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1965 Fender Jazz Nut Issue (With Pictures)

#43
SonnyMorrow said:
A new one would stick out like a sore thumb, the original is really faded. I'd never sell the bass anyways but I want it to look the same as it always has.



Interesting. Yeah I grew up as a guitar player since around age 7 when my dad got me a guitar. I still play guitar to this day. But I remember clearly one day when I was probably 14 years old, my dad showed me Jaco's Modern Electric Bass video as he thought I should check it out, he set it up for me and left. So I watched it and I was instantly blown away. Jaco made the bass so cool, and I literally picked up the '65 which happened to be in the corner of the room (as I was watching the video). I remember it felt like a man's instrument, it was huge compared to my Les Paul. Anyways, I had no idea what the '65 was even worth or anything until years later but from that day onward I played bass ever since.

I bought a few of my own basses but they never played or sounded as good as the '65 and I didn't even know how coveted the '65 was until I was much older, I just knew I liked playing my Dad's bass because the neck was so damn smooth.

Just wanted to add my 2¢. I don't believe replacing the original nut would devalue the bass,Pleas correct me if im wrong! A s long as it is done professionally, I'd pause if it was Diy'd with crazy glue & such. Personally, I'd prefer it was fixed by a pro. I wouldnt flinch because "its all original, exceptt I had a new nut installed,It's a given, some parts wear out like tires & strings! prone to wear. I think having the clear over the og paint effects the bass' value more,but like said, I'm not an expert.I'm just giving my opinion as a potential buyer. how I would view such changes.Nice bass.GL

As for my Dad, I don't think he necessarily wanted me to play bass but it just so happened that that one day when I was 14 I became a bass player for life. I honestly don't think I'd be playing bass if it weren't for Jaco's video. Funny enough he was considered past his prime around then but his playing still moved me enough to pick up bass.

As for your son, maybe the direct approach will deter him. It just so happened in my case it sort of organically worked out but maybe you can inspire him some way indirectly. Your '65 is beautiful and I would feel the exact same way as you. I'd much rather give it to someone who will cherish it than give it to a family member who has absolutely no idea how special it is. I don't think a non musician can even fathom how special these instruments are, especially if they have a long family history.



Yes you are right. The bass in question had a rather bowed neck, not too much but I straightened it a bit. The neck now only has a slight bow which I correctly measured. The fret buzzing was already present before the adjustment but is now exacerbated. If you look in the photo, the strings are sort of eating the headstock as the nut slots are too shallow.



I have researched as per your recommendation and this method seems to be pretty good in my opinion. I just need to get the color right. The nut is yellowed pretty well, would bone be a good match? Or do I look to some other material. I would assume the baking soda trick would work well on a newer nut.
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#45
This is the best advice right here....
2F/2F said:
Two good options.

Shim, or replace and keep the original nut.

Both will work fine, and will not reduce the value of the bass.

Filling in the original nut slots with epoxy or cyanoacrylate is a bad idea, both physically speaking and historically speaking. From a workmanship standpoint, it's ghetto. From a historical standpoint, it's adding non period correct material to an original component in a non reversible way.

If you cannot make the stock nut work with a reversible and non destructive method like a well crafted shim, then just store the unmolested original and put in a new one so you can play. That's the right way to do it on a collectible and valuable thing. Do not alter an original part that no longer works. Replace it with a modern day ringer and store the unmodified original.
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#47
If there is good guitar repair person in your area thats my recommendation. Perhaps he/she could get the instrument to a playable level with minimal effect on the instrument's originality/value.
 
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#48
Engle said:
Looking at your photos, it appears the nut is slightly shifted to the left and it's been that way for a long time. It may just need to be repositioned to get the G string in the correct spot over the fingerboard.
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You have very good eyes, yes I thought the same exact thing. If you run your hands down the side you can feel it is offset. I wonder what happened or if it has always been like that from the factory? Anyways this will definitely take into account what I will be doing with the nut. I think it should get shifted over anyways so removing the nut has to happen. Still debating on what to do. I appreciate all of the advice, there is a ton more to think about than I originally thought.
 
