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4001 Mashup

#241
@mapleglo - I haven’t read everything in this thread like your Leafenbacker build, but I am really curious if you can shed some light (in its own thread?) on how you have done this in illustrator? I am a web developer with a visual arts background so Illustrator and 2d are home to me, while CAD and 3d seem an impossible tool for me to use to design/plan my builds in. Could you give thoughts to:
file setup
artboard
sizes/measurement
hardware import (like how you have your Hipshot tuners to scale/detail)

Sorry if you have covered any of this in your previous builds. I feel like an Illustrator thread/sticky would be really helpful to get people into the design phase. Thanks a bunch!

- Matt
 
#242
the baint said:
@mapleglo - I haven’t read everything in this thread like your Leafenbacker build, but I am really curious if you can shed some light (in its own thread?) on how you have done this in illustrator? I am a web developer with a visual arts background so Illustrator and 2d are home to me, while CAD and 3d seem an impossible tool for me to use to design/plan my builds in. Could you give thoughts to:
file setup
artboard
sizes/measurement
hardware import (like how you have your Hipshot tuners to scale/detail)

Sorry if you have covered any of this in your previous builds. I feel like an Illustrator thread/sticky would be really helpful to get people into the design phase. Thanks a bunch!

- Matt
Click to expand...

Well, It's easier than it seems. I just setup a page in Illustrator that's somewhere around 48 inches wide, and 16 inches high (depending on the size of the bass). For the Hipshot tuners, I actually scanned an actual tuner with my scanner, placed it in Illustrator, and then traced it. Then I deleted the scan, and was left with the tracing. Illustrator is real good about having the ability to display rulers on the page, and sizes. Printing them out to size is pretty accurate. I'm self-taught in Illustrator, so terms like "art board" I'm familiar with, but I don't know exactly what it means.

When I go to print a build, since it's larger than the paper, I have to do it in 8.5" x 11" slices. I'll cover the drawing in a grid of 1" squares to make it easier to splice back together once all the drawing is printed out.

8wbgjl.jpg


In the above screenshot, only the headstock is printed out, then I just move the drawing around to print each section, and scotch tape it together using the grid as a guide.

I can try to find some time to put together an Illustrator specific thread, at least on how I use it. I've found extremely valuable. I can't imagine having to draw everything by hand on a big piece of paper. How would I copy and paste? :P
 
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#243
Oh, and the Schaller bridge, for example, I went to the Schaller website, and they had a .pdf of the bridge, to be used as a template for mounting, if I remember correctly. Illustrator can read .pdf's, so I just copied and pasted it into my drawing. I also scanned the Ric template I have with the scanner, and then traced it. I stitched together the tracings, and then I modified the body shape.
 
#245
the baint said:
Thanks @mapleglo! I think eventually if people wanted to collaborate on illustrator templates/parts/tuts it could be a great sticky. I’d love to pitch in once I get the hang of it.
Click to expand...

Agreed!

I took the neck out of the clamps this afternoon.

jjrz49.jpg


And after about 45 minutes of sanding with the sanding block.

2zp4go4.jpg


Yeah, I'm really hurting for a jointer or thicknesser right about now. It's not too hot today, by Phoenix standards, but I'm soaked with sweat. Heh, other women "glow", I sweat :P Anyway, maybe I'll check around the pawn shops in the area and see if they have anything. Craig's list too.

Oh, and the StewMac order, and Ebay magnets shipped today. I expect the truss rods from BBG will ship tomorrow. I should be able to start the pickups this weekend. That kind of work is better suited for summertime Phoenix, as it's done indoors.
 
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#246
[QUOTE="mapleglo, post: 16283735, member: 249225"
Yeah, I'm really hurting for a jointer or thicknesser right about now. It's not too hot today, by Phoenix standards, but I'm soaked with sweat. Heh, other women "glow", I sweat :p Anyway, maybe I'll check around the pawn shops in the area and see if they have anything. Craig's list too.
[/QUOTE]

Or as in the Captain Beefheart lyric - "she doesn't sweat - she glistens " ;)
 
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#249
More parts came in.

oamz38.jpg


Radius block, bobbin material, cloth tape, magnets, and I stopped by Sears and picked up a pair of drill guides. I plan to use them to make a thicknesser. At the very least, I'll be able to wind the pickups this weekend. And looking at the body plan, the lack of symmetry is starting to bother me, so I may tweak that as well. I've got some work cut out for me.
 
