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Somewhere along the line... I must have enabled email notifications. They are driving me up the wall. Can someone direct me on how to shut them off?

Update: Tonight is the first game of the season, and she is excited because they gave her a solo! I unfortunately have a gig tonight but will catch the next game for sure!!! It is kind of cool that she and I will be playing bass tonight at the same time at different venues!

I have these on my Mikro. Fit perfectly and sound great.

Ernie Ball Power Slinky Flatwound Short Scale Electric Bass Strings 50-110 Gauge (P02817)​

Thanks to ChrisDev for editing this.

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iiipopes said:

I am not fond of many of the SD stack pickups. Most like the one discussed have so much wire on them they are muddy, because a stack setup inherently has deficient bass response. I would get a Lindy Fralin Split '51, which will retain tone and kill noise and hum. You can also choose options for both output, tone, and aesthetics. There is a disclaimer on the website to measure your pickup to make sure it fits the pickup cavity.

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Nothing wrong with having your own preferences. But you haven't heard mine. It lacks neither the lows nor the highs. Both are loud & proud.

The seller I bought from was on Reverb. "Guitar Store"....thats as basic as it gets.
The heel thickness was perfectly level and like I mentioned earlier, it's level with the headstock. The thickness is like having a Fender or Squier neck and it bolted right on with the right amount of tightness to my JB body neck pocket.
I did hear back from the seller this morning and he's willing to reimburse a portion, how much right now is unknown. Regardless, his communication is great and he realized the mistake. I would buy from him again based on THIS neck's quality and his willingness to work things out. Of course there may be a dead dog in his kennel so investigate the living hell out of any neck before pulling the trigger.

All things aside, the neck I got it really good and I'll be happy with it now that it's on the body and ready to go (not 100% completed). I have 2 active only fretless basses so having a passive JB fretless should fill things out with my collection.

One side note on this. If anyone is questioning if these are truely flamed maple or even being roasted; these are 100% legit flamed maple and roasted. When I drilled into the neck the smell of caramel and spicy meatballs was evident. You can't fake that smell no matter how many robot break dancers China has made in which to invade the USA.

Mighty Thumb said:

Stopped by the shop today to pick up my Century 5 P/J; it needed a check-up. New output jack, new active/passive switch, replaced two knobs, checked electronics, Plek and setup with new strings (Dunlop Nickel Super Brights). I also asked if he could write a new build letter. Since it’s one of the basses featured in the video on the website I thought it would be good for it to have one. Perhaps because it was a NAMM show bass it didn’t come with one? @JOME77 any idea who the original owner was?

We talked 6 strings a little bit and I got to try a really nice LG 6 that was on its way overseas. Lots of options to consider….

Then there was a little trip down memory lane.

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Keith is such a wonderful person and a treasure of the bass world!

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Looks like you had a Fun day Nate!
Keith is so accommodating!
I purchased that Roscoe PJ from Chris Lykins and it didn’t come with the letter. Not sure if he was the original owner.

So after many years I am adding a EQ pedal to my pedal board.
This has been brought about for me by two things I have added, 5 string passive and active bass guitars and a sub to our Pa system.
The low end rumble is nice to hear, but in a band situation it got tough to control with just Sans Amp di out to the FOH (no amp on stage) without adjusting away all of the feel for me in rooms I play in.
I purchased a 10 band EQ, so I can really control the complete eq of my mix. I spent weeks educating myself to what does what and suggestions of what works best to reach my goal of cleaning up my end of the band mix .
thanks for staying for my story. RTS

NKBassman said:

Unless I'm misunderstanding something, you can't "coil split" a P pickup. Both halves of the P work together to make a complete circuit. You can wire the halves of it together in either Series (standard) or Parallel (very unusual), but there's nothing to "split" on a typical P pickup.

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OFF TOPIC: Westone Thunder IAs had a series/parallel switch for the P, which was quite useful. On at least some Magnatone pickup versions (later ones) you could put in more pole pieces and make it a full traditional-style humbucker.

derbis said:

I’m a day late but here it is! When I first saw the orchid pink, I knew I had to have it, but by the time I had the cash the new colors were out and nobody except this shop ~3 hours away had a pink one. I got them to ship it to me, but for some reason, UPS returned the package to the store on 2 separate occasions, so I drove ~6 hours round trip to get it. So far, it’s been worth it, I love this instrument.
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That’s beautiful man. Well worth the 6 hour drive!

monkeyfinger said:

I just put a set of David Allen pickups in my 60th anniversary. I am very happy with them. I have also tried Fender 60's custom shop, Bill Lawrence, Fralin, and Nordstrand in this bass. The D.A.'s really nail the tone I am looking for. I also ordered the NOS mil .47pF cap for $1 additional. Very nice cap.

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Very nice! I like that.

Yahboy said:

Ti Jf344 and EB Cobalt flat .

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I have (over time) added Dunlop flats to your short list. Difference? They do mellow over time a bit more than those two.

Artman said:

Seymour Duncan Apollo J.
They sound really close to the pickups in my 2017 USA Geddy Lee Jazz Bass, only without single coil hum when I solo or blend pickups.
Big bottom end, bright, and articulate.

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FWIW,
I had a set of Apollo’s in a Jazz 5, and they had great punch and tone in a fretted, but for some reason I found them a bit underwhelming in a fretless.
I replaced them with Aguilar HC’s and found these to sound more closely aligned with that single-coil tone. I felt that the Apollo’s just didn’t have that top-end for making a fretless sing.

After not having a [fretted] JB for 2 years , I just got another one, and am on the fence between these two pickups again, but leaning more towards the AG’s.

