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4001 Mashup
- Thread starter mapleglo
- Start date
Not that I know anything about painting or finishing, but I would point directly at that deformed can of Varathane.
There was some kind of reaction in that can that caused it to expand like that. Maybe it started to flash off, or catalyze, or whatever you finisher/painter people say.
I think anything that was sprayed out of that can will no longer behave as expected or as advertised. It is probably causing issues with the additional coats you are building up as well.
Were it me, I would do as Mr. Johnson suggests and sand the whole thing back and begin again.
There was some kind of reaction in that can that caused it to expand like that. Maybe it started to flash off, or catalyze, or whatever you finisher/painter people say.
I think anything that was sprayed out of that can will no longer behave as expected or as advertised. It is probably causing issues with the additional coats you are building up as well.
Were it me, I would do as Mr. Johnson suggests and sand the whole thing back and begin again.
So after reviewing my notes and then re-reading Bruce's post, I realized I made a pretty amateur mistake. I don't know how I got it into my head that 5 or 6 coats of clear would be enough, but apparently, that's what I did. Bruce mentioned that 8 coats were not enough when he sanded through. So it makes a lot of sense that I would also sand through with only 6 coats. The body is pretty level now, after sanding it smooth twice now, so I'm just going to put on 12 - 15 coats, assuming I have enough varathane left, and focus especially on the areas that are susceptible to sanding through.
Here's the first coat.
I won't bore you with additional shots of each subsequent coat.
Here's the first coat.
I won't bore you with additional shots of each subsequent coat.
So it's only 100 degrees out today, so maybe it's 105 in the garage? As I'm spraying the 2nd coat, I hear the can making noises.
I left the can out there all day, but did not put it in hot water. Very weird...
And keep in mind the can is less than 1/2 full. Maybe 1/4 full.
I left the can out there all day, but did not put it in hot water. Very weird...
And keep in mind the can is less than 1/2 full. Maybe 1/4 full.
I vaguely remember the can saying something about 90 degrees being the upper end of the ideal temperature range. 105 might just be too much for it. I know I'd probably melt or explode in that heat...
So it's only 100 degrees out today, so maybe it's 105 in the garage? As I'm spraying the 2nd coat, I hear the can making noises.
I left the can out there all day, but did not put it in hot water. Very weird...
And keep in mind the can is less than 1/2 full. Maybe 1/4 full.
That was my thought too. Plus anything in a spray can is under pressure, so extreme heat is probably not good.
Indeed; from here: "Apply only when the air and surface temperatures are above 55°F, and below 90°F."
120 degrees probably represents the temp at which the can will fail, either bursting or venting the contents. 55-90 represents the ideal temp range for the product to cure. So 120 is for safety, 55-90 is for the product to perform.
In any event, I'd recommend storing the cans in the house during the day, spraying at night once the garage (and the bass) have had the chance to cool down to under 90.
In any event, I'd recommend storing the cans in the house during the day, spraying at night once the garage (and the bass) have had the chance to cool down to under 90.
And here I am whining about upper 80's with 80% humidity last couple of days on Cape Cod. "Yeah, but 105 is a DRY heat....." I've never seen a spray can do that, can't be good. Is 12-15 coats of clear common on rattlecan jobs? The Reranch tutorial on spray jobs has you buying a couple cans of clear for a typical job, doesn't seem like that would cover it.
Yeah, I'm definitely using it at above 90 degrees. Kids, don't try this at home!
That could be why the clear is tinting the base color, and the cans are popping. Oh well, can't be helped. I'll just keep my hands away from the ends of can, and store it indoors when not in use.
And yeah, I'm trying for at least 15 coats of clear now. Or how ever long the last can I have lasts.
That could be why the clear is tinting the base color, and the cans are popping. Oh well, can't be helped. I'll just keep my hands away from the ends of can, and store it indoors when not in use.
And yeah, I'm trying for at least 15 coats of clear now. Or how ever long the last can I have lasts.
So each build is a learning experience. Hopefully, I will take what I've learned on each build, and apply it to the next one.
As one example, I did the headstock wrong.
The tips of the truss rods should be even with the end of the fretboard, and the access routs should have been half their current length. That would have made the headstock stronger, and wouldn't have crowded the access routs to the tuner holes.
The other major blunder is the clear coat.
These last 6 or 7 coats, I've been keeping the cans inside, and not warming them up. Apparently, warming them did somehow change the paint toward giving an amber tint, changing the pink to salmon. The sanded through areas, which I thought would turn to the salmon, did not, because I'm not warming the paint. So those areas are staying pink. I could sand down the whole body to the dye, but I'm not feeling it. And frankly, I don't want to spend another $25 or $30 for more clear, and I don't feel like getting dye all over the place again. So it's going to be slightly relic'd. As the this is the first time I'm doing a gloss finish, again, it's a learning experience. I'll see how it looks.
