A burly refinish

[Pappasgrind]

I'm not sure on sewing it prior to cutting, might not be a bad idea. When I routes the pickup cavity for my burl it was clean with no chips but maybe I got lucky. I would oil it first prior to the poly for sure only because the poly doesn't have much glow or pop to it.

 

[dune]

I'm not sure on sewing it prior to cutting, might not be a bad idea. When I routes the pickup cavity for my burl it was clean with no chips but maybe I got lucky. I would oil it first prior to the poly for sure only because the poly doesn't have much glow or pop to it.

Thanks for the reply. I probably should have put it this way: "Is there any downside to sealing it before routing, etc.?" The top I'm using isn't burl but spalted curly maple and it's pretty typical of spalted wood: very cool looking but very punky and rotted, with seriously compromised structural integrity. It's likely that this will be both the first and the last time I'll use any spalted wood in a bass build.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

I'm currently making a bass with a spalted curly maple (ink line) top. I've ordered the CPES based on Bruce's posts here. I've glued the top onto the swamp ash blank - still rectangular and now my question is: Given the rotted and weak nature of the spalted maple, would I be best off to do the CPES soak before I begin routing, cutting to shape, etc.? As I was preparing to rout the neck pocket I started thinking about possible tear-out and wondering if doing the CPES soak first would help to minimize the likelihood of that. I would also like to apply oil to the top to pop the figure and believe that this must be done first, even before the CPES, yes? And thanks for the great tip on fortifying the control cavity with aluminum.

Yes, I would apply the CPES now, before you start routing. You can even put on the main epoxy now, if you like.

No, do not put Tru-Oil or any other dye on there first. That will block the CPES from sinking all the way in.

The best way to make the figure pop is to add some pigment to the main epoxy. West Systems Epoxy, which is the epoxy I use, already has a mild warm amber tint, fairly similar to Tru-Oil. Applying West Systems, with no extra pigment added, will pop the figure about like Tru-Oil.

For spalted maple, I recommend first soaking it in CPES and letting that cure for a day or two. Then wipe on a coat of West Systems and let that cure. Then finish up your routing and trimming the top. Block sand the West Systems approximately flat and see where you are. Probably add a second coat of West Systems. Then finish sanding the West Systems and bring it up to a satin or gloss, whatever you like. And you are done.

Skip the Tru-Oil and poly top coats. You don't need them. West Systems epoxy is designed to be used as the top coat finish on marine woodwork. It's a very tough finish by itself.

 

[dune]

Yes, I would apply the CPES now, before you start routing. You can even put on the main epoxy now, if you like.

No, do not put Tru-Oil or any other dye on there first. That will block the CPES from sinking all the way in.

The best way to make the figure pop is to add some pigment to the main epoxy. West Systems Epoxy, which is the epoxy I use, already has a mild warm amber tint, fairly similar to Tru-Oil. Applying West Systems, with no extra pigment added, will pop the figure about like Tru-Oil.

For spalted maple, I recommend first soaking it in CPES and letting that cure for a day or two. Then wipe on a coat of West Systems and let that cure. Then finish up your routing and trimming the top. Block sand the West Systems approximately flat and see where you are. Probably add a second coat of West Systems. Then finish sanding the West Systems and bring it up to a satin or gloss, whatever you like. And you are done.

Skip the Tru-Oil and poly top coats. You don't need them. West Systems epoxy is designed to be used as the top coat finish on marine woodwork. It's a very tough finish by itself.

Thanks so much, Bruce. Your help is deeply appreciated. I have the West Systems 105 resin and 206 hardener. Is that good to use after the CPES? If not, what do I want to use instead? I'm also not sure how to apply that as a finish. Regarding the end result, I can apply it to the top outside the body line and see if it's popping enough before I do the entire thing. If not, I can add some pigment as you suggest.

I tried Tru-Oil once, after reading extensively here and elsewhere online regarding application method. I simply couldn't get it to do anything even remotely acceptable. Given the love it gets (almost) across the board, I'm sure it's not Tru, it's me. My go-to is most often Watco Natural. I prefer oil finishes because of the ease of applying, repairing and renewing them. Having read what you'd written above, I was planning on the West Systems being the final finish. Thanks again.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Thanks so much, Bruce. Your help is deeply appreciated. I have the West Systems 105 resin and 206 hardener. Is that good to use after the CPES? If not, what do I want to use instead? I'm also not sure how to apply that as a finish. Regarding the end result, I can apply it to the top outside the body line and see if it's popping enough before I do the entire thing. If not, I can add some pigment as you suggest.

I tried Tru-Oil once, after reading extensively here and elsewhere online regarding application method. I simply couldn't get it to do anything even remotely acceptable. Given the love it gets (almost) across the board, I'm sure it's not Tru, it's me. My go-to is most often Watco Natural. I prefer oil finishes because of the ease of applying, repairing and renewing them. Having read what you'd written above, I was planning on the West Systems being the final finish. Thanks again.

Yes, West Systems 105 resin/206 Hardener is what I prefer and use. It has a natural amber tint about like Watco Natural. Yes, try some on the outboard waste, and see if you like the color. It may be just what you are looking for. Or, you can add some pigment to darken it.

 

[dune]

Yes, West Systems 105 resin/206 Hardener is what I prefer and use. It has a natural amber tint about like Watco Natural. Yes, try some on the outboard waste, and see if you like the color. It may be just what you are looking for. Or, you can add some pigment to darken it.

Thanks again, Bruce. I am extremely grateful for your generosity with your time, knowledge and experience.

 

[Pappasgrind]

Did the final sand last night. At first I thought I had over sanded it and was feeling pretty low then i Ended up wiping the whole bass down with dr ducks ax lube then taking the finest grit I had (which I think was 10000) I wet sanded it and I got the craziest finish. It's for sure not perfect It definitely needed to be better sanded around the sides but I'm happy. Mostly because it wasn't a fail. Reminds me of an old 80's handmade instrument finish. So looks wise I'd give it a 7/10 but feel is easily a 10/10 not trying toot a horn but that neck feels better than anything I've ever played. So finish is a crazy aspect to a build and I salute anyone who's willing to do that on the regular. No I've got to just quickly get an electrical engineering degree and I'll be able to install the fluence pickups!

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Looks great. Ask questions here or the pickups and electronics forum. I know a number of guys have installed those pickups successfully.

 

[Pappasgrind]

Thanks! I just put the hardware back on and the pickups are in. I sat down and started to go through the schematics and they look strait forward minus how daunting the task may be. I might have to ask a few questions cause it looks like there's wires I'll have to cut lengths out of to make a few connections. Why in all their technological advances could they not have made it quick connect

 

[1n3]

Glad the refinish worked out for you. I think you'll figure out the wiring, slow and careful.

 

[Pappasgrind]

Glad the refinish worked out for you. I think you'll figure out the wiring, slow and careful.

Thanks they made it pretty simple it's just for the directions.

 

[Pappasgrind]

Wired it up and it worked! Then some how it stopped working and I'm to burnt out to figure it out.