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5 string buckeye burl/mahogany neck through

#121
gregvds said:
Beautiful, Lisa! That magneted trap is very good looking like that. you progress on these.
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Drake Custom said:
I finally had a chance to view through the whole build thus far. Really nice work and inventive, especially the router sled jig.
I like the control cover, with the magnets, that you have made. Very cleanly done. The first time I tried a magnet cover I did not think to double check that the magnets in with the correct pole orientation. The first time I tried to place the cover in place it shot back out at me.
Your cover....it looks as if you press on the cover toward the lower side, the cover will tip up enough so that you can remove it easily. Nice, no need for a finger nail recess. I do something similar. Again, great work!
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Thanks guys!

Yeah, I have seen a few builds lately with similar ways of opening the cover and I really like that there's no need to make a little area to fit your finger under the cover to pull it off, so I decided to give it a try on this one. I'm hoping it will also prevent certain people from pulling the cover off out of curiosity as soon as they get it in their hands... I had someone do that while standing in the street next to my car once and the cover went straight to the pavement...

It turns out that I could have went with a few less magnets, it's a little difficult to open. At least it won't fall off though!
 
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#122
I was wondering about that. I find that 4 magnets that are 3/16 of an inch in diameter can hold on a 3/16 inch thick cover pretty securely. You are correct that it is a good thing that the cover will not come off accidentally. Most preamps have a at least 600 hours off operation before a needed battery change, so if you play two hours every day you have just two months shy of a years worth of battery life. The cover will not have to come off more than a few times a year so it does not have to be super quick. Rather have it more difficult than easy to fall off.
 
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#126
gregvds said:
Any finish thoughts or idea for this one? Will you venture on glossy also here? What was the plan?
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Yeah, this will be glossy. I was going to use oil based poly over shellac, but I changed my mind recently. The shellac looks good, so I'll keep that as my base coat, but I've gotten a couple of suggestions for the top coats. The first is KTM-9 and the other is Target 6000. They seem to be pretty similar to each other, they're both water-based "lacquer-like" clear coats that are supposed to look very similar to nitro without the fumes, flammability, or softness. The coats melt into each other if you do them on the same day and it looks like you only need to spray for approximately 2 days if you do 4-5 coats a day, which would be nice, and they don't need to sit around curing for a long time. The Target finish looks like it costs less, but shipping is $20, which actually makes the KTM-9 end up being cheaper in the end (based on the sites I've looked at so far). I'm not sure yet if I can find either one locally or not. On LMII.com, it says that some people have reported KTM-9 sinking at Titebond glue lines and I don't know if the Target one does too or not and I don't know how noticeable it would be. It would seem like if the glue lines are invisible, the finish wouldn't have room to sink? But I'm just making assumptions. I'll have to look into it.
 
#127
Today, I roughly cleaned up the two halves of the neck, jointed the piece of maple that needed it, then glued the last of it together.

I didn't want to take too much time making this perfect yet since I'll just have to level it again after I get the two halves glued together, but I cut off the excess veneers and glue with the bandsaw, then used the hand plane for a little bit on it. This section is sanded to 120 and is a good representation of what the whole thing looks like.

tumblr_n9g85sanWV1qi8q1ao2_1280.jpg


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So, that's just half of the neck blank. I'll cut the taper down the inside of each and glue them together after I get the bridge and nut.

Here is the last strip glue-up.

tumblr_n9g85sanWV1qi8q1ao1_1280.jpg


tumblr_n9g85sanWV1qi8q1ao3_1280.jpg
 
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#129
gregvds said:
I don't catch how everything will fall together, but that looks good already :)
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Thank you! I think it will be more easily explained in pictures when it happens.



A couple of small updates:

Apparently Stewmac's Colortone water based lacquer is Target 6000 with a different label on it, so I'm most likely going to go with that since I have to order other things from Stewmac anyway and the shipping will be more reasonable. I'm going to get a Preval sprayer to spray it through, although the finish can be brushed on if the Preval doesn't work good enough.

Evan asked to put steel stiffening rods in the neck along with the truss rod, so we'll be getting some of those from Warmoth, it looks like.

The bass is at a stopping point right now, possibly for a few weeks. I'll update when I have some things I can work on again.

Thanks for watching!
 
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#130
No updates, but I was just doing an image search and I found a bass with a top with turquoise-filled voids and the voids look a lot like the pattern on the buckeye burl for this bass. I thought it looked pretty cool and wanted to share.

jarra_bass_LG.jpg

http://savageguitar.com/#folio

So, I guess that gives us somewhat of an idea of how the turquoise might look here, except on differed colored wood and the buckeye doesn't have nearly as many voids.
 
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#133
gregvds said:
Uggh! Toothpaste in the holes!!! Not for me this time Lisa, I'd prefer black any time. But that's interesting
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BioWeapon said:
Definitly a love it or hate it look.
I'd rock that bass!
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He wants it and I think it will at least be fun to do. I can't find any crushed into powder, so it's probably going to be small chunks and I think that will help the look to give it more texture anyway.
 
#137
lbridenstine said:
I want to see how it looks with the chunks before I try to crush it any further. I ordered some for myself so I can use it on bowls and pens and I'll probably try some on some of the buckeye scrap to see how it looks and go from there.
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Pens, you say? Pray tell, what kind of pens (I'm a bit of a fountain pen and dip pen fanatic, being an amateur calligrapher)
 
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