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A question to our geometry experts...

A

allexcosta

Apr 7, 2004
4,721
119
#1
I know it shouldn't be extremely difficult but I can't seem to figure this one out.

How do I calculate the approximate radius of a conical fretboard at each fret location if the following are known numbers?

- Radius at nut
- Radius at 24th fret
- Scale length
- Distance from nut to each fret
- Distance from each fret to previous fret

Thanks.
 
#7
Meatrus said:
Thought I may aswell hi-jack this thread as it seems you have your answer :ninja:. How do you do a conical fretboard? With a bunch of different blocks, or a router?
Click to expand...

It may be a bit difficult to find the thread, so here it is:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/fingerboard-radius-jig-router-655298/

There's also the Grizzly sander, here:

G0574 Radiusing Sander

Different blocks will give you a compound fretboard, not a conical one.

The sander is a best choice IMO, since after using the router the board will need sanding anyway, perhaps losing some accuracy and the more accurate your conical board is, less leveling you'll have to do, which is preferred on a conical board...
 
#8
allexcosta said:
It may be a bit difficult to find the thread, so here it is:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/fingerboard-radius-jig-router-655298/

There's also the Grizzly sander, here:

G0574 Radiusing Sander

Different blocks will give you a compound fretboard, not a conical one.

The sander is a best choice IMO, since after using the router the board will need sanding anyway, perhaps losing some accuracy and the more accurate your conical board is, less leveling you'll have to do, which is preferred on a conical board...
Click to expand...
Someone on here just built a sanding one a few months back and posted pictures, I forget who it was, but it was very similar to the Grizzly one and much cheaper to build it yourself.

lowsound
 
#9
allexcosta said:
The sander is a best choice IMO, since after using the router the board will need sanding anyway, perhaps losing some accuracy and the more accurate your conical board is, less leveling you'll have to do, which is preferred on a conical board...
Click to expand...

Allex you have to quit giving advice on things you know nothing about, you don't build or repair, and you work from assumptions you make yourself without any real world experience.

The amount of finish sanding after using an overarm for doing radius is still a good deal as belts for longer belt sanders are limited to non finishing grade grits. Thus destroying the theory put forth.
Second is the way in which the frets are installed, generally for a compound radius they are hammered or rolled, as few have consecutive radius press plates or cauls to do pressed frets. This leaves you with very inaccurate surfaces and requires a thorough leveling before crowning.

Just wanted to correct bad information before the impressionable started egrandizing the conical freedom from leveling.
 
#13
Musiclogic said:
Allex you have to quit giving advice on things you know nothing about, you don't build or repair, and you work from assumptions you make yourself without any real world experience.
Click to expand...

Although I don't build or repair by myself I've actually helped friends on doing both things for the past 15 years and I do have real world experience on these matters. I've seen how a board comes out from a router jig and I've seen how a board comes out from a radiusing sander.

I've sanded boards that came out from both processes and came up with the opinion that a it's better to make a conical board with a sander than a router.
 

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