I don't know if this will help, but here's another way of looking at it.
You want to find the wire that goes from a terminal of the switch to the spot on the board right where C1 and R1 are connected together. If it's a short wire, you might be able to simply replace that wire with the new resistor. If that's not possible you'll have to unsolder the wire and insert the resistor. This might be easiest to do at the switch end of the wire - ie; solder the resistor to the switch terminal.
WARNING: TECH NOTES
You're creating an attenuator (or voltage divider network.) Ignoring C1 and everything after it for a moment, lets look at what's happening.
Code:
from switch
o
|
.-.new resistor
| |
| |
'-'
| ||
o---||-----
| ||
| C1
.-.
| |R1
| |
'-'
|
|
===
GND
Your signal is a voltage, voltage across a resistor causes current to flow. Likewise, current through a resistor creates a voltage.
In the original schematic, all your signal (voltage) is applied across one resistor, R1. This means that all the voltage also appears at C1.
In the revised schematic, your signal is applied across
two resistors, R1 and the new one. The current flowing through the new resistor causes a voltage to be created across that resistor. This voltage is effectively subtracted from the full signal voltage, leaving a fraction of the full voltage to appear at C1. That fraction happens to be the ratio of the two resistors.
So, without going into how it's created, here's the formula for those playing along at home.
Vx = (Vin x R1) ÷ (R1 + Rnew)
Without plugging in the voltages you can work out the ratio of the resistors which will give you the attenuation "factor" - if you will.
4.7M ÷ (4.7M + 4.7k) = 0.999
Pretty mild, you might want to up the ante, but try it first.