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Zoom B3 As Preamp

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While I was really impressed running my B3 direct, lately I have been really disappointed !
Last night I realized somehow I had the pre/post button selected to pre this out puts the signal before the FX.
Duh!!!!

sometimes I do stupid things, and sometimes I realize that it was stupid!

Almost always now, I use my own external DI box for XLR out between the B3's L/MONO 1/4" out and my power amp for a few reasons:

1. It eliminates the accidental PRE/POST setting

2. Third-party FOH sound guys will be less wary if they see a real DI box

3. As the B3's XLR out is very hot when the B3 is driving a power amp via 1/4" out, I can engage the DI box's -20dB pad and tame the signal
 
The DI works fine for me as I run ampless in the same venue every week, so I know that the levels are perfect and so do the PA guys (it's actually the PA team leader's B3 I'm using at the moment).

But yeah, I've played a whole set with the pre button on before!
 
I typically don't do this, but 'tis the season of giving :-)

Tweak EQ to taste/room

Cheers!

rock_mon.gif

I dig a lot the BB preamp too.
The drive is very nice and effective (I love the way it sounds on the highs : it adds a lot of presence) and according to the way you set gain you can achieve many different tones.

We may have similar sounds :) (except that I prefer lighter picks. Doesn't sound as fat as the thick ones, but more soft for the hand when I play fast tunes)

I just prefered to put back my VT bass instead of the SVT model because I couldn't find the perfect way to match the sim cab and my amp.
Without cab sim : too much high end (no roll off of the highs). With it I can't dial well with the midscoop. But it's due mainly to the fact that I plug my B3 in a bass amp with a bass speaker, so not to a system with a flat response.
And the VT, that I set with a very light drive, cuts the trebles above 5 kHZ (kind of speaker sim, but without big dip in the mids) -> the BB sounds awesome.

I am making some tries with the Tube Screamer because I think it's capable of great tones, but I still have problems to keep a good low end with it and to reduce in the good way the boost in the mids (on its own I find it sounding very very honky).

Anyway, I made 3 patches with different levels of gain on the BB preamp, coupled to the parametric to manage the low lows cut if the room needs it + the Booster.
Like that I can cover my main needs, and I'm happy : big big sound !!!

I was so happy with my tone that yesterday I closed my eyes while we were playing (just to listen) and almost fell because my feet get trapped in the cables lying on the floor :D
 
Funk slap you say? The easy answer is to load up the Marcus Miller patch, and tweak it to your taste. There's also a slap patch, but it's way too sparkly up top and thin in the middle to serve as a starting point for my taste.

Thanks, I tried that patch and it did the job well. My one problem was pressing a wrong button or two and losing the settings for the EQ pedal on that patch. Would anyone be able to let me know what the default setting is? I think it's patch F2.
 
Thank you! I've got the B3 with me for the week so I'll fix it tonight. I only lost the EQ so I'll just change that manually - but it's a good lesson to back the patches up when I get my own B3.

You can download the stock patch set from zoom using the edit & share software and then drop them back into your B3 one by one, so it's not something you need to be massively paranoid about though....
 
Push It Real Good

The amp models in the B3 and MS-60B really come alive with healthy input signals.

The Xotic RC Booster simulation is just the ticket to help get you there should your bass output require a clean push. Place it right before your favorite amp model and you may be tempted to leave it on full-time.

rc_boost.jpg
 
Tube Dirt Addition

As good as they are, the amp models in the B3 and MS-60B saturate and compress well, but none really provide the expected breakup at high gain.

The Xotic BB Preamp simulation and the settings I suggest will give good dirt, and with the 50% Blend value, your original tone and string attack will not get lost in a sloppy mess. Place it right before your favorite amp model.

bb_pre.jpg
 
Firstly, thank you to you all for the various threads regarding the B3, especially this one! I have never learned so much about a pedal whilst at work!

If I am permitted, I have a question that I would like to ask the Zoom Gurus, as I have a few concerts coming up (starting next week) and I really need to spend the little time I have before the concert working on patches rather than set up.

I am thinking of doing the following:

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So I would be permanantly sending a signal to the B2, to use as a tuner (always muted), and the A/B pedal would let me choose between Bass direct into B3 or switch to the output of B2, which would mute, but I could also add an extra effect from the B2 by unmuting.

I posted this in another thread, but it was pointed out that I may have issues with tone and vol loss by splitting the signal, especially when using a passive bass (I use both).

If I used the B2 route in bypass mode when plugging in a passive bass, would this save the tone/vol issues, bringing it up to active level?

I was thinking of building a pedal like this:

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The other alternative that crosses my mind would be to use the XLR out to FOH, the mono/L to my rig (powered amp>pa cab+sub) and the R output to the Zoom B2 for an always active tuner, but that limits the functionality of the B2, and means that to mute while tuning I would have to use the B3 tuner anyway.

Any and all input would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
My main reason is so I have the tuner always on (even during playing).

My other thought was that it would give me an extra "effect" from the B2 when wanted. But if this is a bad idea, I will just leave the B2 unused.
 
My main reason is so I have the tuner always on (even during playing).

My other thought was that it would give me an extra "effect" from the B2 when wanted. But if this is a bad idea, I will just leave the B2 unused.

Welcome, JACink!

I would highly suggest you leave the B2 unused, but if you absolutely needed the always-on tuner, I would try wiring from Bass to B2 (Bypassed) and then to the B3, eliminating the Y-splitter and custom foot switch.

Cheers!
 
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