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Frank Kreber said:

Hello Sam versus,

I got them both a few weeks ago… or is your question addressed to stingray 69?

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If it's for me, I have since moved the bass along (always gear chasing). But for the record, this is one I should have kept, I do regret it - and I may yet purchase one back. It's an amazing instrument on all levels.

Hi
I noticed you are getting a click or artifact in your latest demos. Thought I would let you know.
Thank you for the demos!
Brent

Not sure why the switch is required. Maybe I am missing something?

Modern audio gear normally use impedance bridging. This means the output impedance of the preamp is 1/10 or less of the input impedance of the device it is plugged into. The idea is the load impedance is so high that it is viewed by the preamp as open circuit. With impedance loading, it should not be a problem to drive more than one device with no volume drop.

I don't see how the second diagram could possibly resolve the volume drop issue. If I understand what you have done, the only difference is the first diagram only switches the hot, which should not be necessary. The second diagram switches the hot and the ground. With the second output selected, both circuits are electrically the same. One output is driving two loads.

So I suspect the source of the volume drop has not been identified.

AFAIK both diagrams are functionally identical to this when the second output is turned on.



Unless you need the ability to toggle the second jack on and off for different parts of the show, I would eliminate the switch.

For future reference if someone has the same issue…

My endpin tightening screw broke probably because of delicate handling by airport crew... The bass was in a Nanuk 996 case but it seems that something went wrong anyway. Fortunately, someone had duct tape so I was able to play... even if it took me 20 minutes to get the tape off the post after the gig...

when I got home, I tried to drill a hole and use a screw extractor but it didn't work. Went ahead with a dremmel with a metal cutting wheel just deep enough to be able to use a flathead screwdriver. It worked and the threading is intact.

Threading size is M6. I bought a bolt and 3d printed a star knob and I'm now back in business.

I just found out that a drum wing nut with M6 thread may also work.

I will now have a spare in my bag just in case...

And they lived happily ever after...

Hi, today Valeton released a firmware update for some of their multi-effects units, including access to NAM2. Has anyone tested it yet? Any first impressions? How does it sound with bass? Any noticeable latency, bugs, or DSP limitations?

Gutted to hear this. I saw a comment on a Sixpence video saying that ‘the bassist’ had died recently and my heart dropped. He always had a real working pro’s perspective worth listening to and he came across as a lovely friendly guy. Far too young, I’ll miss seeing him around here.

sevi said:

Hi, does anyone still have the B6 firmware v2.0 file (B6SYS_v200.ZUF)?
Zoom removed it from their site and I need it for the new effects.

Thanks!

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A little late top the party...new B6 owner here. I was told by someone that there was a v2.X firmware upgrade but they yanked it...he wasn't sure why. I've looked using my best google-fu and nada...weird. Maybe it was bricking the B6's? I dunno.

WouldULikeSomeE said:

Do you happen to know where someone can order one outside of Japan? Couldn't find anything on their website. It could just be the Seymour Duncan pups they use for the 5 string, but I liked how they sounded in demos, they had very strong B strings and a really nice, clanky aggressive tone, they're still ultimately jazz basses, but considering they're passive, I was surprised at how they sound compared to other passive models

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You can get in touch with their dealers, I recommend Miki gakki bass side Osaka, they speak English and will deliver overseas, they in fact have a few in stock right now but you can ask them if they have a slot available for order.

Amazon. I was not a Prime member for years, and now have been a Prime member for the past several. The quality of their customer support (in my experience) was equally above and beyond regardless of my paid status.

Daniel B5 said:

Are you talking about 6ix String | Canada’s First Guitar String Manufacturer ?First I've heard of them, and I guess they just launched! Guitar, mandolin, and banjo listed so far... given the name, I guess only extended-range basses need apply

Seriously, though, it's great to see another company manufacturing strings here!

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Yes

The Solaris Delay PCB's are available in the C2CE shop now if anyone wants to try one out, the build doc is available along with the drill files as well but the artwork is not up yet for the box.