So yeah, note to self - do not warm the varathane clear, and next time, do the truss rods right.
As one example, I did the headstock wrong.
The tips of the truss rods should be even with the end of the fretboard, and the access routs should have been half their current length. That would have made the headstock stronger, and wouldn't have crowded the access routs to the tuner holes.
The other major blunder is the clear coat.
These last 6 or 7 coats, I've been keeping the cans inside, and not warming them up. Apparently, warming them did somehow change the paint toward giving an amber tint, changing the pink to salmon. The sanded through areas, which I thought would turn to the salmon, did not, because I'm not warming the paint. So those areas are staying pink. I could sand down the whole body to the dye, but I'm not feeling it. And frankly, I don't want to spend another $25 or $30 for more clear, and I don't feel like getting dye all over the place again. So it's going to be slightly relic'd. As the this is the first time I'm doing a gloss finish, again, it's a learning experience. I'll see how it looks.
So yeah, note to self - do not warm the varathane clear, and next time, do the truss rods right.
So each build is a learning experience. Hopefully, I will take what I've learned on each build, and apply it to the next one.
As one example, I did the headstock wrong.
The tips of the truss rods should be even with the end of the fretboard, and the access routs should have been half their current length. That would have made the headstock stronger, and wouldn't have crowded the access routs to the tuner holes.
The other major blunder is the clear coat.
These last 6 or 7 coats, I've been keeping the cans inside, and not warming them up. Apparently, warming them did somehow change the paint toward giving an amber tint, changing the pink to salmon. The sanded through areas, which I thought would turn to the salmon, did not, because I'm not warming the paint. So those areas are staying pink. I could sand down the whole body to the dye, but I'm not feeling it. And frankly, I don't want to spend another $25 or $30 for more clear, and I don't feel like getting dye all over the place again. So it's going to be slightly relic'd. As the this is the first time I'm doing a gloss finish, again, it's a learning experience. I'll see how it looks.
So yeah, note to self - do not warm the varathane clear, and next time, do the truss rods right.
mapleglo, you probably have 1/10th or less the experience of most of the people who do really great builds on this forum, but your builds are amazing! With the Leafenbacker you made probably my favorite bass I've ever seen, and your Marceline's Axe Bass was truly awesome. The strength of the headstock only matters if it breaks. Otherwise, you probably did fine. And this is going to be quite a cool looking bass when it's finished.
Keep it up! I'm a big fan.
I will be delving back into waterborne finishes either later this year or early next.
Lots of good info in this thread, and in the subforum.
Keep up the good work, and don't get discouraged!
Lots of good info in this thread, and in the subforum.
Keep up the good work, and don't get discouraged!
OK, put on the last of the 16 coats of clear last night. I'll let that cure, and start on wet sanding either tonight or tomorrow.
I used up the last of the clear, so I hope this is it.
I used up the last of the clear, so I hope this is it.
May not look like you originally envisioned, but still very pretty. Nice subtle burst going on on the top.
Hopkins
Commercial User
What is your strategy as far as wet sanding goes? It takes more work, but starting with a very fine grit paper like 1500 will greatly reduce the risk of sanding through.
I ended up using all three cans. If I had planned this better, 2 likely would have been enough. Next time, I'll order that West Systems epoxy and put on a coat or two first. I'll bet that'll reduce the need for as much clear coat as well.
Thanks, it definitely grew on me.
Funny you should ask, as I was thinking about this myself. I had thought I'd start with 1000 grit, but now I think I'll try starting with 1500. That's the lowest grit on my mesh pads I just received. They go up to 12000 or something. Heh, it goes to 11...
It starts...
I ended up using all three cans. If I had planned this better, 2 likely would have been enough. Next time, I'll order that West Systems epoxy and put on a coat or two first. I'll bet that'll reduce the need for as much clear coat as well.
Thanks, it definitely grew on me.
Funny you should ask, as I was thinking about this myself. I had thought I'd start with 1000 grit, but now I think I'll try starting with 1500. That's the lowest grit on my mesh pads I just received. They go up to 12000 or something. Heh, it goes to 11...
It starts...
I usually start with 600 if it needs it. Otherwise I start with 1000 then go to 1500, 2000, 2500. Use a very light hand with the wet sanding.
That did come out pretty good. Like the subtleness to the burst on the body.
