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Good Bass for Slapping ?

Not sure. I'm often amazed that people use certain basses but do not review it in the band context. I hear this a lot.

On regular video reviews of gigs..on simple phone devices, it can be quite obvious that a certain bass doesn't work.
Sure, it sounds ok/pretty decent as a standalone sound but I have active J5's that, despite being a great bass, and sound good, just do not sit as well as they could.
Sometimes, it is minute eq on that particular song but also it can be just not the right bass.

This is the reason I'm selling some otherwise great basses.
The acid test is 'wouldn't be picked on a session' but not right on the gig either.

Yorushika Bass Tone

Sorry about that. I viewed the page in an incognito/private window and it worked without problem. A normal window gives the membership plan page. Here's the info from the site:

BASS 
Fender/Custom Shop Custom Classic Jazz Bass
Fender /American Professional Precision Bass(プレベの音が欲しいとき)

AMPLIFIER 
TRICKFISH/BULLHEAD1K(アンプ・ヘッド)
Vanderkley Amplification/210MT(キャビネット)
Vanderkley Amplification/112MT(キャビネット)
Acme Audio/Motown D.I.(DI)

EFFECTS 
Darkglass Electronics/MICROTUBES B7K(プリアンプ)
ORANGE/Bass Butler(プリアンプ)
BOSS/BC-1X Bass Comp(コンプレッサー)
SUMO STOMP/SUMO TRON(エンヴェロープ・フィルター)
Electro-Harmonix/Micro POG(オクターバー)

Tetsuo Sakurai Signature Yamaha: TRB SII

The Tetsuo Sakurai Signature TRB-SII model was only for the Japanese domestic market and made in a super small number. Same with its predecessor, the TRB-S. You’ll pretty much never see either model for sale these days because of how rare they are now over 20+ years later.

So…funny story about this exact bass that is in the photos. I won the auction for it twice. And yet, I still do not have the instrument.

I’ve been looking nonstop for a TRB-SII for over a year now. Constantly checking all over the internet on a weekly or sometimes daily basis, setting up Google notifications for keywords in English and Japanese, etc. I even made a post here on the TalkBass forum as well as numerous other forums and groups indicating exactly what I was looking for.

So, this same TRB-SII in the photos on the post popped up for sale close to two weeks ago for the first time. (The auction listing is where this Meisam person acquired the photos and then subsequently made his post that the OP screenshotted on his phone.) I got in touch with the proxy buyer service that I use to help me make purchases in Japan; and after six days of waiting, I won the auction for the bass at a killer price. However, for some unknown reason, the seller cancelled all bids and scrapped the listing in its final minute(s). I was operating under the assumption that the seller did this because he did not get the ideal price that he had in mind and wanted for the bass.

A few hours later, the bass was relisted. And again, I got in touch with my proxy buyer and my bid was placed. Six days pass, and I watch the price rapidly skyrocket to over ¥150,000 higher than what the ending (sold) price was when I had won the auction the first time. It was immediately fishy to me because: 1.) you don’t see auctions (even in Japan) skyrocket that quickly, and 2.) I began to suspect that someone (possibly the seller) was operating a shell/secondary account to place bids and artificially inflate the price of the bass. The first time it was listed, it barely got any bids (like maybe 10?) before the bids were cancelled by the seller and the listing scrapped. The second time it was listed, it got over 60 bids. Again, it just seemed fishy.

So, at the end of the six days, I am alerted by my proxy buyer that I lost the auction. I checked to see what the sold price was, and I was shocked to discover that it was lower (yes, lower) than what my max bid for the item was. Apparently, the proxy buyer had screwed up. I don’t know how. I don’t know why. But they are refusing to accept responsibility stating that my max bid wasn’t enough when domestic taxes and domestic shipping was factored in. However, I had included an allocation of additional cash to cover all of that. And again, my max bid was higher than the sold price of the listing. I had everything covered from my end financially as the intended buyer.

