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5 string buckeye burl/mahogany neck through

I'll try to remember to let you guys know when I start making fountain pens. I really would like one for myself too. What do you normally pay for them? I need to look into places to buy the parts. I know Woodcraft has them, but they're pricey.

Here's some turquoise experiments. It's more difficult than it looks because it's like picking through sand to try to find a piece that will fit here and there, and then they don't fit... Then they keep falling out, then I put them back, then drop epoxy on them and the turquoise starts floating around instead of staying put, then I try to push them down and they stick to whatever I'm pushing them with...

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I'm not sure why the color is different in every picture. I think my phone was trying to auto white balance and not doing it right.

As you can see, the burl doesn't have nearly as many or as big of voids as that bass I posted a couple days ago, so that's good. The voids do have a nice pattern to them (on the actual bass top piece) that looks like it's exploding from the center (subtly), so I think that will work nicely with this.



Now I have to wait and see what it looks like when it's sanded.





to combat the floating, do each pocket at a time, pour resin, place stones, cover with wax paper, set something heavy like a squat glass full of stones on top. when it dries peel off the paper.
 
I'm only into fountain pens myself. Check lamy 2000, these are my daily scribing tools. Got a krylon version in medium, and the latest stainless in fine. Amazing smoothness with the bulletproof inks from Noodler's Ink. I positively hate roller pens, they are mindless and characterless lackluster hateful tools that any fountain buries in the instant (a tad over-emphasizing here, you noticed I' m sure)!

that is an all glass fountain pen i made i'm holding in my avatar pic. the only metal is the silver banding on the outside. even the nib is glass. black ink is visible. capillary action.

i make dip pens too. you can get about 100-400$ retail for a good pen
 
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Hey guys. I got a message from Evan yesterday and he said he thinks he's leaning more towards a satin or semi-gloss finish for this now. I am currently refinishing my other guitars with Target EM6000 (A.K.A. Colortone) and I was hoping to use that on the bass too if all goes as planned because of the burn in between coats and short spraying time and also for the protection of the wood, especially the burl. Stewmac has a satin option in a spray can, but not in a pal and it looks like the pal would be a better option than buying several spray cans.

So, I was wondering if anyone has any opinions on the best way to achieve a satin finish. My first 3 builds were satin - the first 2 with Tru-oil followed by steel wool, and the 3rd with poly, steel wool, and paste wax. I feel like they could all look better than they do, so that's why I'm looking for opinions.

I was thinking about wetsanding to maybe 1200 grit or so, then wiping on polishing compound by hand, then wiping it off without really buffing it in too much. I'm wondering if that would give it a satin look with a little bit of sheen. Or, if steel wool is the best option, every time I've used it it seems like it needs something wiped on after the steel wool to take away the cloudy look, but nothing I've tried so far has really kept it looking nice after a short period of time.


I'm going to spray some test pieces of the burl and maybe mahogany while I'm spraying the guitars, so I'm just trying to get an idea of things I should try on those test pieces to get that look he wants. For reference, I showed him this picture of a satin Target 6000 finish and he said that's about what he's looking for.

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"I was thinking about wetsanding to maybe 1200 grit or so, then wiping on polishing compound by hand, then wiping it off without really buffing it in too much. I'm wondering if that would give it a satin look with a little bit of sheen. Or, if steel wool is the best option, every time I've used it it seems like it needs something wiped on after the steel wool to take away the cloudy look, but nothing I've tried so far has really kept it looking nice after a short period of time."


I do something similar to this with EM6000 on the back of the guitar necks, so the hand slides on the back of the neck smoothly. I spray it from a few inches farther away. This give it a slightly less glossy finish. then when the finish is fully hardened I very lightly sand with 2000 or 4000 grit. then very lightly buff. it gives the back of the neck a great feel. It also makes a semi gloss look. I would not use steel wool. On the target coatings finishing forums many people say steel wool has impurities in it and this can effect the outcome of the finish.
 
That is a nice finish. What kind of wood is that stock made of? Stain? I'm all about satin ever since I first rubbed down my too shiny jazz neck with a scotch brite 3m green pad. I feel like high gloss gives more friction.

I just found that picture on google, so I have no info about it other than it was finished with the satin version of EM6000.

I love everything about this build! Very inspiring. I just joined TalkBass to follow it since you stopped updating it on TDPRI ... but I can't miss out on that gorgeous burl bass :D

Thank you! I didn't stop updating, I just haven't done anything since then. I'll update more once something happens, I promise. :)

"I was thinking about wetsanding to maybe 1200 grit or so, then wiping on polishing compound by hand, then wiping it off without really buffing it in too much. I'm wondering if that would give it a satin look with a little bit of sheen. Or, if steel wool is the best option, every time I've used it it seems like it needs something wiped on after the steel wool to take away the cloudy look, but nothing I've tried so far has really kept it looking nice after a short period of time."


I do something similar to this with EM6000 on the back of the guitar necks, so the hand slides on the back of the neck smoothly. I spray it from a few inches farther away. This give it a slightly less glossy finish. then when the finish is fully hardened I very lightly sand with 2000 or 4000 grit. then very lightly buff. it gives the back of the neck a great feel. It also makes a semi gloss look. I would not use steel wool. On the target coatings finishing forums many people say steel wool has impurities in it and this can effect the outcome of the finish.


Hmm, okay, I'll give this a try on one of the test pieces. I'll most likely be doing two test pieces different ways and I'll try to avoid steel wool. After you mentioned that, I remembered that the last water based finish I used said not to use steel wool, so I probably shouldn't. I'm not sure what else I should try on the second test piece.
 
Okay, I found out that he does want finely crushed turquoise, so it'll look different than these in the end.

I kind of didn't sand these that great, but oh well.

This is 2 or 3 coats of Target EM6000. The piece on the right has epoxy under the finish.

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I thought this looked pretty cool.

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So, I'm going to get another couple of coats of finish on there, then see about making them satin after they're cured.
 
That is a nice finish. What kind of wood is that stock made of? Stain? I'm all about satin ever since I first rubbed down my too shiny jazz neck with a scotch brite 3m green pad. I feel like high gloss gives more friction.
This gives me an idea, I have a gloss black bass that I'd like to be satin black. Is it possible to just go over the gloss black finish with some green scotch bright to get a satin finish or will I need to strip it and repaint with satin?
 
This gives me an idea, I have a gloss black bass that I'd like to be satin black. Is it possible to just go over the gloss black finish with some green scotch bright to get a satin finish or will I need to strip it and repaint with satin?
You can move to satin with the pad, but the fact that the finish is black will show your work much more than a lighter finish, you'll really have to do a good job.

Back on topic, digging those finished samples!
 
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