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I agree that 35s do seem have a better B all else being equal but I don't find 34 too bad either. Counter-intuitively, lighter string seem to work better for me on the low B in 34 and 35 (Obviously with higher action to accommodate)

Lower action and lighter strings Going back to 34" 5 string PJ I found 1. was more important than 2.

I practise unplugged and I think it's best to do both

I only tried with methylated spirit or denatured alcohol and and it definitely brought back some zing for a little while. I also used to get rust in at the core of the string so I found that doing it made the strings break earlier rather than extending life.

I play without an amp a lot. I end up playing louder than I would with amplification but I think it's not a problem as long as you don't raise your action to compensate

To be honest, I only like playing the songs that my band play well. We play Do I Do, Superstition and a few Chic songs which I really like playing at home but we don't quite play the songs with the feel they deserve so I prefer playing songs that I should hate like All I want for Christmas is...

I haven't read to see if someone has mentioned it before but the pickup is an 6 string electric guitar pickup. If you lift the cover off, you will see that it's basically a strat pickup with 6 pole pieces. At least that was the case with one that my friend bought. Really easy to play, though...

Hi there, I wanted a Yamaha TRB5Pii for ages and one came up on Reverb which was described as in mint condition so I bought it: When it arrived the frets had been changed badly (Yamaha fretwork is one of the reasons I wanted that bass), there were dings all over the body and few places where the...

I'm struggling to believe the quality of all of these entries

Yeah I agee, the fretwraps aren't expensive but I've been buying these cheap Chinese copies instead and they are around £4 instead of £12. They're okay but they mute the G and B far more than the A. I put a piece of card in my fret wrap to stop it bending and it works far better now. I think...

I've written off GruvGear since trying the Fump and Fretwraps. They seem to produce inadequate solutions to problems that don't need solving with extensive marketing and then charge too much for their products

You can earn the right to play it once you've bought it. All it takes is practise.

I've found that some drummers come in at the wrong tempo or even the wrong place if anyone apart from him/her does the count-in. If your drummer is one of those, you won't be able solve the problem easily because he or she doesn't listen to what everyone else is playing. The drummer may be...

Navigating a jazz sequence is just like learning to drive a car, in many respects. Just use the skills you have already, even if they are quite basic, and try to look as far ahead as you can. If you can't see around a corner or past a hazard, keep your eye on the road in front of you and make...

Hardly headline grabbing but the EBS multicomp suprised me. I wanted something with blend or a sidechain to stop low frequency squashing and threshold and attack to control tighten the sound but I found that the multicomp just compresses everything the right amount and has just two knobs.

I have found the same problem on my TRB5pii. The bridge has two rails on either side and the saddle has a piece of metal that goes in between the two rails and it's this piece that rattles against the two rails on the side. I stopped the rattling by taking the bridge off, turning it upside down...

My current band said that they did a gig before I joined and someone towards the front turned to one of her friends and said "What's the name of the band?" and someone else looked at the drummer's bass drum and shouted "YAMAHAAAAAAAA"

I don't use metronomes for most of the reasons listed here by the other posters. I don't use it to sight read or practise difficult passages because I prefer to be able to slow down or try again when I get it wrong. However, I do practise with the metronome as a isolated exercise in order to...

That is such a great interview. I agree with basically everything he says

I've got a Stagg EUB case for my Aria SWB Lite. It's not the BIS version but the hard case works fine. The locks on the case are rubbish and can be forced open easilly but may prevent it from being opened by accident in transport. I bought the Aria SWB second hand and it was shipped to me in...

You should consider glueing foam to the Velcro to have a convenient way of removing the device quickly

This thread has been dead for a while but I discovered a solution which works really well. You take off the bottom end of the strap, loop it through the plastic thing that adjusts the strap and then re-attach it to the guitar. I'll try to post some pictures but this will be pretty difficult to...

Sounds very good: Very transparent and powerful, deep bass. Makes a lot of hiss though

This can be solved with another question: How do you remove the bridge pins on an acoustic guitar? Wire snippers is the answer: Open them up, place at the base of the knob and use the triangular ends of the wire snippers to slowly pry the knob away from the shaft. ...knob knob knob shaft...

I've done it, it's a fantastic idea. It takes quite a lot of effort and I don't think I can remember everything that I had to do but you only need a block of wood, some sandpaper, nail clippers and wood filler. Another important thing, you can't do what I did with a maple fingerboard