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Zoom B3 As Preamp
- Thread starter CharlieC
- Start date
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I'll look into that splitter. Hopefully GC has something like that in stock so i don't have to buy online.
But no, my main cab is a 2x12 rated at 600w which is generally fine if I have PA support. If not i have to basically crank the level knob for the one cab to compete with the guitarist. With the possibility of an outdoor gig with no PA support looming, I was looking to add a little bit of oomph with the second cab and/or not have to crank the 2x12 all the time. Oh the joys of being in rock/metal band.
What is the impedance of your main 2x12? 8 or 4 ohms?
What is the other cab?
I have now tested and confirmed that "MODE: INPUT Y" on Crown XLS amplifiers negates use of an external Y-cable and allows internally for the exact same result.
Use the splitter cable money for beer instead!
Cheers!
Connecting The Gear:
- Run a single 1/4" cable from the B3's L/MONO out to amp's Channel 1 input
- Connect first cabinet to Channel 1's speaker out
- Connect second cabinet to Channel 2's speaker out
- You will eventually use the amp's attenuator knobs to balance-out cabinet levels
- Hold the MODE/MENU button down for 3-seconds until LCD screen displays "AMP MODE <MORE>"
- Press the MODE/MENU button again to enter the AMP MODE menu
- Press the NEXT button until the LCD screen reads "MODE: INPUT Y"
- Press the MODE/MENU button to confirm selection and continue
- Press the NEXT button until the LCD screen reads "FILTER: BYPASS"
- Press the MODE/MENU button to confirm selection and exit
- The LCD screen should now read "INPUT Y, BYPASS"
Thanks CharlieC, most helpful (as usual)!Besides I am using the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] and I am very happy with it.
To save space on the top I am considering to put the stompbox like wireless receiver RXS06 of the G30 set underneath the Pedaltrain Nano. Can anyone who owns the Pedaltrain Nano tell me what the exact distance is between the two parallel bars on the bottom of the Nano? The RXS06 is not high and would for sure fit underneath the Nano in that respect. I guess this from what I could find on the internet, i.e. setup similar to putting a power supply such as the setup underneath the Nano or this Invalid Link Removed with a Fuel Tank Junior. However, the G30 RXS06 width is 8 cm (3.15 inch) and the output cable plugs into its side, i.e. adds to the 8cm and I fear it might get tight there. Can anyone help me?
I do not own a Nano board yet otherwise I would have measursured, but I have seen other owners raise the Nano's four rubber feet to allow for more clearance underneath.
Cheers!
Headcase
Carvin's popular SV2 2-space rack is perfect for transporting your shallow-depth power amp if that is your only piece of rackable gear.
Besides the modest price, it is available in custom coverings and there are no front/rear lids to worry about stowing away on-site at the gig.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Carvin's popular SV2 2-space rack is perfect for transporting your shallow-depth power amp if that is your only piece of rackable gear.
Besides the modest price, it is available in custom coverings and there are no front/rear lids to worry about stowing away on-site at the gig.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
4Ohm.
A 210. And before everybody goes off the cliff about mixing cab sizes....yes....i know...but i've also heard enough to the contrary to give it a try...especially at the price i got it for.
Mis-matched cabinets?!
All kidding aside, give it a try with the XLS driving one cabinet per side as per the "INPUT Y" configuration.
Once cabinet levels are balanced to your liking, you can then easily dial out/in the 2x10 and gauge what it is actually bringing to the party, in real-time, while playing.
Cheers!
Thanks CharlieC. However, it is not that what I worry about, it is the distance between the bars forming the frame. None in stock here where I live. I would therefore greatly appreciate if an owner of the Nano could measure that for me precisely. Thanks.
Mis-matched cabinets?!
All kidding aside, give it a try with the XLS driving one cabinet per side as per the "INPUT Y" configuration.
Once cabinet levels are balanced to your liking, you can then easily dial out/in the 2x10 and gauge what it is actually bringing to the party, in real-time, while playing.
Cheers!
That's the plan. Thanks again for everything. I'll let ya'll know how it works out. In a few days.
