Recent content by CharlieB

One way to remove screws: You get a little piece of steel tubing and file some saw teeth in the end of it. The tubing needs to be just big enough to fit over the screw shank. Chuck it up in a HANDCRANK drill and slowly, steadily saw a hole around the broken screw. The broken screw comes out...

Don't the nubs hold in the part that retains the worm gear? If those were removed... I'm not too clear on this, as I don't have one in front of me....

Jeeze! How hard is it to make eight little divots that won't be seen by anyone unless you take the tuners (that you love...) off?

I can't smell it... then again, there's bourbon and gingerale in my nose.... Seriously, nice level out! A chip like that is a mofo to get "perfect". You really have to have an artist's skills to get that really invisible. You look at old time (and very very good) repairmen, and they have...

If you're going to drop fill clear coat, then only use the undercoat enough to provide the color and not build up the finish. The idea is to get a little hill of lacquer that you can shave, sand and and polish. So, color below to match, and clear above to make level.

Reranch has em.... On their color chart (not old Fender). But ya gotta finagle around to drop fill. I like baby food "apples and apricots" as my go to baby food jar.

Id Id personally use Reranch colors with the drop fill method..... Look at frets.com forvdrop filling. Lacquer MUST fully dry...not just be dry to the touch. A thick application like a drop will take perhaps two weeks or more. Level like frank shows...final levelcw/ a block. I use Mothers...

Would you want to put the money of a resurface and refret into a MIM neck.... and hope it stays put, or put the same or similar moola into a better neck that _will_ stay put?

The Warmoth is a pretty nice neck. Ya wont save money over a replacement USA Fender neck, and they're more than a replacement MIM neck, but better quality, sturdier, more stable, than either of those. And you get to pick the wood, the fretboard, the nut, and the size and material of the frets...

Have no idea what that is.... but just for grins, maybe its an inductor? I know that Bill Lawrence made some bass worthy Q-Filters (inductors) that when dialed in thru a tone control, replacing the capacitor, would scoop out the mids, rather than cut highs.

That is gonna be a painus in the anus, due to the variations in "white blonde". But you can get it close. You might have to mix "blonde" (white blonde) with "mary kaye" (also white blonde) to get it right, and... do a bunch of testing. I'd try first with "blonde" (white blonde), as a test...

Ceiling fan does it for me.... gotta turn that thing off

Here in FL, its a twice yearly truss rod adjust. Contrary to the Northern Barrens of the USA, we are dry in our rainy season due to AC, and humid in our dry season, due to open windows. Do that make a diff? Oh heck yes! Mostly on necks with rosewood/ebony/pau-ferro fretboards as opposed to...

I wouldn't let that totally bother me. Some of the Fender basses (and guitars) are similarly fit. Higher humidity will swell the wood in all directions, making the neck swell, the body swell... and you'll have a tighter fit. This is simply a case of being fit to not the very highest degree of...

Yup, any time the shaft is not square with the bushing.... you get binding