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15" 16 ohm Speaker Options?

#24
sineas said:
Those push plugs are spring loaded (push to slip in leads and release...done) so all you do... take off your existing slipon connectors... have a decent lead length (solder the leads too btw)
Click to expand...

I thought that might be the case. So, to use this speaker I would cut the existing conncters off the cabinet's speaker wire. Strip a little of the jacket off the wires and pop them in the positive and negative terminals? Is the solder just to add a good conductive connection between the wire and the terminals?

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for the help.
 
#26
sineas said:
being that the 15" WGS has posted it's specs... try some calculations here: http://www.audiogrid.com/audio/ and see what it'll give you
Click to expand...

Wow. Great site. But, I can't seem to find any Mac friendly programs up there? Does anyone know any loudspeaker simulators that run on OS X? Or can someone run the numbers for me and see what they get? I hope this is all the data needed:

Cabinet:
3.25 cubic feet front ported speaker enclosure (cabinet is actualy bigger but has a sealed .69 cubic feet box for a 10" driver in the upper right hand corner of the cabinet, thus the remaining area is roughly 3.25 cubic feet):

Speaker specs:
http://www.warehouseguitarspeakers.com/proddetail.php?prod=15bass
 
#27
you will probably need to change the porting of your cab but it seems like it will do pretty well in a 3.25 cf enclosure. taking a guess at the volume taken up by the speaker it looks like it will have an f3 of around 46-48hz, tuning was something like 37hz if i remember right. average sensitivity was right at 94.5db. probably a lot better than the stock driver, especially since the speaker has enough excursion to take its rated power down to 30hz. (again taking the advertised specs at face value)
 
#28
Thanks for the info. I think it's time to donate with all these questions I'm asking :) (next on my list). I ordered the guitar warehouse driver. I'm new to all this type stuff. But, find it very interesting so bear with me if I'm way off. Just trying to learn a thing or two here.

Is the idea to get the guesstimated f3 of 46-48hz down to the tuning of 37hz by changing the porting of the cabinet? And if so how? Or is that a stupid question? It has an 8 1/2" (length), by 3 1/2" (height) port on the lower right section of the cabinet. Sorry, on a mac or I would try some of these modeling programs.
 
#29
johnfitz44 said:
Thanks for the info. I think it's time to donate with all these questions I'm asking :) (next on my list). I ordered the guitar warehouse driver. I'm new to all this type stuff. But, find it very interesting so bear with me if I'm way off. Just trying to learn a thing or two here.

Is the idea to get the guesstimated f3 of 46-48hz down to the tuning of 37hz by changing the porting of the cabinet? And if so how? Or is that a stupid question? It has an 8 1/2" (length), by 3 1/2" (height) port on the lower right section of the cabinet. Sorry, on a mac or I would try some of these modeling programs.
Click to expand...

If you have Excel then you can use Unibox.

Did you order the 8R or the 16R?

Edit: how deep is the existing port?
 
#30
OK, throwing the numbers into Unibox (for the 8R), I can get using your estimated net volume and port area, an FB of 37Hz, an F3 of 56Hz, no exceeding of Xmax before full power and port velocity will be very low. The caveat is that you need to have a port length of 12" which will eat into the box volume and require a retune. Before I run them again, I'd need to know the exisiting port depth and recalc it all.
 
#33
sineas said:
You really don't have to solder the leads but soldered leads is just the right thing to do for any spring loaded type of connectors
Click to expand...
Right!! Great tip there :smug: .. Yeah John, get your speaker leads well 'tinned' before you insert them into the spring-loaded terminals. The leads will retain their shape plus the copper strands won't corrode.. So you decided to go with the GWS 16 ohm driver eh? I purchased two 12" Celestion clones from them last year.. real screamers those speakers.
 
#39
A9X said:
If you have Excel then you can use Unibox.

Did you order the 8R or the 16R?

Edit: how deep is the existing port?
Click to expand...

I will be receiving the 16ohm driver tomorrow :)

A9X said:
OK, throwing the numbers into Unibox (for the 8R), I can get using your estimated net volume and port area, an FB of 37Hz, an F3 of 56Hz, no exceeding of Xmax before full power and port velocity will be very low. The caveat is that you need to have a port length of 12" which will eat into the box volume and require a retune. Before I run them again, I'd need to know the exisiting port depth and recalc it all.
Click to expand...

Please bear with me. Perhaps I'm crossing up terms here. I may be using the term "ported" when I should be using the term "vented". I have an 8 1/2 inch by 3 1/2 inch (vent?) cut into the front panel of the speaker cabinet. Make sense? Therefore, depth of the vent is the 11" which I measured between the plywood front to the back of the box. Sorry.

I have an Eden 410T which is rear ported and has the tube which may incur a "depth" measurement?

A9X said:
Via WinISD? I don't use their assumptions and work on getting the best response for the given volume, not optimising the potential of the driver to any possible box.
Click to expand...

I'm liking this idea since I don't have 7.8 cubic feet to work with :)


Please advise if I'm way off here. Thanks.
 

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