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5 string buckeye burl/mahogany neck through
- Thread starter lbridenstine
- Start date
Thanks guys!
I cut up the piece of maple today:
It went like this:
-Set up the fence on the bandsaw, cut one strip, start cutting second strip, then the bandsaw explodes (A.K.A. the blade snapped in half and got all bent up inside of the bandsaw and the tension knob flew off the top. So yay, now I have to buy a new blade again).
-Set up the fence on the table saw and discover that the table saw’s table isn’t metal because my magnetic fence wouldn’t stick to it.
-Cut the rest of the strips with the table saw.
-Put my re-saw blade on the bandsaw and split one of the strips in half.
-Block sand half of them (the half with the majority of the clamps).
Sometime soon I’ll actually glue them together, but I don’t feel like it tonight, so they’re just dry clamped. Luckily this maple stayed flat! Woo. I'm happy to say that the buckeye burl seems to be staying flat too! This is good news, because on my other buckeye burl bass, the burl twisted when there was no pressure on it (before glue up). This one doesn't at all.
So anyways, back to the bandsaw blade. It was making a ticking noise as it cut the wood before it broke and I thought it was because of the curl in the maple because it was making that sound at the speed that each curly figure would go through the blade. I'm not sure if the blade broke because of the maple (maybe the figure + hardness), or maybe from the long winter and now the heat, or what? I'm pretty sure I just got it at the end of last year and it seemed like a nice blade.
I cut up the piece of maple today:
It went like this:
-Set up the fence on the bandsaw, cut one strip, start cutting second strip, then the bandsaw explodes (A.K.A. the blade snapped in half and got all bent up inside of the bandsaw and the tension knob flew off the top. So yay, now I have to buy a new blade again).
-Set up the fence on the table saw and discover that the table saw’s table isn’t metal because my magnetic fence wouldn’t stick to it.
-Cut the rest of the strips with the table saw.
-Put my re-saw blade on the bandsaw and split one of the strips in half.
-Block sand half of them (the half with the majority of the clamps).
Sometime soon I’ll actually glue them together, but I don’t feel like it tonight, so they’re just dry clamped. Luckily this maple stayed flat! Woo. I'm happy to say that the buckeye burl seems to be staying flat too! This is good news, because on my other buckeye burl bass, the burl twisted when there was no pressure on it (before glue up). This one doesn't at all.
So anyways, back to the bandsaw blade. It was making a ticking noise as it cut the wood before it broke and I thought it was because of the curl in the maple because it was making that sound at the speed that each curly figure would go through the blade. I'm not sure if the blade broke because of the maple (maybe the figure + hardness), or maybe from the long winter and now the heat, or what? I'm pretty sure I just got it at the end of last year and it seemed like a nice blade.
I have a healthy respect for band saws. I saw a blade break once, and it flew across the room. I'm thinking of getting one of those full face shields for when I use mine.
Hopefully, you didn't injured yourself! Take care of your fingers, they are immensely more precious than all the flamed maple and burl in the world
No injuries, I promise. It just basically made a pop sound and the blade stopped moving, but the wheels were still spinning inside the bandsaw. The blade stuck in the maple and it broke somewhere around the bottom wheel. Around the top wheel, the blade had popped up from the wheel and bent itself into a square, conforming to the shape of the inside of the enclosure. But yeah, good thing those doors are there and closed!
My fingers were nowhere near the blade and I had safety glasses on.
Woah! That would be scary! Do you know what caused it to break?
A ticking sound is usually either a bad weld or a damaged blade. A weld that hasn't been ground completely smooth can usually be dressed out with a sharpening stone. Unless it's a 20" or bigger saw or a carbide tipped blade, I'd trash it if it has any bends or twists.
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It didn't break at the weld and the weld part looked fine. I already tossed the blade. It was completely bent up.
Alright, I got half of this glued up.
I have a really hard time opening the tip of the glue bottle (it basically gets glued shut every time, even if I wipe it), so I took the whole cap off and used way too much glue.
I'm going to probably glue 2 of the other pieces tomorrow, then I'll have to joint the edge on the thinner piece (after it's glued up) so it matches the thickness of the thinner piece in this group before I glue the last board on.
I have a really hard time opening the tip of the glue bottle (it basically gets glued shut every time, even if I wipe it), so I took the whole cap off and used way too much glue.
I'm going to probably glue 2 of the other pieces tomorrow, then I'll have to joint the edge on the thinner piece (after it's glued up) so it matches the thickness of the thinner piece in this group before I glue the last board on.
Tip: if the tip gets glued shut, squeezing it in a clamp/vice will crack the glue to make it easier to open.
I seem to remember it broke at the weld. I'm not really sure why it broke, but it may have not been setup properly. It was a large saw, floor standing.
And for what it's worth, my glue bottle gets glued shut also. Every time. I'm usually able to peel off the dried glue though.
I used to always be able to peel the glue, but lately it seems like it's somehow getting underneath the tip and hardening there. Maybe there's a small leak or something.
I tried this today and it works great. Thank you for the tip (on the tip)!
This one is out of clamps, although I did have some difficulty with that. A few of the clamps got glued to the wood... They all broke free easily except for one, but I did eventually get it off.
And now this is in clamps, with much less squeeze out.
Hey Lisa, looking fantastic! Lot of good progress.
A suggestion for your glue bottle problem. We've pretty much switched over to these glue bottles at work.
They rarely ever get glued up and are easy to control.
http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Glu-Bot-Glue-Bottle-Ounces/dp/B0006IUW8G
A suggestion for your glue bottle problem. We've pretty much switched over to these glue bottles at work.
They rarely ever get glued up and are easy to control.
http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Glu-Bot-Glue-Bottle-Ounces/dp/B0006IUW8G
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Drake Custom
Commercial User
- Aug 24, 2010
- 440
- 1,082
- Disclosures
- Builder/Owner:Drake Custom Bass Guitars
I finally had a chance to view through the whole build thus far. Really nice work and inventive, especially the router sled jig.
I like the control cover, with the magnets, that you have made. Very cleanly done. The first time I tried a magnet cover I did not think to double check that the magnets in with the correct pole orientation. The first time I tried to place the cover in place it shot back out at me.
Your cover....it looks as if you press on the cover toward the lower side, the cover will tip up enough so that you can remove it easily. Nice, no need for a finger nail recess. I do something similar. Again, great work!
I like the control cover, with the magnets, that you have made. Very cleanly done. The first time I tried a magnet cover I did not think to double check that the magnets in with the correct pole orientation. The first time I tried to place the cover in place it shot back out at me.
Your cover....it looks as if you press on the cover toward the lower side, the cover will tip up enough so that you can remove it easily. Nice, no need for a finger nail recess. I do something similar. Again, great work!