#53
Replace it and save the old one. Holy cow! It's a NUT - not a NECK! There are 1000 ways to make a new nut look old and beat to hell. With all due respect this sounds like wanting to repair a bad pickup by rewinding it with the original wire that came on it. It's old. It's worn out. It is a serviceable part and was never intended to last 55 years. Get past that and you will be able to finish the setup you have started.
 
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#56
SonnyMorrow said:
You have very good eyes, yes I thought the same exact thing. If you run your hands down the side you can feel it is offset. I wonder what happened or if it has always been like that from the factory? Anyways this will definitely take into account what I will be doing with the nut. I think it should get shifted over anyways so removing the nut has to happen. Still debating on what to do. I appreciate all of the advice, there is a ton more to think about than I originally thought.
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If you shift it over, I wouldn't be surprised if it fixed the G buzzing. The fingerboard is higher in the center.
If it was me, I would loosen the strings and move it over. If it's loose, a couple of drops of wood glue will hold it in place.
If it's still too low, shim the G side up with a bit of business card.
You may need a hammer and a small block of wood to tap it over.
Also be aware that it may break.:unsure:
 
#59
bobyoung53 said:
I have just put a drop of superglue in low slots before and let it sit for a day, does the trick and is very easy to do and is clear and pretty much invisible. Nice bass by the way.
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Problem with most super glues is that they are as thin as water. Get one of the "gel" or "gel control" glues (loctite makes one) for this. After about 24-hours, you can just use an old G string rubbing it back and forth to sand that slot down to the depth you need (presuming you have round wound strings, flats won't do that).
 
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#60
SonnyMorrow said:
My dad pretty much gave me his 1965 Fender jazz that he has owned for the past 50 years or so. I've been playing it for a few years now and I wanted it to play its very best so I set it up the other day, adjusted the truss rod, string height, intonation etc. All according to the proper specifications provided by Fender. Th e bass plays way better, and it already played great!

The only issue I am having now is some fret buzz coming from the first fret when I play open strings. I checked the nut and according to the few tests people recommend, the nut slots are too deep, especially the G string.

I took a closer look and I think for certain the nut slots are too deep. I would attribute this to being played for half a century or so:

View attachment 4102318

View attachment 4102319



Now the bass is all original for the most part. My dad had a clear coat put on the body, over top of the original paint years ago as he said the paint was coming off everywhere when he played. Other than that it is original and I don't want to replace the nut or anything like that.

Side note: The height adjustment screws on the bridge would loosen up after playing a gig and it would be a mess. Someone on this forum recommended using clear nail polish to lock the screws after they have been adjusted. That was phenomenal advice and they don't move a bit. Others recommended replacing the bridge and keeping the original tucked away safe in the case. I didn't want to do that though, I wanted the bass to look the same as always. In this situation with the nut, I don't want to replace it or have to modify it much. I want the bass to remain looking original.

With that being said, I'm looking for any tips or tricks that can help keep this bass original yet playable with respect to the nut issue I'm having. I've thought of sticking something in the nut slots to raise the strings a bit but that seems a little half assed. Maybe not, depending on the material?

Please let me know if you have heard or known of a trick to fix too deep of nut slots. Worst case I will just leave it alone, the bass plays great and it sounds phenomenal plugged in.

Thank you very much and bellow there will be some pictures of the bass. Who doesn't like a thread with pictures.

Here is the same bass in different decades:

Late 60's?:

View attachment 4102325

Early 70s's?:

View attachment 4102321

1980s?:

View attachment 4102322

Here is the bass now:

View attachment 4102323


I greatly appreciate any advice regarding the nut, and in return, I hope this thread is a little bit entertaining.

- Sonny
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Very cool Bass Sonny. I bought a 1965 Jazz in 1966 and played it throughout high school, some college, toured with it for 3 years, and then played weekends after I stopped touring. Then, in 1976, it was stolen. Found my current bass in 1985 and, although its an all maple neck, it has the same shape profile and radius as my '65 did. Took me almost 10-years to find that and I've been playing it for the last 35-years

Here's a shot of me playing my '65 in either late '71 or early '72. That's my Standel amp behind the guitarist:
DanAndAmp_600x801.jpg
 
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