Yes, Ibby even offers some headless fanned fret models this might help some with the issue of having to reach tuners on longer necks...Aren’t there some other fanned fret five and six string instruments? Doesn’t Ibanez make one?
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Yes, Ibby even offers some headless fanned fret models this might help some with the issue of having to reach tuners on longer necks...Aren’t there some other fanned fret five and six string instruments? Doesn’t Ibanez make one?
What gauge do you use?My 33-inch B string on my Ibby does just fine, thank you very much: no flop, good tone, consistent with the rest of the strings, defined in articulation.
Gauge is not the be all/end all for tension. It depends on the brand, core type, type of metals used,winding type etc….A .130 @B on a 34" is 36.1 lbs tension and on a 35" is 38.3 lbs. The 2.2 lb difference is equivalent to a .006875" difference in string gauge. Which means that if you want the same tension as a .130 on a 35" on a 34", you will need a .136/.137 gauge.
I have a 34" 5 string and it came with a .130 and it was still a bit loose for B. I now have a stainless steel hex core .146T tuned to A=27Hz and it's working out well. Had to file the nut and it barely fits thru the tailpiece. Sounds really good thru a Blackstar U250.
Stringjoy Guitar String Tension Calculator
I prefer high tension strings. I use them on all my 34” scale 5 string basses and haven’t had any problems.Floppy B strings are intolerable.
Leo made the modern bass at guitar 34” scale to accommodate 4 strings. It is perfect for that specific purpose. Years ago I switched to 5 string and got an American Deluxe Jazz V. It was beautiful, sounded great, but the low B felt a bit like a rubber band.
Years later, Musicman Stingray 5. I loved that bass. It was slightly better with the low B. Still didn’t feel right. At the same time I played an Ibanez 6 string for solo bass arrangements. The high C was fun but that low B was rubber city.
Gauge is not the be all/end all for tension. It depends on the brand, core type, type of metals used,winding type etc….
Yeah different types and brands will have different tension, but in general, the amount of difference will be relatively similar. Tension is a formula: you can change the numbers but the ratios will be the same. So whatever the % of difference there is will be the same across all types of strings. Whatever the tension may be of any given string, the difference in tension it will have on a 34" & 35" is ~6%.You do realise the SJ calculator only does tensions for their strings, not other brands and constructions?
D'Addario XL170BT with a 130 B string.What gauge do you use?
I use these on my newer 4003S5, which like most RIC basses, has a 33.25" scale. The B string response with the new pickuow rivals that on my active 5 string basses, which aren't getting as much use these days.D'Addario XL170BT with a 130 B string.
Floppy B strings are intolerable.
Leo made the modern bass at guitar 34” scale to accommodate 4 strings. It is perfect for that specific purpose. Years ago I switched to 5 string and got an American Deluxe Jazz V. It was beautiful, sounded great, but the low B felt a bit like a rubber band.
Years later, Musicman Stingray 5. I loved that bass. It was slightly better with the low B. Still didn’t feel right. At the same time I played an Ibanez 6 string for solo bass arrangements. The high C was fun but that low B was rubber city.
Then I got a Lakland 55-02. Dammit, they got it right. The 5th string is taught, clear, and feels like a natural extension of the bass. It’s big, no doubt. I had to adapt to it but it’s the best 5 string I have ever owned.
My query is, what’s next? Does Sadowsky make a 35” 5 string? I want to get my high end, forever bass at this point in my life. I have pondered owning a Sadowsky for the build quality and tone. Does the B string sing with clarity? Should I go with an American Lakland? What are your thoughts?
I didn't think I had to specify "and the same pitch". When you fret up the neck you're not changing the tension because you're changing the pitch.Sorry but No. That's not how it works. Otherwise you'd have a negative number for tension at the 10th fret.
If you want a real world feel for 35" vs. 34" scale, Just fret the F (1st fret) on your 4 string. There's no discernible difference.
As you fret higher up the neck, You are essentially reducing the scale(17" at 12th fret) of the speaking length of the string. There is no noticeable difference provided you have a setup within spec.