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Double Bass Yamahiko Double Bass Pickup

what's the consensus on single vs. dual element?


Pretty sure the best option can vary from bass to bass. Each instrument will have different characteristic vibration modes.

Sometimes there is not a clear best. A single element may be better in some ways, while double element is better in other ways. So you wind up choosing the compromise that best suits you.
 
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Pretty sure the best option can vary from bass to bass. Each instrument will have different characteristic vibration modes.

Sometimes there is not a clear best. A single element may be better in some ways, while double element is better in other ways. So you wind up choosing the compromise that best suits you.
Thanks, Wasnex.

I don't disagree, but I'm also not sure that I'm willing to spend the extra $160 plus additional tariffs/duties to experiment with 2 elements ($382) if the majority of users settle on a single element ($223). I know it's been discussed here, and I'll try to go back through the thread to find more info.
 
Pretty sure there is no consensus. Compared to other pickups I've used, I'm very happy with single element E-Side.

Would double be better? I'm convinced that it could be with some combination of phase inversion and dual channel preamp blending and endless other variables, but I don't want to go chasing that or throwing money it it.

Compared to Full Circle, Lifeline, Realist, Stat-B, and a few bridge wing things, since element is a great pickup. The cap is important, it I'm not sure which one yet. Trying a new on this weekend. They're cheap, buy a few of each value. I'll have some extras to send out at some point.
 
Here is the double TRS set up recorded years ago with a mic so you can compare the acoustic sound to the Yamahiko. I preferred the TRS set up but I think I get a better sound these days with just a Realist Lifeline. The Yamahiko mounts much better than the Lifeline. The bass I was using on the recording below had gut strings on it. (I am using the Lifeline on another bass so who really knows...)
The Yamahiko is working out well for me. Here is some quick audio. I also recorded the Remic mic as well as the Yamahiko so you can a/b and get a sense of the acoustic sound of my bass. (She's still new and we are just getting to know each other.) The Yamahiko is running into a Felix via TRS cable. The mix is between the sides of the pick-up is favoring the E side. It sounds pretty much like my realist did but clearer in the higher registers. I do love how it's mounted. They all kind of sound the same in the end, not as nice as a mic. Both the Felix and Remic are running into my UAD Apollo interface.

I guess I should also state the obvious this is "direct". There is no speaker/room to color the sound. Piezo's always sound better through a speaker but I learn a lot from listening to myself direct.

Dropbox - Yamahiko_test
 
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Hey everybody. I’m making my way through this thread (up to page 14) but it’s a long way to the finish line. There’s a lot of stuff to weed through but I’m posting because my 3rd or 4th Full Circle has crapped out on me. Frankly I’ve lost count but this one only lasted 2 years and for the price to me it’s unacceptable. So to all of the Y users out there (since this thread spans 10 years), how are these holding up ? Any durability issues, and if so what is the customer service experience in those situations? I need to put a pickup on that’s not going to fail so soon. I feel like 8-10 years is a reasonable life expectancy, maybe longer if the Y is as robust as it seems from some reports here. TIA!
 
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I'm getting ready to get my bass in for some pretty invasive repairs and I figure now is the time to get a Yamahiko on order so the bridge can be cut for it. I'll go with the M8 threads.

I know many of you have experimented with different configurations over the last 10yrs since this thread was started; what's the consensus on single vs. dual element? Threads up or threads down? Anything else I should consider? I'll do the cap mods myself.

Thanks!
I would go threads down, and as I might have mentioned in this thread, there was someone selling a M8 single element version in the classifieds some months back. I don’t know if he ever sold it, but it was basically new. I would like to try the double element version someday, but I’m happy with the single element. If you don’t mind spending extra money, you could get the double, try it with and without the treble side element connected.
 
Hey everybody. I’m making my way through this thread (up to page 14) but it’s a long way to the finish line. There’s a lot of stuff to weed through but I’m posting because my 3rd or 4th Full Circle has crapped out on me. Frankly I’ve lost count but this one only lasted 2 years and for the price to me it’s unacceptable. So to all of the Y users out there (since this thread spans 10 years), how are these holding up ? Any durability issues, and if so what is the customer service experience in those situations? I need to put a pickup on that’s not going to fail so soon. I feel like 8-10 years is a reasonable life expectancy, maybe longer if the Y is as robust as it seems from some reports here. TIA!
They are pretty indestructible. They also are the best adjusters I've ever used.
 
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Hope it’s okay to post this here since I also posted the same question in one of the ToneDexter forums.

Who is using the Yamahiko with the ToneDexter? I’m tempted to order a Yamahiko, but I am not confident how it will sound with the TD-II vs the Realist Lifeline I currently use.

The Lifeline is a great pickup but perhaps lacking a bit in higher frequency content (for what is ideal for the TD anyway). The TD will over compensate for a signal without enough highs/mid-highs.

P.S. — i received the Neutrik Timbre plug. I have not made a cable with it yet, but I measured the capacitance and can confirm that its 0 nF, 1nF, 2.2 nF, and 3.3nF. I would think this would be an ideal tool for those making a custom cable or jack. My original interest was simply to have a passive pad/volume control on the bass for piezo pickups in general, not just the Y.
 
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Experimenting today between 2.2nF and 3.3nF caps. I had also bought some 4.7nF caps, but have never installed them. (Single element, E-Side)

Went back and forth between no caps (regular cable), the cable that I installed the 3.3 cap in a month or so back, and a new cable* that I installed a 2.2 cap in.