So now, I’m livid. Like just unbelievably furious. I am left with a proxy buying service who refuses to take accountability for their mistake; and their mistake (or excuse, or denial of facts, or whatever) has now cost me the bass that I’ve been searching high and low nonstop for. It was right there within my grasp twice. I won it fair and square twice. And yet, I have no instrument heading my way. This whole fiasco just sucks. And I had better get my money refunded.

As a closing note: if anyone here is willing to assist me in my continued search for a TRB-SII model (or if anyone has a contact in Japan who could potentially assist me), then I’d be truly grateful.
hello, still looking?
I'm sending you dm.. please check. thx

Strings without silks look unfinished to me

most of my basses have strings with silk ends. my favourite of all is the GHS silk, because is the only brand that ALWAYS have silk at the same exact length.

with Rotosound, there can be even a centimeter in difference:

look, the A string is shorter:


another example, with the D string shorter:


Rotosound RS77LD:


sometimes they match:


this is probably the worst:



my only bass without silk is the one with Elixis strings.
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Manually make a long-scale light-gauge Rotosound 77 set

the actual problem with Rotosound 77 is that they are labeled as 45-65-85-105 and 40-60-80-100, but they are actually 50-70-85-105 and 45-65-80-100

the LE set is 55, enormous G string.

this is why their sets always feel heavy, even when the gauge is "small". I opened a topic about it years ago.

another example: the "45" G string in the Swing66 sets is a 48, the "40" in the SM66 set is a 45, and the "43" of the BS66 set is still a 45 :D
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Inside The Secret Underground Laboratory

Should I even ask what stereo system you listen to? :)

Hah! Surprisingly enough, I never really got into fancy high-end audio gear. Even though, in my engineering career, I helped develop some very exotic speaker systems and speaker cabinets. And I also spent some years building and running sound systems for rock bands, and components in a few top recording studios. I'm pretty good with the mechanical side of audio systems.

But I've never been fascinated with "perfect" sound systems for my shop. I like to have music running in the background in my shop as I work. I do not like podcasts or talk shows. That interferes with my thinking. My "stereo system" these days is Spotify on my main computer, feeding into a cheap solid state automotive stereo amp module. Feeding a pair of filthy old bookshelf speakers. As long as the system doesn't have any serious distortion or buzz, that's fine with me. I adjust the Bass and Treble knobs on the amp to get the EQ curve about right. And the Volume isn't very loud.

What music do I listen to? Mostly bluegrass, the more modern lively kind with good harmony singing. Also, full Acapella bands like Home Free. Some Nashville Country. Some classic prog rock like Rush and Yes; some classic metal like Queensryche. Some historic Cowboy music, some Ragtime Piano.

My own musical outlet these days is a trio of old grey-haired geezers called the Bakery Boys. We perform every Saturday afternoon it the Geissner Winery here in Fillmore, CA. All three of us sing and play instruments. I sing baritone leads and bass harmonies, and play harmonicas. And yes, I do have a Bass Harmonica in my collection. I usually sing lead on a group of classic cowboy songs by Gene Autry and Roy Rogers. While wearing a black cowboy hat, of course.

The Warwick Gnome 600 is unarguably the best value Class D head in the world.

You will need to be aware of level when using the DI output on the Platinum Pro, it’s not a full +4dBu line level output so some balanced inputs may not have enough sensitivity. Same applies to generating a balanced signal off of your bass.

Balanced signals may not be any quieter than unbalanced, it depends on a lot of factors beyond your control. They can also be noisier in some instances. Fixating on balanced inputs will greatly limit your options and overlook a lot of good options.

Stanley Clarke & Stewart Copeland: School Days

Both Animal Logic albums are terrific. Deborah Holland has gone on to release multiple solo albums over the years, all good. Personally, I like the songs on the first album (dogs) a little more, but the second (polar bears) has looser arrangements with more space for solos.

