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Modulus Mob

Have you not had a model with a truss rod? My q5 is from 99 and had a pretty sizeable bow but I was able to correct it about 99% with the truss rod. Also you can get them with rosewood fretboards that don't shrink like the phenolic. Cheers!
I have a 1997 J-bass (Modulus of course) with the Chechen fingerboard and have had no issues - knock on wood (or graphite).

SG & EB Bass Club

I love the SG body style. Weird question. Why do you think the bottom half, when sitting upright, is wider than the top half where the horns are?

Many electric guitars and basses mimic an acoustic outline. The Fender Tele, Strat, Precisions, the Gibson Les Paul, SG, etc are all roughly acoustic body shapes with one or two cutaways. Those all have larger lower bouts and smaller upper bouts.

Fixed: Sadowsky MetroExpress M pickup switch problem

I just bought a Sadowsky MetroExpress M bass, which turned out to have a faulty pickup switch (for switching to series - single coil - parallel). Bought it on vacation abroad, so returning it to the shop wasn't really an option. However, after some measuring, I found this easy fix. I suspect more ME basses have this same problem, so wanted to share this.

Note, loving this bass!

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Darkglass Kaamos

Price and functionality. It has incredible tracking and in a mix does exactly what I need. I use it for an added low octave a lot like most folks use the BOD.

I have tired so many octave pedals and for some reason the OC-5 just wins. And it’s always easy to find and affordable.
Ah- I missed the post from May where you explained selling it- I thought you were just saying that you had both and were choosing to use the Boss instead for some reason. I get it- I have a couple pricey pedals in my rig right now that I'd love to turn into cash if I could find reasonable cheaper alternatives that filled their roles as well.

NBD Squier Antigua p

I'm a slacker. Only mod I made to my Antigua P was HiMass bridge (not pictured).

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I still love the look of the maple neck. I wouldn’t have replaced the neck if it wasn’t giving me so many problems. I really think mine got past QC. The original pickups were decent from what I played but I use the same pickups on my p style basses. That Spector is sweet BTW!
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Peavey Millineum BXP 4 pickup replacements

Just inherited a tiger eye Millennium BXP 5 string. I was surprised to see a wheel at the neck base for truss rod adjusting...wish all of my basses had one. The pickups had been bottomed out and won't raise up at all, so I will pull them out and add foam/springs as needed. Right now, the tone is on the darker side with a twinge of bite on the G string. Once I get the pickups raised, I may have a little more variation in tone because right now, it's not very impressive. There was no relief in the neck when I got it yesterday, so I slacked off the truss rod (did I mention that I love wheel truss rod adjusters?) and it's great from a playability standpoint. I thought about dropping some Wilde J45s in it, but the pickups that are standard in this one are very wide for a J-style pickup at 103 mm with screws 45 mm on center. The Wildes wouldn't drop in without a lot of slack, not to mention the body would need to be filed to accommodate the mounting tabs/strews which are much narrower on the Wildes.
What's is the general consensus on the stock pickups? Worthwhile as they are, or, if not, are there any recommended drop-ins that don't involve body modifications?

Kim
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Starting bass 1- headless, lightweight bass with mish mash parts

Name/Model
# Strings/Tuning- 4 strings; standard tuning
Handedness- right hand
Scale length- 32" (or 34" with one fret chopped off)
Headstock shape- headless
Headstock top plate
Headstock back plate
Headstock thickness- same thickness as neck billet. Will probably glue on some excess ebony from fretboard on back as a thumb stop.
Headstock tilt/setback- NA
Headstock finish- I'm planning Rubio Monocoat
Volute
Tuners- Nova headless hardware
Truss rod- Bitterroot spokewheel truss rod for 34" bass (not sure if this is a dumb idea). I plan to make my neck tenon longer.
TR Adjustment end- heel
Stabilizer bars- dunno. I have carbon fiber, but think the ebony might be okay
Nut/string spacer
Nut width- 19 mm I think
Nut string spacing
24th fret width0 *Need to measure
Neck Materials- Port orford and ebony
Neck shape- ? Basing my profile off a Warmouth 32" neck
1st fret thickness
12th fret thickness
Fingerboard Material- Ebony; I'm assuming Gaboon
Fingerboard Radius- Compound. Hand planing this
Fingerboard Inlays- 2 mm Paua dots (not sure if you want something else? I think it'd go great with the Evo gold fretwire)
Fingerboard Binding- none
Fingerboard Finish- none
Fret size- acoustic guitar size; so Vintage?
Side Inlays- Maybe puau dots, or glow in the dark?
Neck Finish- Rubio mono coat
Neck Joint- bolt on, in brass inserts
Body Shape- Several: Steinberger, Larait, folding one sorta based on the Mezzaluna bass.
Body thickness- about 1.5 in
Body Core- Port orford cedar
Top Plate
Back Plate
Body Finish- Rubio Monocoat
Hardware colour- black/gold (only color Nova makes)
Bridge- (Nova headless)
Bridge spacing-
Bridge base material- aluminum and brass
Pickups- Fralin stock split 51 P with hybrid stagger (for flatter/compound radius)
Pickup Covers- Stock Amazon cheapie. Chrome
Circuit/Controls- simple P bass prewired harness. May upgrade parts in future
Knobs- Stock amazon T and V knob; Facing the player
Switches- none
Output/mount/location- On leg side facing lower bout
Pickguard(s)- NA
Battery options- NA
Rear cavity covers- NA
Strap buttons- ? Some that I got from LMII on sale right before they closed
Gig Bag- maybe a rifle case?
Hard Case
Weight (lb/kg)- As light as possible without neck dive. I'm aiming for under 6 lb.

