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4x10 + 2x10...?

The key here is cab impedence. Just takes a bit of math with fractions to figure out, but if both cabs are 8 ohms, they'll each get 150 watts (max) from the head. Ideally you want each speaker getting the same wattage, so an 8 ohm 2x10 and a 4 ohm 4x10 would put 100 watts (max) into the 2x10 and 200 watts in to the 4x10. Total load to amp is 2.7 ohms though.

Custom made cabinets using 6 ohm speakers could be made to have the total load be 4 or 8 ohms.

Also, if you have room for a 4x10 and 2x10, you should have room for an 8x10, unless your vehicle can't carry that big a cab.

Except it isn't 300 watts max output. It is closer to 600 watts.
 
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Except it is. The amp puts out 300 watts @ 3% THD. That isnt its maximum power output. As you push it in to higher levels of THD it will put out more power (as an example, Mesa pads the output ratings of their amps by listing output at 7.5% distortion). As you push an SVT, it will put out a lot more power than 300 watts.
 
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Well, to clarify, it would be putting out 300 watts RMS "max" - ie, if he's playing with the volume at 4, he's not pushing the full 300 watts RMS through the cabinets. I presume the cabinet ratings are not max/peak.

Knob position means little. The amp will well exceed 300 watts before it sounds "dirty". The cabs ratings are RMS values, which tell you how much heat the voice coils can absorb, but not the mechanical limitations of the speakers.
 
I've got a valve junior, with an el84, rated for five watts - but for HiFi applications they can only handle about three tops. I know this because I'm considering building a tube stereo amp, and I've done some reading. The svt is rated for 300 watts at 3 percent THD, meaning that the signal can indeed be hotter, but THD would be higher and breakup will occur at side point after that. In other words, ampeg isn't wrong in rating their amp at 300 watts because that's a reasonable distortion level (more than, in fact) within which the signal is fairly HiFi assuming the preamp gain isn't too hot. I hope I could clear that up.

Also, with regard to the 210 and 410 idea, the 210 would ideally be twice the impedance of the 410 for reasons already discussed, though not the end of the world otherwise. Of course, you risk breaking the 210, but if you use your ears and play in sane volumes, it shouldn't be an issue. If I had to make a recommendation though, it would be for two identical 410 cabinets, or an 810 for big gigs and a 210 for shall stuff and rehearsal.
 
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The ampeg specs are 100% correct. 300 watts @3% THD. You can play the amp well past 3% THD, so much so that you will approach doubling the output power. No where in their specifications do they list a "max power"..
Actually true. A fully dimed SVT could probably make 600 watts. But it wouldn't sound very good, unless your idea of good sound is Lemmy or that guy from Lightning Bolt. This is true of most amps when they're pushed into hard clipping. RMS power can actually double. But you almost certainly wouldn't use it that way. Thus the published spec.
 
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The ampeg specs are 100% correct. 300 watts @3% THD. You can play the amp well past 3% THD, so much so that you will approach doubling the output power. No where in their specifications do they list a "max power".

To not understand the potential of the amp is ignorance. To mock it is arrogant idiocy.

This is CORRECT whether one cares to understand or accept the truth does not change the truth. It is also truth that most players will not use 250 of those watts without PA support taking over.
Manufacturer's specs are a convenience, not fully routed in a usable standard at times. I don't know if it is actually @ 3%. Most times tube amps are at < 5%.
"RMS" is a mathematical formula taken from a peak to peak waveform. IIRC most all tube SVT power supplies max out at about 680 watts (and it sounds really dirty there).
 
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I've got a valve junior, with an el84, rated for five watts - but for HiFi applications they can only handle about three tops. I know this because I'm considering building a tube stereo amp, and I've done some reading. The svt is rated for 300 watts at 3 percent THD, meaning that the signal can indeed be hotter, but THD would be higher and breakup will occur at side point after that. In other words, ampeg isn't wrong in rating their amp at 300 watts because that's a reasonable distortion level (more than, in fact) within which the signal is fairly HiFi assuming the preamp gain isn't too hot. I hope I could clear that up.

