Zoom Owners' Club!

[OldShark]

For the B1Xon I went the other way and enhanced it with several effects of the other Zoom multi FXes of the same generation (G1xon, MS60B etc.) in order to play around with my guitars.
This might also be possible with the G3 in case the effects do not work well enough for bass... But of course getting familiar with all those effects and their many parameters is a real rabbit hole...

 

[Wannabebass]

I have the cheaper version G1x from that era of zoom and still use it all the time as guitar voiced effects can still be very useful for creating textures for bass although I mainly use it with guitar, piccolo and steel guitar. For a while I was running a stereo set up with the neck pickup going to a B2.1u and the bridge going to the G1X into a pair of small amps giving me lots of possibilities, oh the energy I once had. One drawback with a guitar voiced multi is there is often not the chance to blend a clean or dry sound with the effect which is very helpful to keep lows, punch and note clarity but with careful use you can still get usable tones.
My method was to create a basic sound patch that was pleasing and then add to that as desired adding modulation, envelopes, pitch shifters plus reverb and delay to fit a particular song or sound.

Thank you, bassbrad, I will keep that in mind!

 

[Wannabebass]

For the B1Xon I went the other way and enhanced it with several effects of the other Zoom multi FXes of the same generation (G1xon, MS60B etc.) in order to play around with my guitars.
This might also be possible with the G3 in case the effects do not work well enough for bass... But of course getting familiar with all those effects and their many parameters is a real rabbit hole...

That might well be my next question. I understand you can import patches (a group of effects with set parameters chained together, in my understanding) but can you import different effects from outside, i.e. some bass-specific effects, or are you just limited to manipulating the effects that are on the unit now?
a rabbit hole beckons....

 

[Eli_Kyiv]

That might well be my next question. I understand you can import patches (a group of effects with set parameters chained together, in my understanding) but can you import different effects from outside, i.e. some bass-specific effects, or are you just limited to manipulating the effects that are on the unit now?
a rabbit hole beckons....

Looks like you can do it on G3x. Start here: GitHub - Barsik-Barbosik/Zoom-Firmware-Editor

 

[Wfrance3]

Just wanted to see if anyone knew what "world class" direct boxes Zoom used as models for their B2.

I have the B2, and like what it does. Just curios what "real world" DI boxes they used to model the DIs on the B2...

• Tube 1: Rich harmonics and thick low frequencies
• Tube 2: Clear attack and tight low frequencies
• Tube 3: Clear and glossy sound
• Solid State 1: Moderate compression and sharp tones
• Solid State 2: Clear tone and little distortion
• Solid State 3: Elevated mids and low treble to replicate the Motown sound

Apart from the above, this info doesn't seem to be documented...

 

[stubbsonic]

Just wanted to see if anyone knew what "world class" direct boxes Zoom used as models for their B2.
Apart from the above, this info doesn't seem to be documented...

You are correct. The DI's that are being modeled are NOT documented anywhere. So we are left to guess. The differences between the DI's (and no DI at all) seem VERY subtle to me (I'm not hearing any difference myself)-- so I expect we're looking at transparent DI's as opposed to the kinds that are meant had more distortion (like the SansAmp, or others that are already in the pre-amps list).

I consulted with a popular LLM robot, and was given the following list of DI's that it deems popular with bass players. Is it possible that some of these are "suspects"--??

Tube-Based DI Boxes:​

1. Avalon U5
   • Known for its pristine, hi-fi sound with detailed clarity and a rich low end.
   • Often used in studios and live settings for bass and acoustic instruments.
2. Ampeg SVT-DI
   • Offers a warm, classic Ampeg tone with the character of their tube amplifiers.
   • Great for players seeking vintage, punchy bass sounds.
3. REDDI Tube DI
   • Produced by A-Designs, it's famous for its lush, harmonically rich tube tone.
   • Designed to emulate the classic Ampeg B-15 amp sound.
4. Altec Lansing 1567A
   • A vintage tube DI used in older recordings, known for its unique warmth and color.
   • Rarely seen today but influential in shaping early bass sounds.
5. Telefunken V72/76
   • Originally preamps, these have been adapted for DI use, providing vintage tube warmth and depth.

---

Solid-State DI Boxes​

1. Radial JDI
   • A passive DI that uses a Jensen transformer for transparent and noise-free performance.
   • Highly durable, it's a go-to for both studio and stage use.
2. Radial J48
   • An active DI known for its high headroom and clarity.
   • Works exceptionally well with active basses and long cable runs.
3. Countryman Type 85
   • A classic active DI box with a warm, natural tone.
   • Widely used for bass and acoustic instruments, especially in live environments.
4. SansAmp Bass Driver DI
   • A versatile DI with built-in amp simulation and tone shaping controls.
   • Known for emulating classic tube amp tones, making it a favorite for live and recording setups.
5. Aguilar Tone Hammer
   • Combines a DI with preamp functionality for tone shaping.
   • Popular among bass players for its warm, punchy sound and versatility.
6. BSS AR-133
   • A reliable and affordable active DI often found in live sound setups.
   • Provides a clean, transparent signal.

