I know it's a big ask but could you send me a wiring
diagram for this set up please.
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Wiring for this bass
- Thread starter Dcparker
- Start date
diagram for this set up please.
This ^
I'd take advantage (
) of the opportunity and go that route. V-S/P Switch-T would make for a killer, very versatile bass. Quite a looker too! 
Sorry to be a complete dunce but where would I get that switch from and exactly what would I ask for.
I’m not sure how much flexibility and versatility a bridge would actually need to have since it basically only has one function. And if you can adjust the action to where you like it, and set the intonation accurately, then it does everything a bridge really needs to do. The only possible drawback I can see is that a Gibson 3-point bridge has a fixed 12” radius. So if the fretboard on that bass is different then it could make some sense to change it.
And…it’s definitely not the prettiest bridge ever made. So there’s that.
Either way, that’s a really sweet bass. The 77s through 87s were made by Matsumoku, a company know for quality instruments. Then Kasuga until 1990 or thereabouts. IIRC Samick took over the brand after that. And Samick makes good guitars too once you get away from some of the ultra budget models they build under contract for other brands.
Your bass definitely looks like a Matsumoku build. And if so then you scored a top quality bass for yourself. (Can you guess I’m a fan of that company?
)Congratulations on a great find! Play it well.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,007
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- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Bridges don’t need to be “versatile”. A bridge is usually adjusted once and then you’re done. It’s not something you tweak every few months.
So if it gives you the action you like, it’s good. Leave it.
Sorry for all the different suggestions, but here’s one more.
If you are replacing the bridge you will probably have to do some wood cosmetic repair. That bridge you have is huge and whatever you replace it with will be smaller and make some “sins” of the previous bridge visible.
While you are at it, maybe consider taking some dowel stock and plugging one of the potentiometer holes.
Then go back with a 250K linear taper volume and a 250K audio taper tone.
If you don’t want to plug that 3rd hole, maybe consider a piezo pickup under the bridge. And make it VVT but you may need a battery if you go that route.
If you are replacing the bridge you will probably have to do some wood cosmetic repair. That bridge you have is huge and whatever you replace it with will be smaller and make some “sins” of the previous bridge visible.
While you are at it, maybe consider taking some dowel stock and plugging one of the potentiometer holes.
Then go back with a 250K linear taper volume and a 250K audio taper tone.
If you don’t want to plug that 3rd hole, maybe consider a piezo pickup under the bridge. And make it VVT but you may need a battery if you go that route.
I was replacing the bridge for a number of reasons. The saddles where not all of the same type and I couldn't find a replacement just for them.When I looked to replace the bridge, like for like I couldn't find one exactly the same size with a curve,also they were all made of zinc alloy which isn't very hard wearing. I have had to just opt for buying a bridge just for the saddles.
