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Wood & Tronics Club

Heres a couple of pics of my Tj-6, looking forward to the Pope pre, but like what you were saying about the "sweepable" mids, may look into the East if the Pope doesn't work for me.
 

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Dude, that is incredible.....really, wow. I love it.

Good luck with the pope pre, i would love to hear how it works out. if you look into the East pre,I reccomend the SP2 pre, with the mid module swapped for the stacked mid module from the u retro. It has internally sweepable freq points for the treble and bass bands as well. I like being able to tweak each band. In the end fidelity and dynamic range are the most important considerations for me. I have an empress para eq that comes in really handy for specific eq needs.
 
Thanks Jake, I absolutely love this bass...the 3 radiused pups act like a large louvered ramp with height and angle for each pickup. With p/u selector switch for 2 pups at a time (front, outside, back). 16.5mm bridge, phenolwood board, had Joe cut the end of the board off to be able to slap/pop a bit, this bass is amazing...but still would love to get a WT bass someday!

Thanks Jake for your input regarding the East, Now i'm thinking maybe the Pope was premature...this GAS is killin' me ;)
 

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The bass should arrive Friday and I get back in town for a day Sunday to grab it.

The bass was technically "used" because it was built for Sergio (the wood supplier for W&T) and was built using his collection of wood that he collected over many years.

I have the nut cut for B-G tuning but also had them include the E-C nut in case I decide to go with that tuning.

here are the specs:

CHRONOS 5 "S.B. Custom"


Through-neck / Scale length: 33" / Strings interspace at the bridge: 19mm (Garrison/Gwizdala-style) / Strings interspace at the nut: 9mm

Stringing: can be either 030 040 060 080 100 or 040 060 080 100 120, and we will fit the proper nut accordingly. 

Neck: 7-piece combination (from side to core to opposite side): LIGNUM VITAE/EBONY/ASH/ASH/ASH/EBONY/LIGNUM VITAE. 
- Two 0.6mm Ebony separation laminates between Ash sections.
- Ash is quarter-sawn: the veins are straight along their length for optimised resonance transmission.
Heel block: Blue Mahoe
Tongue: Orange Osage
Fretboard: Ebony

Frets: 24
Fret size: Mandolin size
Position markers on the fretboard: Abalone

Body wood: Koa
Separation veneer: Black
Top: Camphor Burl

Pickups: Bassculture/W&T custom Alnico 5 Dual Coils with layered and Ebony-topped cases
Pickups placement: Matt Garrison/Janek Gwizdala spacing
Tuners: Schaller – Ruthenium finish

Bridge: ETS 2-piece – Ruthenium finish
Preamp: East/W&T 3-band preamp with internal frequency presets. 

Nut: brass
Finish: Polyurethane Satin finish

Ebony Finger ramp
 
Looks amazing Ryan! I hope you dig in to the internal trim pots to set the eq points to your liking. it's so hip, I'm amazed nobody else is doing this as elegantly (without jumpers/caps/dip switches). This pre is a jewel.

Those woods are indeed sick...
 
Jake, the bass was delivered yesterday.... I'll get it tomorrow when I get back in town. Can't wait.

Can you tell me more about the preamp in my bass?

Volume, pan, bass, mid, treble?
Internal trim wheels on the bass, mid and treble to select the desired freq?

Also, if I switched out the mid for the stacked mid like you did is that a "solder free" change or would I have to have someone do a lot to get it installed?

Is it hard to get matching knobs if I added a stacked mid?

Thanks!

Ryan
 
Sweet! Can't wait to hear about it.

Currently, you have Vol, blend, bass, mid, treble (or T,M,B).

Inside, attached to the treble pot (I think) is a circuit board with one mini trim pot for output volume, and two thumbwheels on it. One is for treble and one is for bass frequency center point. Remember that the bass knob (even thought it has a detent) is boost only, unlike the treble and mids which are boost/cut. I like to crank up my rig, and boost the onboard bass at least half to 3/4 up, and sweep the thumbwheel to find the sweet spot that you like best and is most usable to for boost. For treble, same procedure, except that you can also evaluate the sweet spot for cutting treble as well, which can be helpful, especially if you dont have a passive tone control, which I believe you don't.

As for the mid module, you should have another smaller circuit board in the cavity with two dip switches (they control the range of the mid freq sweep on the mid thumbwheel), I put my dip switches in the position that yields the widest sweep, on mine its 1:down, 2:up. the thumbwheel has the same function as with bass/treble. Replacing that module with the stacked mids requires no soldering IIRC, just swap out via the flat pin connectors that the stock mid module plugs into. You'll still have the two dip switches to control the range of freq sweep. But the stacked mid setup is really sweet for drastic or minute on-the-fly changes.

Not sure if whoever makes that knob makes a matching stacked version, might have to find one that is the same color but different shape, like i did. maybe Invalid Link Removed?
 
I used the black dome stacked knob from the U Retro this bass originally had. Then I got wood knobs from Enrico. So now it has brown wood knobs, and the stacked dome knob. it works, Doesnt bother me too much
 
BEAUTIFUL Holly topped 33" Zoid 5'er in the classifieds if anyone is looking. If my Elrick 6 sells I will grab it, but i can't say when that will happen and it is a beauty :)

Thanks for the kind words, Jim :). It's a complete beauty, I have just saw another bass (Roscoe) that would suit me better I think so I'd rather this went to a more appreciative owner than myself!

image_zpsdde23813.gif
 

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