Fair enough. It was one of the things I noticed the most when switching to a system years ago that actually handled bass on paper. I never knew the difference, until I did.
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Wireless for Bass
- Thread starter Michael Riehle
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Fair enough. It was one of the things I noticed the most when switching to a system years ago that actually handled bass on paper. I never knew the difference, until I did.
This is one of my club rigs. Simple, effective and complete. I run two of the Shure GLXD-4 units, either switchable with an A/B box for two separate basses, or one for a wireless vocal mic. The little "D" shaped ports are where the rechargeable battery loads for charging. To the left of the port is the volume control, useful to quickly set a constant input between different basses, such as an active and passive bass. My passive bass volume is "+10 db" and my active basses I set at "-5 db" on the screen. Each button push is one db change. There is also a meter that shows the input and an upper bar graph that reads "OD" for over drive, which lets you know you are exceeding the clean input of the unit. After playing a bit I found where I can keep the bass giving a good signal, but not over driving and distorting the signal. This is a nice touch to keep your bass input at the same leve regardless of bass so I don't have to change amp or effect settings down the line. To the left of that is the display screen. The screen will let you know hours and minutes left on the batteries. I normally pop them in after sound check for an hour, which tops them off. I rarely run under 10 hours of run time on the batteries. It also displays the input level, channel and sub group the wireless is running in. It's dual diversity as are most, so it's always got a backup up in case one gets interference.
To the left of that are buttons for scan and manually setting freqs/sub groups, and a blue transmitter light.
Occasionally on heavy use band width areas, such as major cities (Chicago, East coast, Dallas, Denver, etc.) or on busy stages, I've noticed that after everything being good at sound check, when show time rolls around, the light might blink a little, telling me the freq I'm on is overloaded and I'm going to experience a drop out. I just push the scan button, and the system automatically finds a clean freq group in about three seconds. I actually had this happen playing one night in down town Chicago. I got a flicker going, waited for a break in the song, pushed the button, and by the time I was ready to hit the next note I was in a clean freq group. I've never had to change more than once after I've pushed the button.
I put over 600 shows on these in two years, and they are still going strong without an issue at all. The batteries are a strong as the day I got them, without any memory forming or any other issues. I normally charge the batteries between sound check and show time, often it's less than an hour. I can usually top them off with that much charge. I seldom run under 10 hours of runtime on the batteries. I did run a battery all the way down once, to see how close the estimated time left on the battery was to the display, and it was actually quite close.
I was going to get a higher level (read more expensive) unit, but there is no reason to replace them. They seem to be a very well thought out system, sturdy and packed with all the details I will ever need for gigging in clubs/pro stages. After three years, the batteries have more than paid off the system by never having to buy a battery.
If you are looking for a great club rig, with the ability to be used on bigger pro stages, this system is tailor made for that.
No, I'm not endorsing this or anything along those lines. Just a more then happy customer.
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So, I just want to say thanks to everyone (and I do mean everyone) who has commented. Like I said, my Sennheiser is still working, but I can see a day quickly coming when it will need to be replaced. The information I'm gathering here will make a big difference in my ability to make an informed decision.
And I've heard the same from others too. I've no idea why some have no problems, and others do - only my experience to go on. I love a lot about the system really, but I can't have ANY dropouts and I did, so let's just say it wasn't right for me. (Besides, that makes me feel better about selling it.)
The ONLY issue I can say that some may have, and I can understand, is the power connection, using that USB style connection. It does feel like it could get broken easily (no issues so far). Other than that, no drop outs, the sound is amazing, zero latency and I always pack a cord just in case as a backup.
As far as drop outs, the first thing I would do is plug the the transmitter back into the receiver to reset the frequency. Again, after using it almost a dozen times live I've not had that issue
As far as drop outs, the first thing I would do is plug the the transmitter back into the receiver to reset the frequency. Again, after using it almost a dozen times live I've not had that issue
Whatever you get, I highly recommend one of these: Wireless Pouch™
I put both my G30 transmitters in one of these on day one and have no issues with battery doors, accidental hits/disconnects or anything like that.
I put both my G30 transmitters in one of these on day one and have no issues with battery doors, accidental hits/disconnects or anything like that.
FWIW, I tried that - multiple times. However, in it's defense here's what I really did like about it. Rechargable battery built-in, auto select frequency, jack switch to auto disconnect, single plug in (no strap hangers). The power issue pops up all the time, but again I didn't have a problem. I kept it on top of my amp, though i know some would prefer the base to be on their pedal board. So I see the issue, just wasn't one for me.
Most of the complaints I see for it are problems with active guitars (never had a prob myself with my Ibby active tho) and that USB power. If I had no dropouts, I'd have it still. Sound quality was fine to my ears at least!