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#250
So this was my idea for a home made thicknesser.

2n71ny9.jpg


I tried to make it from materials on hand, but I'm going to have to get some angle iron. Also, I didn't take the time to measure the board I was going to sand down, as it doesn't quite fit under the roller. :rollno:
That took a good part of the morning. Well, at least i know the idea is feasible.

Since I had a bunch of tools out and at the ready, I started on the pickups.

mm9z54.jpg


I cut the flatware to size, and drilled the holes.

Then I slopped some super glue after I placed the magnets.

bevdxv.jpg


Now I just have to send some time winding and potting. Oh, and I have to magnetize the pole pieces. Anyone have any recommendations for strong magnetizing magnets?
 
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#252
Aceonbass said:
Rickenbacker glues a magnet to the bottom of the bobbin. Why didn't you just use magnets for pole pieces?
Click to expand...

Last time I wound pickups, I used pre-magnatized poles, and they were difficult to work with. When I was setting them into the bobbin, they jumped all over the place. It seems many pickup kits come with the poles un-magnatized for this reason perhaps? Gluing a magnet to the bottom may be an option. I wonder if that method contributes to the unique sound of the Ric pickups.
 
#255
Did a little more work this morning. I'm actually avoiding working on the neck, which should really be my focus. However, Lmii is out of stock of their maple fretboards, so I sent them a message asking about timing. Also, I still haven't resolved the jointer issue. I saw one on Craig's list, which I'll inquire about.

Anyway, I figured I'd work on the body wings in the mean time.

2wedj7a.jpg


For some reason, my little band saw can't handle the maple. I may have the wrong blade. Another issue I have to look into.

5nrvyw.jpg


Upper wing cut.

2n9dd77.jpg


And the lower wing. I started working on smoothing out the cuts on the drill press/drum sander, but it started getting too hot. All last week we barely made it into the 90's, and of course these last few days, we're at 110°.

I may work on the pickups today - that's inside, A/C work :)
 
#257
Sounds like you got some hard maple there - I use a band saw making inward slots to the line all the way around to relieve the outline cut. New band saws are not cheap, but finding an old one that works (yard sale/craigslist etc) would be a very useful shop-tool.
 
#258
HaMMerHeD said:
Mapleglo,

I have a maple fingerboard blank from the same stock I made this one (http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd60/hardmark/015 - Paradigm 4 SC/80_slotting_4_zps8f85b3ae.jpg) from. I can slot it and send it to you if you'd like. LMII has been out of stock on maple bass boards for ages.
Click to expand...

I'll send you a PM. Or start a conversation. Or whatever the new lingo is :P

In the mean time, I wound the first pickup.

34zakd3.jpg


The last pickups I wound, 4 strings, I wound to 8500, and they were about 11k, so I figured since these were slightly wider, I'd wind them to 8000 winds.
2u75b2c.jpg


i went with thinner poles on these as well, so there's plenty of room.

2isdph3.jpg


Measures slightly higher at about 12k. I think that should work.
 
#259
JIO said:
Sounds like you got some hard maple there - I use a band saw making inward slots to the line all the way around to relieve the outline cut. New band saws are not cheap, but finding an old one that works (yard sale/craigslist etc) would be a very useful shop-tool.
Click to expand...

I picked up my bandsaw at the thrift store pretty cheap. I don't remember the cost - maybe $50? It's a Skil.

s1qpea.jpg


The blade is pretty wide, and it worked perfectly for the plexi pick guard I made for the Ric, and for cutting plywood, but it slows down real fast with the maple, and will stall if I don't pull back. I'll have to start by looking for a replacement blade made for hardwood, to see if that makes a difference.
 
#260
That's very cool - especially for that price! But as much as a new blade may help, it just may not 'cut it' as far as harder woods like maple. (underpowered) Worth trying anyhow, and making the 'slice' cuts would help.
 

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