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4001 Mashup

#281
Aceonbass said:
While humbucking pickups are usually potted, single coils aren't usually. RIC wraps electrical tape around the bobbin over the wire. Once you've potted a pickup, you can't get to the windings if you need to.
Click to expand...

Microphonics and 60hz hum are two entirely different things. You pot single coil pickups for the same reason you pot humbuckers. Just because Ric wraps their pickups with tape does not mean they aren't potted, the tape is only there to protect the coil. Two single coils used in the same bass are usually RWRP so they are humbucking when both coils are on.

Also wax potting doesn't prevent being able to repair a coil, it simply coats the coil with wax making a barrier between each individual wind. Moving coil wires is what causes microphonics. 60hz hum is just a constant hum through the amp. Microphonic pickups, reproduce outside noise back through the amp causing feedback.
 
#282
An integral part of the sound of a RIC guitar or bass is the pickups and the way they're constructed. Although many have have tried to make pickups for Ricks that they think makes them sound better or more" Rick like", no one ever really accomplishes that. RIC High Gains are constructed similar to Mapleglo's current pickup so far. I merely suggest that there is something in the way a high gain is constructed that this pickup could benefit from. Unmagnetized poles and an 11-12K rating fit the bill so far.
 
#283
Aceonbass said:
An integral part of the sound of a RIC guitar or bass is the pickups and the way they're constructed. Although many have have tried to make pickups for Ricks that they think makes them sound better or more" Rick like", no one ever really accomplishes that. RIC High Gains are constructed similar to Mapleglo's current pickup so far. I merely suggest that there is something in the way a high gain is constructed that this pickup could benefit from. Unmagnetized poles and an 11-12K rating fit the bill so far.
Click to expand...

Interesting, because the last pickups I made, for the Leaf, do not sound very "Ricish". Those have magnetized poles, with wider diameters, but measured abut the same. On the other hand, the Classic Amplification pickups do approach the Ric sound, which do feature the larger, magnetized poles. I'm also using the 44 gauge magnet wire, allegedly used on Ric pickups.
 
#285
A little more progress today. Since my band saw isn't powerful enough to cut through thick maple, I decided to try and take matters into my own hands.

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I got about 1/3 of the way through, and ran out of steam. I used the jig saw with my longest blade to cut through the rest.

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Then used the router to smooth it out a bit.

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And sanded it smooth with the sanding block.

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I've got my car in the shop, which is going to cost quite a bit. Leaky CV joint, leaky power steering hose, and a new timing belt. Why didn't Honda use timing chains - grrrrr. Anyway, I'll have to wait to get fret wire, files, and other fretting tools. Though I can still do a bit more on the neck in the mean time.
 
#287
A little more progress today. I routed the truss rod cavities.

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Set up a side rail for the router to ride against, and used a couple of scraps from when I cut the neck pieces.

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OK, first cavity routed.

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And the second.

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It's a pretty tight fit up by the adjustment nut, so I didn't want to push it all the way in, in fear that I wouldn't be able to remove it.

I think the next steps will be shaping the rear of the head stock, and the neck itself. I'll have to think about that whole process before I dive into it.

Also, I'm having a little trouble with my image hosting website, so let me know if the images aren't showing. It seems to be working now.
 
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#288
Started to cut the head stock this morning. I first drilled a relief hole and then set up the jig saw.

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It did not go well.

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The blade took an inward curve at the bottom. I should have used the table saw or the router. I wanted it to be 5/8" thick, but it turned out to be about 1/2" at it's thinnest area.

I think I'll take a break and think about what I'll do.
 
#291
Maple,
I've had similar experiences with a jigsaw bending in or out on a deep cut, ruined some good wood that way. I think they are really only good for thin materials. +1 on the laminate fix. Is this going to be a painted headstock? If not maybe a contrasting wood veneer face on the headstock to get back to 5/8"? Nice work, as usual. You are my bass making hero! Stay cool down there if possible.
 
#292
Gilmourisgod said:
Maple,
I've had similar experiences with a jigsaw bending in or out on a deep cut, ruined some good wood that way. I think they are really only good for thin materials. +1 on the laminate fix. Is this going to be a painted headstock? If not maybe a contrasting wood veneer face on the headstock to get back to 5/8"? Nice work, as usual. You are my bass making hero! Stay cool down there if possible.
Click to expand...

Yes, thanks, I should know that a jig saw is no good when cutting hard wood thicker than about 1 1/4" from past experience. I took a short cut and paid the price. I had thought to use the table saw or router, but took the easy path.

Anyway, I set up the router jig, and got to work.

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As it turns out, when routing it flat, the head stock is just about 9/16".

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I wanted it to match my Ric, which is 5/8", but at only 1/16" less, I think it'll be ok. It's thicker than my Fender Dimension, and a shorter headstock at that, so I think it'll be good to go.

I think I'll practice for a while, and think about the next steps, like shaping the back of the neck and body area.
 
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#293
Heck, my Tele headstock wound up at 1/2", which is the minimum needed for the Ultralites. I did a LPDC a couple of years ago that wound up with a 7/16" headstock. Oops. Had to add extra washers for the tuners there. But it works fine.
 
#294
I did a little more cutting today - slimmed down the neck through to match the body wings' thickness with the table saw.

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Which also left a sliver of the maple/mahogany/maple that I could use if I decide to add a little thickness to the head stock. But I think it'll be fine, per Todd's experience.

Then I cut a piece of birdseye maple for the fret board to size. I had to do a little calculations to get the total thickness, and I can only measure my Ric's fretboard at the side. Turned out to be just under a 1/2", which may come down a tad when I sand it down to the radius with the radius block. I also notice that the lower wing is not quite square - I'll have to see about squaring that up at some point before I glue it on. But first I need to see about cutting the fret slots into the board. I may end up buying that fret slot miter box from StewMac, or perhaps rigging something up myself.

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#300
I used a digital caliper and ruler with a print out of Stew Mac's fret positions from their calculator to mark out my lines and then cut them with Stew Mac's fret sawhttp://Invalid Link Removed .

I got the lines started with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAT8FC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Only eight pulls or so.

And then finished them up with the saw and depth stop set.

The mitre box I've linked to has narrower than normal slots so it fits the frettting saw pretty well.

I've checked my intonation with my first two builds all over the fretboard with a digital tuner and its as bang on as you can get with an expensive template and jig system.

This might be heresy, but fret positions aren't as vital as people think. You want to be pretty much on the dime asmuch as you can, but if you're off by a hair here and there, it's not the end of the world. Ever see a "truly intonated fret board?" Once I saw that, all of my fret board measuring and cutting trepidation went out the window.

truetemp.jpg

I can't see many upsides to radiusing your fretboard before you cut your slots, and there are a lot of reasons not to.
 
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