Don't thank me, I should thank you.
First Johno Dunn calls me the Mother Teresa of Zoom and now your kinds words.
Many thanks!
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Zoom B3 As Preamp
- Thread starter CharlieC
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First Johno Dunn calls me the Mother Teresa of Zoom and now your kinds words.
Many thanks!
I hear you, Steve, and understand as I am not an effect man, myself.
Now knowing this, I would highly-recommend an MS-60B for you instead and it would fit very nicely on your Pedaltrain Nano in place of the TU-2.
Cheers!
But how would I power my Rolls? My TU - 2 does that for me as we'll ;-)
Not only that, I have been debating trying a REDDI. That really messes up the Nano!!
But this is about the only advantage the TU-2 has over the many, many things you would gain with a MS-60B. Besides, the wall wart you need to get the power you want, should not be forgotten in this. I guess that could easily be replaced by a much better power supply such as the Godlyke Power-All PA-9S post14491062 and then you would have done a huge step ahead without much difference in bulk or weight.
Steve, to echo Andreas' previous comments, the BOSS TU series tuners, as well as a few other BOSS pedals like the NS-2 and LS-2, have the ability to power other pedals when used with BOSS special daisy-chain cable. There are other daisy-chain cable options available from other manufacturers that allow one to distribute power directly from the wall-wart power supply without the need of another pedal on the board to initiate the distribution like the TU-2 does.
With pedal power then a non-issue, an MS-60B could easily replace your TU-2 for both chromatic, drop, and alternate tuning needs. Although it does not feature a strobe mode, it is an excellent tuner that IMHO is more visible in sunlight than a TU in bright mode. Additionally, for me, the MS-60B has major first-pedal advantage over the TU as it does not send a loud pop down the signal chain when one unplugs the instrument cable from its INPUT. When under-power, the MS-60B quietly shorts its INPUT to ground when the instrument plug is removed, like a quality amp or preamp does.
Even if you have no intention to use any typical stomp effects, Zoom's amplifier and cabinet simulations alone are worth the price of admission, and IMHO, they would improve your IEM experience by greatly warming things up and providing natural tube-like compression.
At $99 USD the MS-60B cannot be beat for all the functionality it delivers in a single-stomp package, but if you are also considering a REDDI, you might need that $99 and an additional $650.
Cheers!
^^^
Here is my idea for a Zoom-based, Pedaltrain Nano!
Cheers!
I have been looking into a pedaltrain nano option and revisited some older posts. CharlieC, what device is the first in the chain (I presume, given vt bass is best last and MS-60B signal goes from right to left, right to left is the signal flow order you suggested)? I mean the Shure device on the very right of the three devices depicted. What is it?
The first device in the chain is the latest in wireless receivers from Shure, the GLXD6, that lives on a pedal board, under pedal power.
I highly-recommend you check out this fantastic new line that debuted at NAMM 2013 and is due to be released shortly.
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Cheers!
Another question for CharlieC and this fantastic thread in general. So i'd like to run my B3 into both side of my Crown XL1500. Can I do that w/o a splitter (A/B/Y Box)? I know i could daisy chain the cabs, but with the one cab being a 4ohm and one being an 8ohm, i'd rather not (although the crown is stable at 2ohm.) Am i correct in saying that running it in stereo would be better? I understand from a wattage standpoint the 4ohm cab will be getting double what the 8ohm gets, but will the dynamics be any different in stereo vs daisy chained? Ultimately i was looking for a slight boost in volume (from adding speaker surface area,) and modularity (if that's a word,) and for the price it was worth giving it a try.
I'm slowly but surely gathering a fair amount of knowledge from this thread and TB in general, but sometimes putting into action is a bit trickier. Thanks all.
I'm slowly but surely gathering a fair amount of knowledge from this thread and TB in general, but sometimes putting into action is a bit trickier. Thanks all.
Thanks for the thread support and way to go on the Crown XLS 1500!
On an interesting note, the XLS 1500 is the most powerful XLS in the short-depth and small-weight class, before both go up a slight amount with the XLS 2000. IMHO, the entire Crown XLS line is fantastic and worthy of consideration when shopping for power amplifiers.
With your 2 cabs of mis-matched impedence, your best bet may be to utilize both sides of the amp with Channel 1 for the 8-ohm cab and Channel 2 for the 4-ohm cab, and for this I would use a hard-wired splitter on the back of the XLS 1500. Run a single 1/4" cable from the B3's L/MONO out to the rear of the XLS and then split the signal into two 1/4" feeds via a Y-cable. Should you not have or want to use a splitter, simply feed two 1/4" lines from the B3 to Channels 1 and 2 instead.
If only both cabinets were 8-ohms then this would have been the perfect opportunity to run in bridged-mono mode with the least amount of cabling and maximum benefit.
Cheers!
So I can just use the R and L/Mono outputs? One to each side of the amp? Those will both be effected signals right. It's only the XLR output that can/will give a completely clean signal.
Or a Y cable. I'd have to pick one of those up. Can you recommend a specific one or brand?
In retrospect I wish my main cab was an 8ohm. Ya live ya learn I guess, but at least I have options.
Thanks again.
I personally would take a chance on this Y-cable ...
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... but in all honesty I would pursue use of only one of your cabs, hopefully one is a 4 x 10, and run in bridge-mono mode
Please keep us posted!
The XLS1500 has a Y input mode. Connect to channel A and choose Y inpit. Splits the signal internally
I will admit, I have not read all of the threads on the ZOOM but has anyone encountered any latency with the Zoom? I have noticed when i switch from an Active bass from a Passive Bass there is just a bit of lag. I am hoping it is just the cord and that I don't have to make adjustments on the fly.
Could you expand on this? A quick how-to would be great. I just picked up the crown and have not learned the in's and out's (no pun intended,) of how to use it all to it's full extent yet.
Is an external option as in a way to do it on the rear panel or is it an option within the front display?
Would this option allow me to control the second cab with the Ch.2 knob?
I'll look into that splitter. Hopefully GC has something like that in stock so i don't have to buy online.
But no, my main cab is a 2x12 rated at 600w which is generally fine if I have PA support. If not i have to basically crank the level knob for the one cab to compete with the guitarist. With the possibility of an outdoor gig with no PA support looming, I was looking to add a little bit of oomph with the second cab and/or not have to crank the 2x12 all the time. Oh the joys of being in rock/metal band.
I have noticed no issues latency wise using an active or passive bass. Hopefully it's just a cable. Good luck.
Thanks CharlieC, most helpful (as usual)!
Besides I am using the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] and I am very happy with it. To save space on the top I am considering to put the stompbox like wireless receiver RXS06 of the G30 set underneath the Pedaltrain Nano. Can anyone who owns the Pedaltrain Nano tell me what the exact distance is between the two parallel bars on the bottom of the Nano? The RXS06 is not high and would for sure fit underneath the Nano in that respect. I guess this from what I could find on the internet, i.e. setup similar to putting a power supply such as the Invalid Link Removed underneath the Nano or this Invalid Link Removed with a Fuel Tank Junior. However, the G30 RXS06 width is 8 cm (3.15 inch) and the output cable plugs into its side, i.e. adds to the 8cm and I fear it might get tight there. Can anyone help me?
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