I own two. Both 5 string. One fretted, one fretless. I play one of them every day. Simply a phenomenal instrument. The low B brings it closer in line with a traditional bass. I would say, however, that calling it a unique instrument rather than a microbass is quite reasonable. I find it allows me to sit in my backyard in the evening and have a conversation with others while also playing and getting a finger workout - guitars made me think too much to communicate and a full size bass seems to create a "barrier" and I felt was impolite. These guys are truly unobtrusive. Superb for travel. Sounds awesome with an octaver as well.

edwinhurwitz said:

I love both of them! I also equate Phil Lesh to Steve Swallow, to a degree. Born within months of each other, both of them play or played hollow bodied basses with a pick with a very melodic style.

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Interestingly to me, Carles Benavente plays a 5 string semi-acoustic Jerzy Drozd bass with a pick, just like Steve Swallow on his Citron and they both use EADGC tuning.
The other interesting thing to me is that both of those basses are in the “rather expensive’ category

Thanks for posting @DanAdams! I just scooped up a 115 neo for $499 w/ free shipping. That’s around $200 cheaper than a used one. Stupid crazy deal.

Another gorgeous day for a recovery ride along the River.

Train rails & bike trails.


The River is high but receding after a few days of dry weather.


The Ascent, the coolest building in all of Kentucky, and it's in my home town.

Caught a few minutes of "gingerbread boy" during the stream, as I was packing up to go to a jam yesterday. Mr Carter is sounding really good!

Eli_Kyiv said:

View attachment 7564688

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Even though the knob isn’t visible from this angle, clearly it’s a gorgeous example of a 62 stratabone as seen in post #7698. One of Leo’s best designs. Very few were made. Be careful, as the factory continued using 62 knobs into late 63 and 63s are often identified as a 62 due to this. Recent forgeries of the original 62 get the gold paint color on the word “VOLUME” on the knob slightly off, so watch for that.

Don Kasper said:

Are you claiming that I "...have some 'splaining to do?"
(Yes. I know the difference between a Merman and a Mertz!)
I AM OLD...and it is 100* F. outside today and my brain is overcooked.
Thanks AG!

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“To the moon, Alice!” (Showing my age!).

Passinwind said:

In the US you could look at Underhill for something similar: Bass Guitar Preamps | Underhill Bass Guitars

The maker is a member here on TB, @bowthing. Really good guy, as is Jerry at JTEX. I'm a big fan of resonant LPF EQ for fretless bass, but as usual I just roll my own.

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Thanks for the referral- I’m an ignoramus when it comes to this stuff, pretty much always been a passive p bass guy. I’ll read up on it and reach out to him.

I've had both and here is my take. TLDR Fender Pour Over Filter is a clear winner in my mind.

Maestro Agena is a band pass filter with 2 frequency settings, while band pass is interesting on guitar and keys it is a bit of a frustration on bass where a Low Pass Filter works so much better since it keeps the low or fundamental part of the signal with the swish on top. Ultimately this is one pedal that was here and gone pretty quickly as if I want a band pass I will reach for a Seamoon Funk Machine.

Fender Pour Over Filter is a wide ranging filter that can be a bit of a challenge to tune in because of it's full spectrum nature and multiple modes ~ on the plus side there is a built in fuzz circuit and it has lp/ bp/hp + up/down modes for extra versatility. Con it's fairly big and heavy on the plus side it looks really cool with the lighted knob pointers and big jewel and operated well on a 9v battery. Another plus is the output volume control, a feature more envelope pedals need it's only missing a wet/dry blend that would make it stellar. I use this one quite a bit but mostly on guitar and keys but it is very cool on bass once you find the sweet spot to match your bass and playing.

WOW I can't believe SW told you that. This confirms a MAJOR LaBella manufacturing problem. Something I have been experiencing for years.

See my reply in the other LaBella thread. There's only one way to do it if you must have LaBella, and it ain't pretty.

No strings are like LaBella though. They are the best sounding flats by a longshot. Since you play thicker gauges, maybe try the medium Pinos. They are very close to LaBella, as are DR (supposedly). Optima RB flats, Optima Chromes, and some Dogals are also somewhat similar.

After I read that, I wondered about rewiring the switch so that the 3rd position is both pickup in series.

I'm building a 1951 Precision using a WD ash body & MIM Fender neck. I need to make a pickguard with a phenolic (Bakelite) sheet. Thinking I'll use my electric scroll saw with a fine 24 teeth per inch blade (hoping the material won't shatter). The drum sander attached to my drill press for final shaping, and not sure how to round over the edges that need it. Thinking the paper template will work? I'll spray it with clear lacquer when it is finished.