tackle this is to only allow for the drop top thickness at the end of the fingerboard, but allow for the total depth of the bridge, action and drop top at the scale line... This creates a sloped shelf which creates a small angle between the body and neck.

One the first version of this bass, I did a hybrid version, where I split the difference at the end of the fingerboard, showing a small amount of endgrain below the fingerboard. There is a slight amount of neck angle, probably around 1.5 degrees.

This time, I want to cover the endgrain at the end of the fingerboard, so I'll be making a more sloped shelf, creating a larger neck angle. I hope this all makes sense, I'm not sure if I explained it very clearly.

At any rate, here's how I skinned that cat, so to speak. I used my inverted pin router as it is perfect for these types of operations. The beam will be routed face-down, just like on a standard router table. I mounted guides for my pins on the back of the neck beam and left them at a safe distance from the end of the fingerboard and from the end of the body.

I will first be routing a straight step to allow for the maple top thickness. Here I've set the bit at its highest setting to the thickness of the maple.

Here we are after a couple passes, first a very shallow cut, then full depth.

Next, it's time to set up for the angled cut with more depth at the scale line. Here you can see that the neck end is just over 5mm and I have cut down the "post" at the butt end of the beam to less than half of that. Credit goes to @Rockhewer for this technique.

Back to the pin router... holding the butt end firmly down and the router still in its highest position I make another pass and the angle is created automatically. Notice the "post" at the butt end is now higher due to the angled cut.

I go back and forth, cutting down the post as needed until the desired depth is reached at the scale line. Here I'm checking the results with a straight edge and some spacers.

When I'm satisfied with the result, the post is removed with a hand plane.

Now, this operation leaves the back of the neck beam no longer parallel to the front. Here I've marked out the line where it will need to be cut away later... it's a little tough to see.

And here is a picture showing the angle from the fingerboard plane to the routed shelf (body angle). It's just 1.2 degrees according to my crappy angle gauge.

More soon.

**Edited to correct my horrid math skills. **

 

[TerribleTim68]

This method seems very interesting. I need to go ponder this some more.

 

[Gary_M]

OK, time to do some work on the headstock. I don't have any pictures of this, but I set up the fence on my band saw to just over 5/8" along with a featherboard, just like I use for any resaw operation. With the headstock face held against the fence, I shaved off the back of the headstock. I stopped at a point short of the volute transition, but far enough that the tuners have a flat base to sit on.

I hit the back of the headstock with a sanding block to flatten it.

I was shooting for an overall thickness of 5/8"... I got lucky and it was spot on.

I attached a riser block to the rear of the headstock to give myself some clearance, Clarence. Then headed to the drill press to drill 3/32" pilot holes for the tuners.

Next, I drilled 11/16" holes about 2/3 of the way through from the front to accommodate the bushings.

From the rear I drilled 9/16" holes to fit the threaded part of the tuner post.

Yeah, I know that the different sized holes aren't strictly necessary, but dang it, I like it.

More soon.

 

[Gary_M]

Last night I glued the fingerboard to the neck. Here's the play by play. I got the hide glue heated up in my wife's ex-mini-crock-pot. I did a practice clamp up and got everything laid out so that I could grab things without thinking. It was on the chilly side for HHG, so I spent about 10 minutes with the heat gun getting the neck and the board fairly warm to help to prevent the glue from gelling too quickly.

And in a couple of minutes, it's all over.

Multiple obligatory clamp shots, of course.

I got a few more odds and ends done over the past couple of days, like prepping up some mahogany for wing cores. I think this is going to be a nice color combination.

The mahogany was large enough that I could get both wing cores out of one piece, which is cool.

Tonight I took the clamps off the fingerboard. I won't cut the neck down for another day. It's cool enough in the garage that I want to give it plenty of time for the moisture to fully dissipate before I start chopping on it.

I also took some time to assign every laminate piece to a location in the wing layout. Here's an "8 bit" rendering of the proposed layout of the back of the bass.

Perhaps the biggest highlight of the past 2 days is that I put a brisket on the smoker last night. It finished around 4:00 this afternoon. It is pretty dang tasty.

OK, more soon. I gotta start making some quick progress on this thing. I can't believe how the time is flying!

 

[RichterScale]

brisket.

Weight?

 

[Gary_M]

Weight?

16lbs Looking forward to brisket sammiches for lunch.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Last night I glued the fingerboard to the neck. Here's the play by play. I got the hide glue heated up in my wife's ex-mini-crock-pot. I did a practice clamp up and got everything laid out so that I could grab things without thinking. It was on the chilly side for HHG, so I spent about 10 minutes with the heat gun getting the neck and the board fairly warm to help to prevent the glue from gelling too quickly.
View attachment 4595274

And in a couple of minutes, it's all over.
View attachment 4595275

Multiple obligatory clamp shots, of course.
View attachment 4595276

I got a few more odds and ends done over the past couple of days, like prepping up some mahogany for wing cores. I think this is going to be a nice color combination.
View attachment 4595277

The mahogany was large enough that I could get both wing cores out of one piece, which is cool.
View attachment 4595278

Tonight I took the clamps off the fingerboard. I won't cut the neck down for another day. It's cool enough in the garage that I want to give it plenty of time for the moisture to fully dissipate before I start chopping on it.
View attachment 4595279

I also took some time to assign every laminate piece to a location in the wing layout. Here's an "8 bit" rendering of the proposed layout of the back of the bass.
View attachment 4595280

Perhaps the biggest highlight of the past 2 days is that I put a brisket on the smoker last night. It finished around 4:00 this afternoon. It is pretty dang tasty.
View attachment 4595281

View attachment 4595282

OK, more soon. I gotta start making some quick progress on this thing. I can't believe how the time is flying!

I like the bass but some good brisket?

 

[RichterScale]

Yeah, that seems a little heavy.
You can send it to me and I'll lighten it up for ya.

 

[mrperkolator]

Brisket and Bass in the same post? That's it. TB cannot get better.

 

[RichterScale]

He's cheating

 

[postalflunkie]

Was the brisket smoked in cut-offs from the bass build?
That could change everything

 

[mrperkolator]

Was the brisket smoked in cut-offs from the bass build?
That could change everything

or brisket incorporated into the bass? brisket fat used to make glue? or oil the fretboard?!? never get that "smoke" smell out then......lol

 

[Gary_M]

Was the brisket smoked in cut-offs from the bass build?
That could change everything

I wish! I just don't have the patience for a real stick burner, so I bought a pellet smoker last spring. I really love it! Next time I'll chip up some mahogany put it in a smoke tube.

 

[RichterScale]

I've wanted to build an outdoor, wood fired pizza oven for a while now.

 

[Jeff Siddall]

You could start a youtube channel called "Brisket and Basses"

Sadly my smoker is buried in a snowbank, but I have some brisket from the fall stashed in the freezer. Now I'm getting hungry!

 

[Gary_M]

I've wanted to build an outdoor, wood fired pizza oven for a while now.

I would love that. We have made quite a few pizzas on the smoker and they turn out great... one of our favorites!

 

[Gary_M]

You could start a youtube channel called "Brisket and Basses"

Sadly my smoker is buried in a snowbank, but I have some brisket from the fall stashed in the freezer. Now I'm getting hungry!

Hmmmm... I've heard of worse ideas. Now you've got me thinking.

 

[postalflunkie]

I wish! I just don't have the patience for a real stick burner, so I bought a pellet smoker last spring. I really love it! Next time I'll chip up some mahogany put it in a smoke tube.
View attachment 4595651

Why I do believe that's a RecTec 700 Bull
Great smoker you've got there