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50w-100w Valve Owners Thread

I'd like to join! I just got the final pics from Mark Ashley over at HammerTone Amps of my new "B100 Bass Amp"! I will be receiving it some time next week. It was built on an old Hammond HR40 amp chassis, and uses (4) 6L6G Tung Sol (Russian) power tubes, (1) Hammond 5U4G, and (2) vintage 12AX7 preamp tubes.

Mark said he configured it to a very modest 100 watts in the interest of long-term durability. I don't know much about the more technical specifications, and have no "hardware" pics to show yet, but when it arrives, I'll do a ful "NAD" post.

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Mark has named this the "B-100", and I do believe this is his first bass amp build. He primary builds very elegant and clean 18W six-string amps, often using old Hammond organ amp chassis's. I had several old Hammond tone cabinet chassis's, and this is what drew me to HammerTone Amps in the first place.

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This was built over a time period of six months, as Mark builds these on weekends (not his "day job"!). Since I was going for a completely "open air" design, I chose to go with the elaborate "Coke Bottle"-shaped power amp valves. After doing much research online, I had seen enough good reviews on the new Tung Sols to give them a try.

Aside from that, I wanted separate bass, mid and treble controls, along with a standby switch and a general volume control. I wanted both high and low input even though I have only one active bass, and several passive ones at this time. Mark also configured this amp to run either 4 ,8 or 16 ohm cabinets.

HammerTone Amps Facebook page

I'm very excited about this, as it will be my first all-tube amp. Conservatively rated at 100 watts, I'm sure this amp will get me through most of what I'll ever be needing. I'm still a rookie player (at 60 years of age, no less!), and can't see myself ever playing out in huge venues.
 
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I have two.

Fender PA100 from the mid-late 70s. It was originally a PA head with four separate channels. I tweeked a few things here and there to make it shine as a bass amp (and a really nice guitar amp as well). Sounds like butter. Really fat, round, and warm. I plan to go back into it and tweek some more so that each channel has slightly more gain than the last. It sounds amazing with bass, keys, guitar, and even with a harmonica using a green bullet mic. The reverb (not used for bass) is nothing short of stunning when used tastefully.

Ampeg V4 Maganavox era. Still has the original tubes in it. This thing will take the skin off your face at 50 yards. It is bar none the strongest 100W amp I have ever seen. Its tone is a bit more "aggressive" than the PA100 but just as amazing. I'm trying to decide whether or not to mess with the gain stage of one of the channels on this one to break it up just a bit (nothing distorted but just a tiny bit of break up).

They are sitting on top of a "project" Ampeg B40 cab I recently picked up and am in the process of refurbishing. Those old CTS speakers sound great but they don't handle volume at all so I got a set of Legends to put in it. I'm going to cover it in DuraTex and let it eat.

Have you documented your PA100 mods etc., anywhere?
 
Thanks Paul. The TungSols are rated for GC grade replacement, that's why Mike chose them.

You know, this is what gets me so angry. The tube designations are a standard method of keeping track of a tube's characteristics. Playing fast and loose with those standards will just lead to chaos!! You can see this happening already with the 5881 which is regularly subbed for the 'GC. Putting NOS 5881s, or the industry 6L6WGB, into an amp designed for 'GCs will give them a short life span. Note the B in that industry designation. The 5881 is from the 6L6B family line and delivers less power output than it's more modern brother.
 
50 watts

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100 Watts

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Before I bought these two amps and my Reeves 225, I was using a Fender Blues Deluxe as a portable bass amp, just for jams.
While there was no low end, as long as I kept the volume under 3 it actually worked enough so you could hear the parts.
 
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