Gopherbassist said:

I know you haven't had it long, but from a playing perspective are you noticing any practical changes between the bridge/tailpiece combo and a solid bridge?

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It's hard to say, this is also Neck through and all my other basses are bolt-on. So any differences in resonance could be for any number of reasons. That being said, I'd had a couple Warwicks in the past that also have a similar 2 piece bridge, and obviously Alembic famously uses the 2 piece design. I think it's a perfectly good design. No complaints. Everything feels very solid and unlikely to buzz/rattle.

Alright here is something a little different for y’all: a Jag H body with a lefty short scale neck. I’m using the medium scale neck for a different project and thought I’d try to see if this was possible. I snagged a left handed “Artist” brand short scale bass for cheap which has the same neck pocket dims as the Squier. Took just a bit of light sanding to get a snug fit. And I had enough travel with the aftermarket bridge that I did not have to redrill. So here it is: SS Jag H!

I’ve changed the pickup to a double J humbucker and cut a new pickguard. Also nice that I can use long scale strings. Balance is much better than with the 32” neck. Fun to play and certainly unique and quirky.
Cheers,
Chris

I’m old and used to the standard position.
I haven't played a reverse P enough, just a borrowed one. So I never got used to it; therefore I didn't like it.

Remember old guy use to his old things and ways

CobraBassGeezer said:

A shout regularly heard on the Russian steppe ...

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Da comrade! Is better!

gerryjazzman said:

Hi all. I have an old Univox P-bass clone that has an EMG HZ P-pickup (which has always sounded quite good actually). Had this thing for years and used to use nickel round wound strings (mostly Fender 7250's). Recently I decided to put some flats on it as I have plenty of other basses with rounds. I wanted to get the "old school sound" from the 60's and early 70's. I tried the ubiquitous Labella Deep Talkin' Flats in the 760FL gauge (43-104). They sounded pretty much as I wanted but the tension is too high for my aging fingers. I decided to try Ernie Ball Group 4 flats (40-95) which felt better, but they sound more like rounds to me. They lost the old school sound. Would I be better off just tring the Labella 760FX (39-96) or the Labella Low Tension Flats? I seemed to remember that the LTF didn't have the sound of the DTF's so I shy'd away from those. What say you folks from flatland?

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Well...
I have the EB Group IV flats on my Schecter Stiletto Studio 4 lined fretless bass; the La Bella 760FX's on one of my Dano DC59 Pros; and the La Bella LTF4-A Flexible Flats on my G&L Kiloton lined Fretless. Of the 3, I'd say the La Bella LTF4-A's sounded the most "Old School", but... the others are not all that far behind. And, none of them are in the running for "Old School" champs, either...
As for low tension? That's usually a product of a small round core, and/or a light gauge. Like, say, TI Jazz Flats. Very flexible; easy on the fingers, but... Old School flats tone? Uhh... no. However...
if you can settle for "fairly flexible, and fairly low tension", along with Old School tone? I do use some flats that can qualify:
- Optima 4440 RB (Rickenbacker Bass) Flats. They're clones of the original Maxima 4440 Flats that Rickenbacker 4001s and early 4003s used to ship with. I have them on my 4003; I find them to be flexible, but stiff enough to work well with a pick; and pretty thumpy, too... Their 4099RL Chromes, might qualify, too. Not quite as flexible, but a little more thump. They sound killer on my '88 Tokai TB48 Thunderbird...
- Dogal R44 Traditional Flats. A lot like the Optimas in feel and tension, but... maybe a tad more thump. I have them on my '13 Gibson T-Bird, though, and it's a very different bass from the Rick, so... hard to tell?
- Dogal JC106A "Jaco" CarbonSteel Flats. Extremely low tension, but they sure don't feel like it. Stiff enough for a pick, but... only just. They have a really good low end, but plenty of low-mids and mids. Noticeable highs, too - depending on the bass. I have them on my '73 Rick 4001, which has neck trouble, and really needs the low tension. But, I'd gladly use them on any of my other basses that could wear them...
- Galli JF4505 Jazz Flats. I have these on my EBMM 4HH Stingray Special. They might be... well, they're a little stiffer than the flats listed above, but... only a little. They are plenty thumpy, though. They are also the smoothest flats I've ever played - in 50+ years of playing flats...
As for all the other flats I have on my other basses? Some of them are not in the "Old School Thump" tent; and a lot of them - like the Roto RS77LD Monel Flats - are very thumpy, but are also very high tension - and play like bridge cables. So...
Bottom end? "Old School Thump" and flexible/low tension are... not exactly compatible. IME, you're going to have to compromise, and to deal with a little more stiffness - or a little less thump...

Here's a couple from the mid 60's.....

tb-player said:

Mine are the Medium-Light set. He just sent me a bunch of sets so I know he has them in stock. Normal long scale should work fine. If yo want thinner than .125, you could check out SIT Powerwound strings. They can be ordered in custom sizes. I get a .120 from them for my MTD.

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Thanks again for the information. I figured that the body wood on my bass was Swamp Ash, but I found out today that it is Sassafras.

I also put another Beatles bass cover with my Gibson Les Paul Triumph:

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I remember the LeCover company, didn't realize they were still in business!
I've got cabinet and combo amp covers from Tuki Covers and Rigg.
Yes they are more expensive than a t-shirt, but they protect your gear much more effectively.

Where to get a Gibson g3 neck plate under 50 bucks

Locking in a guy who consistently underperforms in the playoffs, for the next three years (when he'll be 40), doesn't seem smart to me.