---

 

[InkCow]

I don’t know which is supposed to be which (I also have B2 Four), but I suspect that the tube ones might include the Reddi, Khan, and/or Noble (I use #3, FWIW) and the solid state might include a Countryman 85 and a Neve? The one with “a little distortion” being a SansAmp would be a reasonable guess. A little odd given that it’s one of the preamp options though.

 

[stubbsonic]

I'm considering replacing my B2-Four with the Zoom CDR-70+. I don't care about the amp sims, my amp already has a good DI out. The CDR has a closer FX selection to what I'd want/need than the MS, and the CDR runs on batteries.

I RARELY use drives on gigs, but I should probably have access to one. The first question is can you sort of hack/side-load modules from the MS-60B+? If not, can the Drive Echo be used as a decent general purpose light drive (echos turned off)?

I'm not opposed to using a 2nd pedal for drive, but since I rarely need it, I was hoping to fudge it.

 

[GotGroove]

I'm considering replacing my B2-Four with the Zoom CDR-70+. I don't care about the amp sims, my amp already has a good DI out. The CDR has a closer FX selection to what I'd want/need than the MS, and the CDR runs on batteries.

I RARELY use drives on gigs, but I should probably have access to one. The first question is can you sort of hack/side-load modules from the MS-60B+? If not, can the Drive Echo be used as a decent general purpose light drive (echos turned off)?

I'm not opposed to using a 2nd pedal for drive, but since I rarely need it, I was hoping to fudge it.

I'm in the opposite boat. I'd love to try some of the CDR70+ effects on my 60+. I wouldn't kick out all the amp sims (I'm not hauling my amp to every show), but there's enough drives and comps I don't need to make room for the shimmer, organ and rotator effects and perhaps a few others from the 70+. Not that I'd use them daily, but they are fun to play/compose with even if they don't have a blend.

As for hacking the firmware, the only software I know of that does it properly (and is reversible) is the Zoom effects manager but it's not updated to the + series. You can try sending the guys/gals an email at [email protected] and see if there are plans for an update. If you get a reply, please share. I asked them when the + series was first announced and they weren't sure yet. The new editor being IOS only probably doesn't help extracting the effects. If they're not planning an update, we might end up doing the exact opposite: you buy the 60B+ and I'll get the 70CDR+

PS: in case it's a factor, the 60+ also runs on batteries. The entire + range does.

 

[stubbsonic]

It's possible that the Drive Echo might do what I need, but it's hard to say. There aren't any demos specifically around using as drive only, and for bass.

Yea, the B2-Four can run on a powerbank, but when I tried it didn't last long-- even with a really burly powerbank. Makes no sense why, considering the current draw. The smaller pedal and AA cell operation are a plus (pardon the pun?)

I guess I can see if the EP Drive in the B2 Four is an indication.

 

[InkCow]

Yea, the B2-Four can run on a powerbank

@GotGroove meant that the MS60B+ could also run from batteries, not the B2 Four. But the MS60B+ and the B2 Four are basically the same pedal and would give you the drive options from the B2 Four is a smaller pedal sized enclosure.

 

[bassbrad]

@stubbsonic the CDR and CDR+ have so many more options for modulation, delays and Reverbs that it opens a lot of creative and fun options that are not on the 60/60+offerings. OTOH comps and amps are much improved on the 60B+.

I am digging the MS60B+ and CDR+ well enough only caveat is needing an iOS device for editing control [no Android or PC option ]. Both the CDR+ and 60B+ work well on a power bank. I am using a 60B+ as a standalone unit on a power bank that also powers a Zoom Q2HD and iPad Air 2.

 

[stubbsonic]

@GotGroove meant that the MS60B+ could also run from batteries, not the B2 Four. But the MS60B+ and the B2 Four are basically the same pedal and would give you the drive options from the B2 Four is a smaller pedal sized enclosure.

Sorry, yea. I understood. I was unclear. I know all the stomp+ series are battery powered.

My reason for leaning toward the CDR-70+ vs the MS-60B+ is that I never need the amp sims, rarely use drive, and would enjoy having some more reverb and mod options.

Probably I'll just stick with the B2-Four. Maybe I can figure out what's going on with the powerbank draw.