Directly into either my EA iAmp or my AI Clarus, without any cap, it's hot. My thumb on the back of the neck is sizzle-y through the speaker. The "attack" of my fingers on the strings is prominent. If I cut high-mids completly to start it's okay, but I felt like it had to played around it a bit.

What worked better was putting a Tech21 Q\Strip in front and going to the effects return to bypass the amps' pre. But, on my "small amp" nights, it was one more thing to bring and a few extra potential failure points.

I originally bought 3.3nF and 4.7nF caps, installed the 3.3 first and played it through the AI almost flat. I could not originally source 2.2nF caps, but I picked some up this week.

After going back and forth between nothing, 2.2 and 3.3nF today, I settled back on 3.3nF. I don't notice much, if any, volume drop, but that sense that my whole bass was mic'ed up too hot and needed either really heavy reductive eq or very careful playing around it is gone.

It sounds really nice. There is still plenty of frequency to work with, if I wanted or needed to eq to the room, but I'm starting in a better place now. I'm not tempted to try 4.7nF, it would just cut more high mids and I don't feel like I need that. It's a reasonable ask of the on-board EQ at this point, if needed at all.

*The other change I made is that I bought this 8" FTM instrument cable to hold the cap, so that I can use any instrument cable. Easy to keep it in my bass case and not risk grabbing the wrong one on my way out the door.

I'm happy with the result. Can't think of a pickup I would rather have and happy not to need additional devices between me and the amp to make it work as I want.

IMG_20260104_162327822_HDR~2.jpg
 
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I'm not tempted to try 4.7nF

You also recently inspired me to revisit all the capacitor options. At least try the 4.7 — it’ll be 15 minutes of your life for the sake of completion of a scientific methodology. I’m glad I went through all three on all my basses/amps/pres because now I’m 100% confident I don’t have to revisit that rabbit hole again.
 
You also recently inspired me to revisit all the capacitor options. At least try the 4.7 — it’ll be 15 minutes of your life for the sake of completion of a scientific methodology. I’m glad I went through all three on all my basses/amps/pres because now I’m 100% confident I don’t have to revisit that rabbit hole again.
But are you sure you don’t want to try 4.7 and 3.3 nF in series? Are sURE?? THAT could be the sweet spot.
 
But are you sure you don’t want to try 4.7 and 3.3 nF in series? Are sURE?? THAT could be the sweet spot.
I don’t have a horse in this race to the bottom frequencies, but,

FWIW, in case it hasn’t been mentioned:

Capacitors aren’t like resistors when
added together:

R (total) = R1 + R2, for resistors
1/C (total) = 1/C1 + 1/C2

So, adding resistors in series, that
is, one after the other, increases the
total resistance.

Adding capacitors in series, that is,
one after the other, decreases the
total capacitance. You can add
capacitors in parallel to increase
the total capacitance.

‘The more you know’… the more it
probably isn’t useful or interesting
here.
…Back to Nerdville…————->>>>>>
 
I’m back on both elements on my 5 string, cap’d at 4.7 in the input jack into the Tone Dexter 2.

The only thing I’d like to do differently before I turn back off my gear-minded-thought is dial back the treble side pup just a little bit. I know I can do it in the TD2 with dual cables (or a stereo one), but …

You guys jest, but all this capacitor in series/parallel talk got me thinking: if dual element is wired in the traditional way, what would happen if I used one of the 3 spare output jacks on the treble pickup to wire in another capacitor? Would it reduce the volume of only the treble side pickup, or increase total resistance of the whole dual signal?
 
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You also recently inspired me to revisit all the capacitor options. At least try the 4.7 — it’ll be 15 minutes of your life for the sake of completion of a scientific methodology. I’m glad I went through all three on all my basses/amps/pres because now I’m 100% confident I don’t have to revisit that rabbit hole again.

Unless I start having a bad result on gigs, I don't want to keep experimenting. I know I could use 2 elements, reverse phase, blended with a mic, etc, but after a point I just don't see the value and it's a distraction from playing better.

And, I play mostly in bars. The room and room noise that come with it are a MUCH bigger influence on the sound than which cable I'm using.

This whole discussion is going to scare a bunch of people off of the Yamahiko, which is a shame, because it's better than anything else I've ever used by a lot. It does either need a pre-amp or a cap, aside from that, plug it into a piezo friendly amp, adjust the EQ or not and have a good hit.
 
Troyk, I hear where you’re coming from and don’t mean to scare anyone away - my apologies.

I just like to tinker with stuff and luckily this experiment was easy enough to try without much effort. I simply stuck a 3.3 cap in the treble side extra pickup jack, grounded on the outside and sure enough it knocks back only the treble side and just the right amount for my tastes! Super bitchin’, imho. I would much rather a hardware solution like this than having to rely on extra cords or preamp software magic to do the buisness.
image.jpg


Now that I know it works great, I’ve got a spare dual element connector cable from the element I broke and I’ll solder up a classier looking screw on solution.
image.jpg



So funny to me that Eli nailed the cap rating in his joke. 3.3 was the sweet spot for me. Moral of the story is there’s no wrong way to Yamahiko. ‘Salt to taste.’

At any rate, this is an easier way to try different cap values on these pickups than having to solder a bunch of cables. Now you’ve got no excuse not to try the 4.7, Troy, lol
 
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So...you attached a cap to one of the connector ports that isn't the one you are running the cable off of? That hurts my brain.

So, would it be possible to do that instead of putting one in-line?

I'm pretty happy with the little 8" cable holding the cap. That feels like an easy and clean solution for me.