I like almost everything from Stanley Clarke. Have listened to Animal Logic a few times trying to like it. But it doesn’t jell with me. Any specific songs that you can recommend? So I can give it another shot.

Standel Amps

Here are a couple of pictures of the Standel amp that I bought used in the 70's that I used as a guitar amp (this was before I discovered the bass, please forgive my youthful indiscretion ;))

The cab is an Artist 30 that has 2 15"speakers and it says 140w on the back plate - it is a sealed cab so I can't tell the speakers, I think they may be JBL. The pre-amp is a MC II G that is rated at 3 watts. The serial numbers both start with 69 so I assume that it was made in 1969.

Does anyone know if it was this intended as a guitar amp or a bass amp or even both?

It appears that the pedal steel players love Standel, but is this later model desirable to anyone. It is just gathering dust since there is something wrong with it, but I am also wondering what its value might be if fixed.


View attachment 246424
View attachment 246425
I had that exact amp as my first really good amp as a very young bassist. Have pictures of me playing through it. It was a great amp. Wish I could find one.

Upgrading pickups on a budget

Thanks Dan, silly (and genuine as I’m a relative newbie) question but what will the bridge make a difference to? I’m thinking of replacing the original silver one with a black one but had that in the “cosmetic” rather than “practical” bucket.
A better quality bridge is going to give you better adjustability and something like a high mass bridge usually gives you more sustain. The cosmetic change is a big component too. A lot of guys with the simple fender style bridge (same as whats on your yamaha) will upgrade to a Badass III.

Port size/type question - DIY Cab

This for sure helps me understand I'm in over my head in creating my own port channel haha. All jokes aside, it did help me build a better picture of the relationship between port/cab/speaker regarding port's function. I'll have to spend a lot more time researching to get a better grip on it, but in this case it sounds like since I'll be running a 85w tubed head, not pushing it so hard that I'll be running into chuffing issues, then I'm best off sticking with the 50 square inch baffle area per 6CF like agedhorse recommended. That's my plan going forward. It'll be a weekend project but I'll update when it's complete.

Thanks you all, for all the information and advice. I appreciate it
it's 50 square inches of PORT area.

You are so far away from chuffing issues that you can stop worrying about this too. The cabinet will handle the full 400 watts without any chuffing issues at all.

Jay Turser semi hollowbody

I was asking 275 usd for it locally. But I'm negotiable with the price. (You'll have to cover the shipping fees. I'm in western PA) I'll get some new pictures in the morning for you. It's in great shape. I think I've used it two, maybe three times. I picked it up just before covid. I wanted to get something i could practice with, without an amplifier and an acoustic is just too big.
Send a pic?

Double Bass Muted string

I understand the Zyex were bad for arco, but was the A the same level as the others with arco?
If so, then the problem would likely be the Kaplan A string.
But if the arco unbalance was already there with the Zyex, then mot likely a pickup/bridge problem.
Pizz and arco don't involve the same vibrational patterns on the pickup/bridge.
I solved the muted A string problem on my Stagg EUB. I realized that all the strings sounded pretty much the same if the Stagg wasn’t amped.
So that told me that it was some sort of electronic or amp problem. I took the bridge off and low and behold the Piezo wire on the low end side wasn’t even close to being in the well correctly. It was all bunched up on one side. So I repositioned it correctly and now all the strings sound pretty much the same when bowing. By the way, good problem solving at your end. Many thanks.
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Is the Ampeg SVP-BSP essentially the same pre as the Ampeg SVP-CL?

Sounds rad! I've been considering using a BSP with an FX loop through a SVT 3 pro for a dirty sound, and an SVT 2 Non pro for my clean sound through different cabs.
Your comment is helpful, if you have more goodies to share about your experiences with the BSP Preamp, I'm definitely interested in hearing what you've got!

Unfortunately, my post is the last good memory of the SVP-BSP. I don't miss that unit at all. I currently use a Tech 21 Sansamp PSA 2.0. I like the ability to program multiple OD tones and switch them easily.

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