• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

.05 vs .045 g-string

Noobish question. I recently started playing my bass again, dug it out of the garage after 20 years. Needs new strings. It’s been so long I don’t remember for sure what gauge was on back in the day. Most likely 45/105. However, it’s a medium scale Yamaha motion B and it looks like most medium scale sets these days are 50/105. Assuming my nut is slotted for 45 G and 65 D, would 50 G and 70 D fit in the slots without filing? Don’t mind experimenting with slightly heavier strings (been messing around with Peter Hook stuff and he uses a .60 G!) but don’t want to mess with the nut if I don’t have to. Any opinions on the difference between the two gauges. Or if you you’re aware of any 45/105 medium scale nickel-coated Roundwounds that you’d recommend. I’d love to try the nickel coated blue steels but I think they’re only long scale. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Then please enlighten me.

The main challenge is the selection is rather limited to begin with when it comes to "medium-scale" bass strings.

Here are a couple I can think of...

GHS Boomers "medium scale", 45-65-85-105. (35.5" winding length from ball end to taper/silk)
DR Sunbeams "short scale", 45-65-85-105. (NOTE: DR's "short scale" is 33.75" from ball end to taper, which is actually long enough to be classified as "medium scale")
 
The main challenge is the selection is rather limited to begin with when it comes to "medium-scale" bass strings.

Here are a couple I can think of...

GHS Boomers "medium scale", 45-65-85-105. (35.5" winding length from ball end to taper/silk)
DR Sunbeams "short scale", 45-65-85-105. (NOTE: DR's "short scale" is 33.75" from ball end to taper, which is actually long enough to be classified as "medium scale")
Thanks, I saw the boomers but they seem to get a lot of negative reviews re string life?
 
Thanks, I saw the boomers but they seem to get a lot of negative reviews re string life?

It all depends on one's perspective as to what they consider to be an optimal tone.

The Boomers are certainly not for zing lovers who want a sparkly "piano tone" out of their bass as their basic tonal character is on the dark side with more emphasis on low-mid punch and grind. I have a set on my 5-string Yamaha and love them.

DR Sunbeams, mentioned above, would be a better choice for a brighter tone that lasts longer.
 
The main challenge is the selection is rather limited to begin with when it comes to "medium-scale" bass strings.

Here are a couple I can think of...

GHS Boomers "medium scale", 45-65-85-105. (35.5" winding length from ball end to taper/silk)
DR Sunbeams "short scale", 45-65-85-105. (NOTE: DR's "short scale" is 33.75" from ball end to taper, which is actually long enough to be classified as "medium scale")
Dangit, the sunbeam short scales wont work. My bass's winding length is between 34" and 35.75'. daddario annoyingly does not publish actual measurements on their site, someone posted on these forums that their medium is 34" which is exactly my bass' measurement fom ball end to back of nut, so im thinking thats just too close, if its actually like 33.8 that wont work right? ghs' med scale is 35.5 which would be perfect.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, I saw the boomers but they seem to get a lot of negative reviews re string life?

If you like zing, Boomers have a very short life. If you don't like zing, they have a very long life. They have zing out of the package, but it fades fairly quickly, and then they sound the same for a very long time. I have Boomers on a couple of basses where I want that sound - they're great there, other than the break in period. I have other strings on other basses where I want zing.

I'm considering using new Boomers on the basses where I want zing for a couple months, and then moving them (once the zing leaves) to the basses where I don't want it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: michael_t
If you like zing, Boomers have a very short life. If you don't like zing, they have a very long life. They have zing out of the package, but it fades fairly quickly, and then they sound the same for a very long time. I have Boomers on a couple of basses where I want that sound - they're great there, other than the break in period. I have other strings on other basses where I want zing.

I'm considering using new Boomers on the basses where I want zing for a couple months, and then moving them (once the zing leaves) to the basses where I don't want it.
Not sure if I prefer “zing”. Back in the 90’s when I was playing I preferred a deeper sound, could always eq in enough highs if I wanted. I think I’m looking for versatile strings, was hoping to try out sunbeams and experiment with the warmer sound and more flexibility (mostly a finger player) but alas they don’t fit. So down to addarios with the slightly bigger gauge, or more likely the boomers which will probably work well with the Yamaha’s tone. Wish the round core boomers came in medium scale. I think I’m way overthinking this
 
Last edited:
Thanks, guess I missed that. If my bass’ length is exactly 34 can I use exact 34” strings or should there be just a little wiggle room past the nut?
Toughie. If it were me, I'd first decide if other options (the aforementioned GHS) are more attractive on paper; in case I ended up still leaning toward one of the D'Addario sets anyway, I guess I would take the risk and, to quote myself,
[ s]hould the start of the tapered section sit right against the inner edge of the nut slot before tune-up, and get caught thereupon, you could put something stiff and thin (something like a razor blade, but not necessarily sharp nor super-thin) between string and nut, provisionally, just so the string is lifted out of the slot while it is brought to tension: after the string is tuned to pitch, remove the wafer-whatever, let the string fall inside the slot (by this time, the taper step should be past the edge of the slot) and fine-tune.
[A pen under the string between nut and first fret, or something similar (of appropriate height) past the nut, would work just as well.]
 
Toughie. If it were me, I'd first decide if other options (the aforementioned GHS) are more attractive on paper; in case I ended up still leaning toward one of the D'Addario sets anyway, I guess I would take the risk and, to quote myself,

[A pen under the string between nut and first fret, or something similar (of appropriate height) past the nut, would work just as well.]

I ordered boomers. But I see your point, strings stretch, so a 34” would likely work fine. I like to experiment, so next time
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: HaphAsSard
I see your point, strings stretch
They do, a little bit (not as much as classical guitar or ukulele nylon strings do, of course); the trick I described above helped me fit a string that was, um, too Goldiloxy, in the past. On the other hand, you're also right in that a string may exit the factory having been wound a bit too short so that no amount of stretching may fix its fittage on an instrument whose scale is the same as the string's advertised winding length. So there is an amount of risk involved.
 
Change strings? Why did one break?

If there is green stuff growing on them after 20 years, just wipe em off and get to playing.

Wiping them off is optional by the way....
 
Change strings? Why did one break?

If there is green stuff growing on them after 20 years, just wipe em off and get to playing.

Wiping them off is optional by the way....
Haha, i seem to remember they were super dead and in need of changing even before i put it away in 2000.
Im not one who feels he needs to change strings constantly but after 21 years in the garage and rust spots on them, thought id try something difefrent too (old ones were steel not nickel coated)
 
  • Like
Reactions: WillyWonka