Also, with regard to the 210 and 410 idea, the 210 would ideally be twice the impedance of the 410 for reasons already discussed, though not the end of the world otherwise. Of course, you risk breaking the 210, but if you use your ears and play in sane volumes, it shouldn't be an issue. If I had to make a recommendation though, it would be for two identical 410 cabinets, or an 810 for big gigs and a 210 for shall stuff and rehearsal.

The OP's amp should not be run with an 8 ohm load, 4 ohm or 2 ohm only. BTW single ended (SE) class A amps are high in a pleasing type of distortion, but they are stretching the specs hard to advertise 5 watts output from a single EL84/6BQ5 in audio service.
 
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You're overthinking. According to some folks here Ampeg/LOUD rates their cabs realistically. A 200 watt 210 getting 150 watts is still not a problem.

If you're pushing them hard, yes the 210 cab would be in danger because each of its woofers would be getting twice the power of the other woofers.

However you're using a 300 watt amp, so each cab would see half of that, or 150 watts. The 210 is rated at 200 watts, so I think you're safe.

I quote myself from a similar thread. (These Ampeg questions come up a lot...)


The transducers in the SVT-210HE are rather robust. I often run my MarkBass LMII into limiting through a single SVT-210HE, and it happily takes all of the 300 or so Watts the LMII delivers into 8 Ohms. No issues at all, no farting, creasing etc. And I use a lot of lows in my sound, often turn up the lows to 1 o'clock, also when cranking the amp.

Maybe it has been missed but people have been providing real world help. These are just a few I picked quickly.
 
Actually true. A fully dimed SVT could probably make 600 watts. But it wouldn't sound very good, unless your idea of good sound is Lemmy or that guy from Lightning Bolt. This is true of most amps when they're pushed into hard clipping. RMS power can actually double. But you almost certainly wouldn't use it that way. Thus the published spec.

Some people like a little dirt from their amp.
 
Around here they can be had as cheap as chips second hand. Maybe try one of them?
NO. Ashdown cabs are NOT Berg cabs. There's a reason they are to be found cheap.

I actually think that the Ashdown ABM610 cabs are pretty good. The cheaper (blue speaker) ABM's get better press than the more expensive CL 610's. That said, I've not heard one with and Ampeg SVT, only ABM EVO's and GK heads.
 
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Hey guys; rather than watch a fight escalate over several pages, and quote posts that are problematic; hit the report post button and hail a moderator in before things get to a point where we have several pages of junk to clean up.
thanks.
 
This is CORRECT whether one cares to understand or accept the truth does not change the truth. It is also truth that most players will not use 5250 of those watts without PA support taking over.
Manufacturer's specs are a convenience, not fully routed in a usable standard at times. I don't know if it is actually @ 3%. Most times tube amps are at < 5%.
"RMS" is a mathematical formula taken from a peak to peak waveform. IIRC most all tube SVT power supplies max out at about 680 watts (and it sounds really dirty there).

The concern is you don't have to have knobs set all the way up to get a full 300 or more watts. And due to the nature of tube compression and distortion, it may sound quite pleasing as you hit those high levels of output power.

Listening to the cab is the right way to do it, but in practice there are many questions posted in AMPS along the lines of "Why did I blow my 210/115 paired with my 410?” For anyone to dismiss the possibility, is poor advice.
 
Put your 210 on top of your 410. Play it. Listen to it. Push it and continue to listen to it. Use your common sense and brain. Be mindful of physics and have realistic expectations. It CAN blow. I can blow all of my cabs with my current amps. Most guys can (and don't).....
In my opinion. Your mileage may vary. #Realworldadvice #nothingiscertainexceptdeathandtaxes :):):):):):):):):):):D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: