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Peavey T-40 intonation screws

Yup, if you got one take it to your local hardware store and look for a match. I have walked in with rando screws on countless occasions and never got any flak from staff.
Worked at an Ace hardware for a while earlier this year and can confirm. Can also confirm you probably want to ask for a hand. We had a LOT of hardware in those bins

HOT DEAL/PSA: Fender Cobalt Chrome J and P Bass Pickup Sets Half Off (Direct from Fender)

FENDER.COM 4th OF JULY SALE!

Just a heads-up, I just noticed that Fender has their Cobalt Chrome Jazz Bass Pickup Sets and Cobalt Chrome Precision Bass Pickups marked down significantly directly on Fender.com.

Link to the sale page on Fender's site:



(Disclaimer: I have absolutely no affiliation with Fender, nor am I using any affiliate links. Just saw the deep discount and wanted to pass the savings along to the community!)
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Dan Smith Era Fender collectors?

Dan Smith was also responsible for the first issue standard range launched in 1982 . My all time favourite happens to be from this year featuring the classic ‘Fullerton curve’ , white controls, pickups, guard (sans thumb rest) , chrome hardware ,slim maple neck and pearl blocks still makes for a very clean contemporary looking Jazz even 44 years later.
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20xx- Anytime Build Off!

Got the magnets yesterday, with the proper polarity. Made some adjustments to the nuts, so now it properly touches all of them flat.

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As they are right now, they're about 21mm thick (about 13/16s of an inch I guess?). Not terrible, but they're on the chonky side. Anyone can think of any issues with that?
Also, anyone that ever made pickups: do you glue them to the poles (in this case the nuts) or do you leave it stick magnetically only?


BTW, I've just realized I mounted everything upside down for the pics :laugh:

probably a stupid idea...... [fretless scale length]

i think the markers are as you say where they would be on a fretted
it is more than servicable as a learning tool though just wish it was the other way around as playing right handed is very much a slow me down thing for me to say the least lol
I think I am going to get it professionally setup and tidied up and keep it as a tool for when a right handed friend visits and mentions they either play fretless or wanted to try it.
its too decent to mess with too much and too basic to be worth going to town on so set her up and let people use her i guess
the varitone and series switch I have to say are great fun though.

The Few, the Proud, the Cowpokes. (official Fender Cowpoke club)

I’m wondering what you all recommend for a preamp that works with the two existing holes. Is there something available that comes with two concentric pots? If not, I guess I could go passive with a neck volume/tone and bridge volume/tone, ‘60 Jazz Bass style.
There are many preamps out there you could theoretically replace the pots for. It's finding a stacked blend and volume pot on one shaft that's the tricky one, but there are few places out there that have a large variety of pots and probably appropriate values.

Andrew Goughe’s MTD with built-in Roland synth

Great info here y’all! It’s giving me a lot to thing about. Thank you @DJmtd for the clarification, as well as everyone else!

@sunbeast, also thanks for that info! That pickup sounds legendary. I agree, why don’t more people use this???

Damn, its discontinued :(
Roland has moved in the last couple years to the GK-5, which is basically the same passive pickup part as the GK-3 but with an AD convertor in the pickup so that you can use a (unfortunately proprietary and expensive!) TRS data cable rather than the old 13-pin analog cable used on the GK-2 and GK-3. You still get the individual output per pickup to play with inside the pedal processors, just with a theoretically more reliable cable system (the 13-pin cables and connections could definitely grow unreliable due to age and/or corrosion/oxidation over time and would have an inherently higher noise-floor than a digital signal like this which could affect tracking).

Along with that they have made a few outboard pedals compatible directly with this new pickup- the Boss GM-800 (essentially the synth engine for some of the flagship Roland synthesizers in pedal form and with guitar/bass pitch-conversion and MIDI out) and the Boss VG-800 (a guitar modeling unit using the same low-latency sound manipulation and effects as the SY-1000). Unfortunately the new pedals aren't directly compatible with the old pickups and the new pickup isn't directly compatible with the older units, but they made two different conversion boxes so you can use old pickups with new pedals and new pickups with old pedals. It is all kinda $$$$ right now, but it means you can find some of the older pieces for cheaper occasionally as people "upgrade".

I want to try the GM-800 eventually, but waiting for used prices to drop. I'll probably stick with the old pickup system since I already have several compatible and just get a conversion box. In typical Roland fashion, the new units lack some of the features of older units and bring their own issues and limitations- a big issue with the GM800 is that you get this really powerful synth/digital keyboard engine (with lots of sampled instrument sounds alongside synth sounds), but to get full editing capabilities to build your own patches you have to pay for a subscription to unlock the computer editor (you get some light editing on the pedal, but not alot for a synth). Personally I hate the concept of subscription anything in the creative world, which is why I haven't dropped the money for the GM yet despite loving the sounds I've heard and the general feature-set. The VG800 lacks alot of the sounds and tweakabilty of the SY-1000 or the older Roland VG/VB-99 as well, and you can't stack as many layers- it seems like the SY-1000 might have that one beat for my uses.

P bass or J bass with narrow bridge string spacing, Jazz bass neck?

Hmm, I measured my RIC, Casady and Tribute Kiloton all around 17.5-18mm. The Modern Player bridge (which is high mass) is definitely over 20mm. Same for my Squier Affinity "Do I like P basses" Precision bass.

I'm measuring center to center on the E and A strings at the saddles. I can't read little things anymore so I'm not that precise, but there's definitely a big difference between the 3 that are close to each other vs the 2 Fenders.

Fender's standard string spacing (and most other brands) is 19 mm since forever for 4 string basses. Maybe you are measuring at an angle and not perpendicular to the centerline?

I replaced a pbass bridge for individual bridges 17 mm appart because I couldn't find a suitable narrower bridge, and really like it. Thought about a threaded bridge, but going from 19 to 17 mm implied moving the outer strings 3 mm and it seemed like the lateral break angle would be a bit extreme.

I have about 8 mm of extra fingerboard to each side at the heel. It looks a bit weird, but never noticed it while playing; I think my left hand hardly ever touches the edge of the fretboard anyway.

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