I like the 35 scale over 34 only because I like the wider frets, plus the bass just feel better.
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Some people prefer 34" to 35" scale, some the opposite, and some (like myself) have NO preference on the scale alone (because scale alone does not determine much, if anything at all)
ALL other parameters equal, I prefer a longer scale bass with the best playability available (string tension, playability and ergonomics included here as well), the BEST tone, tonal balance and clarity across the strings and board.
I disagree with KJung over his comparison of Dingwall's B-string to other "soapbar-loaded" well-made basses for two reasons: first of all I own (or have owned for a considerable length of time) top models of most of the brands which have been mentioned in the thread and even though their B string is very good to great, what I call "tonal balance" (across the board and strings) is not as apparent in other basses (at least to the level that it's present on Dingwall basses). PLUS I'm the "heretic" which mods his Dingwalls with non-stock pickups and strings to listen to differences produced by different strings, pickups, electronics (soapbars are just the shells, right???, so...)
DISCLAIMER: KJUNG I have NOTHING personal against you, in fact I agree with most of what you say, esp that MTD's, A-C's and Sadowsky's (to name a few that I've owned and tried) are REALLY well made and great sounding basses; it's just that I have experimented with Dingwalls so much for so long (with more than 50-100 great basses in hand to compare, at ANY given time; not all 100 may be mine, but then again you never know) that I can attribute a part of the BALANCED and DETAILED tone of Dingwall basses to Sheldon's fan fret approach (not putting it in numbers though, but it's there and it IS audible, esp in DIRECT comparison). And the basses I've been comparing my Dingwalls with, are top notch basses, with top notch materials and construction, same electronics/pickups/strings and even similar woods. And I will not compare my AB I to my Fodera Emperor Deluxe or my Ritter Roya, but my GL does give many basses a shock over it's tone, esp considering the price difference.
To get back to the OP, scale alone determines nothing but the scale. The combination of playability, ergonomics and MOST important TONE is what makes us choose one (or some) bass(es) over others. ALL other variables equal, I prefer 35" (or a Dingwall)
OK J! nice to "see you" again!
Lakland now MIGHT have a bass for you again....
Quick question to those that have or do - when you tried 35" scale length basses, did you use the same string gauges as you have, did or do on a 34" scale bass?
Quick question to those that have or do - when you tried 35" scale length basses, did you use the same string gauges as you have, did or do on a 34" scale bass?
Quick question to those that have or do - when you tried 35" scale length basses, did you use the same string gauges as you have, did or do on a 34" scale bass?
Of note, different gauges mean different things with different manufacturers. Diameter and core materials, outer windings, etc..
Quick question to those that have or do - when you tried 35" scale length basses, did you use the same string gauges as you have, did or do on a 34" scale bass?
Something I took for granted at first with B strings is touch. Your touch is going to dictate a lot of how the bass responds. When I started on fives I was coming out of the Geddy Lee and Flea camp of play the heck out of the string as hard as possible at times. It’s a damn good thing I got into R&B after that. After years of fives I developed a much lighter touch…so revisiting some basses made a difference later. 34” scale sometimes needs lighter touch.
There are great B strings in the 35” range… Lakland and Peavy Cirrus come to mind, but I prefer 34” scale for the most part.
Musicman specials
Sandbergs
Zon
And a few other always felt great as a 34” to me.
Also, always go for a 130 B or higher, any less and the difference is noticeable IMO.
YMMV