So really, I didn't hate it and it worked perfectly at home and even on stage, till the audience showed up. I'm still convinced it was noisy cell phones they brought in. I sort of proved it once actually when playing for some friends. Perfect till one group of 3 showed up. Switched to cable. They left earlier than the rest though. Switched back to G10 and it was again flawless. Of note, when those 3 showed up the Wifi also died!
I dunno how much more I can add to this discussion, but I can tell you I've owned the Line 6 G50(I still have a G90 in a box) and the Shure GLX-D. I'm not gonna say anything bad about Line 6(I have a Helix and it rules!), but the Shure is just a little bit better from my experience. I, too, wanted to get away from racking my wireless and just have it on my board. The main thing I like about the GLX-D, besides the sound quality and the build quality, is the antennae aren't the twist-on, stick-up type. We're all pretty active onstage and my singer was constantly stepping on my G50(It's at the far right end of my board). He never actually broke anything, but he bent the antennas. Switched to the GLX-D, problem solved.
They're pretty comparable, sound-wise, and I do like the transmitter of the G50 a little better, but the lo-pro antenna, and the durability gives the GLX-D an edge for me.
Oh yeah, the tuner in the Shure is actually fairly decent. It's not Turbo Tuner quality, but it's definitely TU-2/3 quality.
They're pretty comparable, sound-wise, and I do like the transmitter of the G50 a little better, but the lo-pro antenna, and the durability gives the GLX-D an edge for me.
Oh yeah, the tuner in the Shure is actually fairly decent. It's not Turbo Tuner quality, but it's definitely TU-2/3 quality.
+1 for Smoothhound. It has slightly higher latency than some of the best Line 6 gear, but nothing that I've ever noticed live (it's around 8ms. I think); but it's really compact, good value and has a good range. I've really enjoyed using it live and has not let me down once. Probably the most popular wireless with UK bass players on Basschat. Definitely worth checking out.
OK, so is it down by 2 db, 3 db or 6 db at 50 cycles? are competing units appreciably better down this low? the response of the loudspeakers may have rolled off by more than that at 50 cycles. nothing a little eq could not fix if it were to be a real issue. i play a 5er with the low b tuned down to a and it does not seem to be an issue in the real world given that most of what you hear down this low is higher harmonics anyway.
So, one more nail in the coffin of my current unit.
I played a show last night. Put in a "fresh" battery like I always do.
Second to the last song of the night, the battery indicator on the transmitter was green. Played one more song. The battery indicator was red. If we had needed to play anymore songs I would have needed to switch to a cable.
Now, to be fair, I think the "fresh" battery may not have been all that fresh after all. So that's a factor. But that's always going to be a factor, so this is not acceptable.
I played a show last night. Put in a "fresh" battery like I always do.
Second to the last song of the night, the battery indicator on the transmitter was green. Played one more song. The battery indicator was red. If we had needed to play anymore songs I would have needed to switch to a cable.
Now, to be fair, I think the "fresh" battery may not have been all that fresh after all. So that's a factor. But that's always going to be a factor, so this is not acceptable.
I’ve 2 G30 units. One on my fretted 6er and one on my fretless 5.
I’ve used them for over 100 gigs over the last 3 years without a single problem.
Yeah. That's my general rule. But this battery was in the original packaging. It was a brand new battery, never used. What they don't tell you is that the battery loses charge just sitting there. Who knows when I bought this battery. But it clearly wasn't recently.
I always use rechargeable NiCad batteries and an extra battery holder for my Sony wireless for a quick change.
In my experience, yes. As long as it works for you and your application, sweet!
More Line 6 G50 input.
1st transmitter lasted about 300 shows, plastic jack got sloppy, bought a new one.
2nd transmitter lasted about 500+ shows, battery door cratered.
3rd transmitter arrived DOA(Monday) from AMS. It powered up but would not link on any channel(transmitter circuitry fubar). Returned in a pre-paid UPS box today, they ship a replacement when they see the UPS return label in their system from UPS.
Can't really complain as I've had wireless since the original blue NADY packs. 3 screws to replace a battery + receivers and t-mitter packs were fragile.
1st transmitter lasted about 300 shows, plastic jack got sloppy, bought a new one.
2nd transmitter lasted about 500+ shows, battery door cratered.
3rd transmitter arrived DOA(Monday) from AMS. It powered up but would not link on any channel(transmitter circuitry fubar). Returned in a pre-paid UPS box today, they ship a replacement when they see the UPS return label in their system from UPS.
Can't really complain as I've had wireless since the original blue NADY packs. 3 screws to replace a battery + receivers and t-mitter packs were fragile.
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