 

[GotGroove]

Probably I'll just stick with the B2-Four. Maybe I can figure out what's going on with the powerbank draw.

that might be worth it. I don't know what you meant by the b2 'not lasting long' on a powerbank, but my B6, which also runs on 500mA, runs fine on a 10K mA powerbank and that easily last me an entire evening of playing. I've done full shows this way and still have 25% of juice left on the powerbank afterwards. Of course, I don't have every patch filled to the brim. Only some creative synth patches are maxed out, but still. Depending on how much effects you have active It should last you at least 3-4 hours I'd think. That said, out of habit I still have a old-fashioned power supply in my bag. Better safe than sorry.

The 60B+ doesn't even begin to drain the same powerbank. 20-25% on an evening perhaps? If I get the 70+ I intend to run them both from the same powerbank if possible.

 

[stubbsonic]

Thanks, yea, I'm testing it now, and it took 15 minutes to drop 1%, using USB-C to USB-C on the powerbank. That seems good.

The CDR+ has 6 slots and a more useful selection of FX for my needs. However, the B2 Four makes it easier (even possible) to switch patches with my feet. Seems like the CDR+ is pretty dumb with regard to the button layout for patch switching.

I've released my G.A.S. for now.

Thanks all.

 

[coyoteboy]

Quick check-in. MS+ have steel bottom plates and work well with neo-d magnets and my HoleyBoard. I had been using Alien tape, this is *much* better.

 

[stubbsonic]

For the MS+ series, it would be good if the patch switching was on the lower two buttons, rather than the upper two. I just sent a support request to Zoom, asking that they update the firmware to add a setting option: "SWAP UPPPER/LOWER BUTTONS"

At first I was thinking that using some Sugru® to build up raised bumps on the upper buttons could make hitting them a little easier. Not sure if that could work. Then I was thinking that perhaps some little hinged attachments could be connected to the pedal. Basically, it would be a pair of extended swiveling arms where you press the arm with your foot and the arm presses the button. I'm sure it will work, but it sort of defeats the compactness.

 

[bassbrad]

For the MS+ series, it would be good if the patch switching was on the lower two buttons, rather than the upper two. I just sent a support request to Zoom, asking that they update the firmware to add a setting option: "SWAP UPPPER/LOWER BUTTONS"

At first I was thinking that using some Sugru® to build up raised bumps on the upper buttons could make hitting them a little easier. Not sure if that could work. Then I was thinking that perhaps some little hinged attachments could be connected to the pedal. Basically, it would be a pair of extended swiveling arms where you press the arm with your foot and the arm presses the button. I'm sure it will work, but it sort of defeats the compactness.

Several years ago there was a user that did just that winged attachment for the older MS pedals, it was an early print job. l have a couple somewhere in all my mess.

I bet someone like @Pedalnetics could work up something better these days.

 

[GotGroove]

For the MS+ series, it would be good if the patch switching was on the lower two buttons, rather than the upper two. I just sent a support request to Zoom, asking that they update the firmware to add a setting option: "SWAP UPPPER/LOWER BUTTONS"

Yup. that's basically my only gripe with them. My feet are just too large for easy operating the top buttons or I'm just too dam clumsy. It's not impossible, just not very quick and comfortable for me. Oh, and the missing patch cycle feature from the old model. That would make things so much easier for when it's my only pedal on last minute gigs. But I think Zoom passed that station.

For what it's worth, I asked them about the ability to switch the buttons in a newer firmware update when I bought mine in June/July. The reply I got basically came down to 'no and there are no plans for it either'. But it can't hurt asking. If more people ask, they might eventually consider it . Keep us posted when you get a reply

I bet someone like @Pedalnetics could work up something better these days.

If they can and ship to Europe for a fair price I might be interested.

 

[stubbsonic]

Zoom's approach to user-inputs is a bit sloppy lately. A cursor diamond, with carefully-designed foot access would have made the user experience so much nicer.

Even their R4 Multitrack has a pair of up/down buttons that are side-by-side on the main interface. Not a crime; but I'm also still really disappointed at the R4's lack of level control ('because with 32-float you don't need it") which means you can't record any percussion without signal clipping. Lame.

Whoever was beta testing MS+ prototypes, was playing barefoot, and pushing buttons with their big toe. I don't judge, but we can't all be dogs-out on gigs. Also, patch changing requires careful timing. I can't just hover there with my stupid big toe, like an idiot.

The patch cycle (A, B, C... ) feature was essential when I used an older MS pedal.

Zoom can and will dismiss these issues as nit-picking; and it's a safe bet they won't fix any of this. Yes, they are the best of the entry-level multi-FX. But they've doubled down on the hard-to-use, counter-intuitive, chonky buttons.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, you have Fractal, with best-in-class FX-- and you can program those 3 buttons (and 4 external buttons) to do anything.