• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

wood tools fearful build

basscooker

Inactive
Commercial User
Apr 11, 2010
5,727
10,063
Northern KY
Disclosures
Cab fan, hobbyist
so after years of tinkering and assorted projects, i've decided the next one is probably gonna be a 12/6. i've never used any plans per say, so with all the info and yous guys available i figure i've got a real shot at making it well. qustion is this-- i have a table saw, jig saw and drills, and can use them well, but no router. can it be done?
 
Table saw and jigsaw are really all you need for cutting the wood/driver/jackplate/handle cutouts. If you don't have a compressor and brad nailer, clamps and a cordless drill will work just fine too. The only thing you'd be missing the router for would be rounding over the edges of the cab and that's an aesthetic call, not a functional necessity.
 
Circular saw and a jigsaw, and several 24" clamps at minimum. I prefer brad nails over clamps myself though, so a brad nailer is good.

Roundover can be accomplished with a belt sander and patience.
 
If you're short on clamps and don't have a brad nailer drywall/ grabber type screws and a pilot / countersink bit will work. Remove them when the PL has set (they don't add any strength to the PL) and fill the holes (a bit of extra work). An alternative with smaller holes to fill, use finish nails. Clip the head off one, chuck it up in your drill and drill all the pilot holes with it. If you aren't rounding over, when the glue is fill cured, just set them and fill. If you are rounding, just set them a little deeper.

For the jig saw, you can make a trammel out of a scrap or thin plywood or whatever. Drill a big enough hole for the blade plus a little deflection and screw it to the base of the saw. For the pivot pin (nail, screw whatever), locate it half the diameter (radius) of the circle you are cutting 90° from the outside of the blade. practice on scrap. If you have a wood rasp, you can cut slightly on the small side and enlarge as needed. As long as your hole isn't larger than the driver, it won't show. Again, practice on scrap for best results. Go slow, use a fresh blade.
 
Yeah, router can make some things easier but you don't need one by any means. I give my edges a little roundover with a rasp. If you want a bigger radius, set your saw at a 45, shave the edge off and smooth it with coarse sandpaper.

I use some clamps I have to hold things straight while run little #6 or #8 screws in, then take them off and use on the next piece. Yes, you can go back and remove all the screws and fill but I consider that a bunch of extra work for nothing. Just sink them a little and leave them in there, it only adds like 2 lbs....big deal. Woodfiller over them if you're doing a duratex or paint finish.
 
For the record I built a 12/6 with PL Premium, a drill, and a jigsaw. (and beer) I had a circular saw but my blade was shot and I didn't want to run to the hardware store to buy a new one. (because the beer) The cab turned out OK, not really pretty but functional. I figured after my practice cab I would built another one with proper tools if I liked it. I did build another cab, just a 12/sub. Still play my 1st cab, minor imperfections and all.
 

Latest posts