Played my first gig with the Crown XLS 802 using the B3 as the power amp. Managed to get 15 minutes into the set and then the amp died on me. I have not been able to look at the amp and won't until Friday. What would cause the power amp to quit. I noticed that all the lamps came on just before it died. The guy helping out said he thought that the amp had overheated but I thought that the 802 had really powerful fans. Could it have been because the B3 signal was too 'hot' causing it to clip too much? If on Friday the amp is still working should I turn the global level down? I think that I have it at about 70 at the moment.
Cheers
Cheers
I doubt very much the B3 signal being too hot can cause your amp to die. There must have been some other cause. I do not know whether that amp is with tubes. If it is, then you must make sure to always have a load at the outlet, i.e. cabs properly connected.
Then a good amp should in general have some safety circuit and shut down if it overheats, e.g. due to insufficient air flow or ventilators do for whatever reason not work well enough to transport the heat away. Once it has sufficiently cooled down, however, the amp should work again.
If it is dead, despite being cool, then there must be something else wrong. I would then always check the fuse first. It might be blown. Replace it with the proper one (Which you need, should be marked on the amp. Compare the labelling on the blown fuse with what the amp requires. If this does not match, you may have found the culprit). Never use the wrong fuse or you risk to damage your amp. Never shorten a fuse with aluminum foil or a wire.
If all that does not help, I'm afraid your amp has to go in the repair shop.
^^^
+1 to Andreas' comments, with some additions:
I am sorry to hear of this!
Before thoughts of Class-D amp topology or reliability enter the picture, the Crown 802 is an old-school, iron heavyweight of an amp. It is completely solid-state, with massive toroidal transformers and obnoxious cooling protection. Although no longer manufactured, that series amp is known to be a proven work horse, but no electronics are immune to failure. If I had to guess, I believe this amp had help to its current state by a former owner(s), as I am guessing it was heavily used (politely-worded) and then sold for reaching its life expectancy. My apologies if I am mistaken.
Before incurring repair costs on equipment that may be long-past warranty, I would investigate the cost of a new amp that fits your budget and comes with 3+ years of worry-free warranty coverage.
Good luck!
+1 to Andreas' comments, with some additions:
I am sorry to hear of this!
Before thoughts of Class-D amp topology or reliability enter the picture, the Crown 802 is an old-school, iron heavyweight of an amp. It is completely solid-state, with massive toroidal transformers and obnoxious cooling protection. Although no longer manufactured, that series amp is known to be a proven work horse, but no electronics are immune to failure. If I had to guess, I believe this amp had help to its current state by a former owner(s), as I am guessing it was heavily used (politely-worded) and then sold for reaching its life expectancy. My apologies if I am mistaken.
Before incurring repair costs on equipment that may be long-past warranty, I would investigate the cost of a new amp that fits your budget and comes with 3+ years of worry-free warranty coverage.
Good luck!
I actually have not had a chance to check the amp as I swapped heads during the gig and then had to clear up for the next band on. Will hopefully get to see how things are on Friday as we will be in the practice room. Fingers crossed that it is still alive and kicking. The amp was new. I think that the seller has a load of these amps that he must have picked up cheap. Was in the box with all the wrapping etc. Will let you know how things go on Friday. Pity as it was sounding really good! Had a bassist from one of the other bands come up during the sound check and comment on how good the bass was sounding!!!
Hang in there and please keep us updated!
Out of curiosity, what cabinets were you using at the time of the issue and what were their impedance ratings?
The speaker that I was using was an SVT 810 at 8ohms. This is the venue's speaker. I Japan you don't really use your own cabs as it is just to difficult moving stuff around as you will more than likely use the underground trains for transport. Moving the Crown was a nightmare. 35 celcius with over 80% humidity! Will be getting my hands on the amp tomorrow. If the worst happens I found a crwon delear in Tokyo so I will be heading there to get it fixed.
It works! Had it in the practice going through two cabs. Both ampeg. Sounded great and lasted 3 hours. Only problem was feedback. It was slight but there. First tine I have had feedback from a bass rig. Is that something to watch for with a power amp? The volu
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