• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Winter Build Off 2022 - Chester

#21
Sooooo….my progress got interrupted by my sons frozen brake caliper before he went back to CMU. I played a little today and decided no belly cut on the back of the body. I was planning it but I think I lept too soon and am afraid I did not plan far enough ahead to not have the chambering come thru where the belly cut would be….soooo….slab it is! I did some playing with the forstner bit and router and like where this is headed. Also, the try oil has overcome the water slide edges and I’m closer to being happy with the headstock. Thinking the nut, tuners and string tree are coming soon!
DB63BCB6-56CA-4ACD-A669-9AD3E8607A56.jpeg
294888BC-9F43-4CD9-B848-45A7CAB2C983.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bent77, instrumentalist, Matt Liebenau and 4 others
#23
RichterScale said:
Damn. I was gonna ask about that when I saw it marked up for the chambers the other day, but just assumed you had a plan.
Sorry, I shoulda asked anyway.
Click to expand...
All good! Cart/horse horse/cart. I’ve read so much about drawing out an planning everything. At some point I had to just dive in. It’s why I joined the build off in the first place I guess. I needed a friendly shove to get moving. Seems like this should be a slab after all…..there is always build #2 right?!?!?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bent77, Beej and RichterScale
#27
BelmontBiker said:
All good! Cart/horse horse/cart. I’ve read so much about drawing out an planning everything. At some point I had to just dive in. It’s why I joined the build off in the first place I guess. I needed a friendly shove to get moving. Seems like this should be a slab after all…..there is always build #2 right?!?!?
Click to expand...
There is. And I'm either happy to sorry to inform you there will likely be a build #22 in your relatively near future. :angel:
 
  • Like
Reactions: RichterScale and BelmontBiker
#30
I’m really loving “Sawdust Saturdays”! Chambering is complete. Safe to say I’ll never replace a CNC machine ;-). My hang up now is do I rout a channel from the pickup cavity and bridge or should I drill those? My fear is that even though the channel will start about 3/8” below the face of the bass it will still be noticeable. Am I putting too much concern into this? Open to all thoughts! In the meantime I’m going to lay out the crate face…..
6341DEDD-1BD1-42BC-A36D-B200F4E44A6C.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: TerribleTim68, Beej, TFM94 and 4 others
#31
BelmontBiker said:
I’m really loving “Sawdust Saturdays”! Chambering is complete. Safe to say I’ll never replace a CNC machine ;-). My hang up now is do I rout a channel from the pickup cavity and bridge or should I drill those? My fear is that even though the channel will start about 3/8” below the face of the bass it will still be noticeable. Am I putting too much concern into this? Open to all thoughts! In the meantime I’m going to lay out the crate face…..
View attachment 4562427
Click to expand...

It all depends on how tight to the pickup your route gets. If it is tight, then 3/8 below shouldn't be visible. If you are concerned you could always make a mockup.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RichterScale and BelmontBiker
#32
BelmontBiker said:
I’m really loving “Sawdust Saturdays”! Chambering is complete. Safe to say I’ll never replace a CNC machine ;-). My hang up now is do I rout a channel from the pickup cavity and bridge or should I drill those? My fear is that even though the channel will start about 3/8” below the face of the bass it will still be noticeable. Am I putting too much concern into this? Open to all thoughts! In the meantime I’m going to lay out the crate face…..
View attachment 4562427
Click to expand...
If you mean noticable as in visible at the pickup cavity, then it really comes down to how tight your fit is. Looking at the template you posted earlier, it might be visible. With a 0.5-1mm gap it probably would be just fine.

Three things to consider:
- With a narrow pickup cavity as yours, you might also be limited in how deep inside the cavity you can drill before the drill starts touching the oppsite surface. You can also drill from the control cavity, but I find it harder to aim that way. Don't drill through the top!
- When routing a channel, you are more flexible where you start the channel around the pickup. See where your wires come out of the pickup and how you can lead them out of the cavity.
-If you want to make absolutely sure that the cables are invisible, you can rout the channel a little deeper where it meets the pickup (say, bottom level of the cavity) and fill the top with a strip of wood matching the body. I don't think it's absolutely necessary, though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RichterScale and BelmontBiker
#34
Perhaps too much too soon! Rough cut on the band saw and thought I was close enough to the line…..not so much. Should have sanded it VERY close first….but…..all part of the process. One large piece of tear out that I can glue back in. The rest of the imperfections I think will sand away….concerned about this round spot though…..how should I handle that one?
CC6B50F1-51E8-47FA-9C17-20118BA4A7FC.jpeg3E1C8FDB-462F-492D-AC6E-73210BD79CBA.jpeg3A06A27B-E49B-4685-A5F5-F60B739D3955.jpeg04D77B78-54AF-4E14-B7EF-C3A6027AEBEB.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: TerribleTim68, ronknor, TFM94 and 1 other person
#35
BelmontBiker said:
Perhaps too much too soon! Rough cut on the band saw and thought I was close enough to the line…..not so much. Should have sanded it VERY close first….but…..all part of the process. One large piece of tear out that I can glue back in. The rest of the imperfections I think will sand away….concerned about this round spot though…..how should I handle that one?
View attachment 4562724View attachment 4562725View attachment 4562726View attachment 4562727
Click to expand...
Yeah, the big splinter is in the typical tearout position on most bodies. Been there, done that. Sanding or sawing close to the line can help that. I had the same problem with one of my earlier builds, and now I am always routing "away from the grain", either doing a climb cut (dangerous! router wants to run away from you, go slow and make shallow passes, I can't really recommend it) or turn the body around and cut some sections with a bottom-bearing router bit, and the opposite ones with a top-bearing bit.

Now that there's already tearout, glue the big piece back in. Sanding is good. If the round spot is too deep for sanding you can mount the body template slightly inward and rout again, blending it in with the curvature of the body.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TerribleTim68, instrumentalist, BelmontBiker and 1 other person
#36
TFM94 said:
Yeah, the big splinter is in the typical tearout position on most bodies. Been there, done that. Sanding or sawing close to the line can help that. I had the same problem with one of my earlier builds, and now I am always routing "away from the grain", either doing a climb cut (dangerous! router wants to run away from you, go slow and make shallow passes, I can't really recommend it) or turn the body around and cut some sections with a bottom-bearing router bit, and the opposite ones with a top-bearing bit.

Now that there's already tearout, glue the big piece back in. Sanding is good. If the round spot is too deep for sanding you can mount the body template slightly inward and rout again, blending it in with the curvature of the body.
Click to expand...

Thanks @TFM94!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: TFM94 and Reedt2000

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back