Thanks for the list! I helped me organize my thoughts.
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Fender Dimension bass pickup and preamp swap

916 pickups will rewind the current pickup if you want to keep the original look. I’ve installed a few of their NEO P bass pickups and I’ve been blown away by the tone. I think they’re worth a look and email if you’re interested in keeping the stock appearance. If you really want to route the bass the world is your oyster.

I liked the tone of the Dimension HH’s I had. If I recall correctly they really benefited a judicious use of the preamp, but even the extremes of the preamp sounded natural and not over hyped. I hope you get it working the way you like!
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I’m Retiring From Live Performance after 60 years of Playing Part Uno

I first played music in public at the age of 8 (grade school orchestra). Made my living designing pro audio gear (much of which was used to make music) and retired 5 years ago. If you've ever watched "Married with Children", one underlying theme is that Al (the central character) peaked in High School, and it has been all downhill since. In my case, the biggest musical gig I played so far (a series of big gigs, actually) occurred when I was...66. Yes, I was the oldest person on stage, but I felt really lucky to be there - the other musicians were all fantastic!

And, there is still time for an even bigger one...maybe?

What is causing this crackling I am hearing ?

The power amp in the Subway Bass 800D is NOT exactly the same as design as the Demeter.

Important differences are that the Subway amps are rated (with safety/EMC certifications) for operation of 800 watts RMS at 2 ohms, and has significantly different master section drive management and algorithms.

Assumptions can’t be made across different manufacturers, even if they happen to use the same power module.

I just read the TT-800 manual ( hint GAS attack ) and I appreciate all the technical explanations you and the Mesa team have given specially on the power amp, in the FAQ section of the manual, My buddy did ask Demeter to equip his older VTBP-201S with an 800 watt power amp and it does behave differently than the subway WD-800 I borrowed for almost 2 weeks. I had a chance to compare them side by side for a few days. The WD-800 and I am the subsequent amplifiers are definitely rooted in tube power designs

I think many of us old guys do not play loud to appreciate/differentiate the designs in the power section of modern class D amps vs powered speakers and the like or just adding a class D power module. Loud may not be your default operating mode but you should at least try it once. Of course be very mindful of your speaker capacity and setup.

Klos: comparable to Modulus?

Carbon fiber is plastic.
You can make things out of plastic that has short carbon fibers in it, but that is not at all what is being done here. Carbon fiber (as done in a lot of things, including bass necks) is a composite material - long carbon fibers (which can run the entire length of the neck, and can be oriented however the designer wishes), which supply the tensile strength and stiff ness, and a glue - epoxy or polyester resin, which binds the fibers together. It's a VERY different material than any simple plastic, and has far different properties.

Wood is also a composite material - it has fibers (cellulose, which can run the length of the neck, but which run the direction that they grew in the tree) and it has lignin - a natural glue, which binds those fibers together. Wood is lighter than carbon fiber - maple is about a third the density of a typical carbon fiber layup - for a carbon fiber neck to be a decent weight, it has to be hollow.

Both wood and carbon fiber are anisotropic materials - they have far different stiffness and strength along the direction of the grain than they across the grain. You can make a neck that will resist the forces of strings tied to them with wood or with carbon fiber. If you try that will plastic in the normal cross sections you would use with wood or carbon fiber, it won't work at all - it won't be stiff or strong enough. It will also be heavier than maple - plastic is about 67% more dense than maple.

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