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Acoustic Room Treatments 101

An air gap behind a panel absorber of any type will generally increase its low frequency performance. A single panel straddling a corner works about as well as two equivalent material/thickness panels placed on the adjacent walls. You're using twice the absorption devices to equate to the performance of a single straddling absorber with an air gap behind it. Straddling the notch in your walls or flanking it on either side will both work well. The question is whether or not the added floor space of flanking is more beneficial than the extra money you'd have to spend on double the treatments for that purpose. Your best bet in terms of pure acoustic treatment performance is a filled-corner design but that's not practical for a lot of folks. You could build a superchunk that incorporates the notches in your wall quite easily and for relatively little money if you're handy with DIY tasks. There are plenty of guides online. Check out the John L Sayers forum for detailed information.


What's so challenging about the double doors? Acoustically they're just another wall for sound to bounce off of. I assume these are wooden doors like you'd find in most homes. If they're a real problem put a thin panel absorber on each with an adhesive product capable of holding the weight, such as 3M's Command Tabs. Get some bass trapping in the adjacent corners and you''ll probably be fine without even touching the door.

The doors are full length glass french doors. Solid wood and glass.
The other challenge is my wife doesn't want anything done with them! LOL!
She was willing to accept curtains to be drawn across them, but there could be a way to have some temporary panels placed on the doors while I'm recording or mixing that I'd remove when done.


The obvious answer is always "get the best speakers you can afford," but to me the better answer is "get some reasonable speakers for your budget that leave room for room treatments after the fact." This will allow you to get some speakers in the room and setup properly (correct height, correct angle, correct placement relative to the front wall, ideally not on the mix desk, etc.), listen to the room with the monitors working, make some judgements, take some measurements and then make an informed decision about acoustic treatments. You'll almost certainly benefit from some treatments, especially bass trapping, but until the system is in-place you would just be blindly purchasing treatments and hoping they'll work out. With a listening test and room measurements you'll know exactly what you need, what you don't, will come in closer to your budget and will end up with a better result.

Yeah, I'm looking at a bunch of monitors right now....hovering around the $1000CAD mark each, which is around $750USD. Something like a Neumann KH120A or maybe a splurge for a Dynaudio LYD 48!
The issue with the LYD 48's is they're likely to produce much more bass compared to the Neumans.
I'm generally one to leap frog over the beginner stuff because I do value good sound.


That's bad advice. The ideal position for your mix desk is centered on the short wall in a rectangular room. Your monitors should be symmetrical to the desk, except for a subwoofer if one is to be used. If a single sub is used then it is ideally placed asymmetrically and as close to one of the monitor speakers as possible. Most people stick the sub in the center but that creates frequency cancellations from the side walls that can be problematic. There are plenty of calculators online that will demonstrate this and allow you to make an informed decision, but suffice it to say; "as close to either one of the stereo monitors speakers as possible" is a very good starting point for sub placement. Make everything else centered and symmetrical if possible.

I appreciate the clarification on the desk position. Man is the internet ever loaded with stuff to spin people around. I realize that this site is wide open to all kinds of individuals who definitely have the passion and training, there can definitely be varying opinions, which is great, we're humans! But man this can be seriously frustrating.


It sounds like it's a non-critical space. In other words, you're likely using this space recreationally as opposed to professionally the majority of the time. If that's the case then keep that context in mind when spending money and purchasing treatments. All of this stuff is great fun, but if it's stressing your budget then don't let it be a source of anguish. Get it functioning first and then fine tune it over time as budget, time, energy, etc. allow.

Yeah, critical listening "on a budget" so to speak. Not exactly going to the point that I have to do it all myself, even though I may choose to, but you're right. I'm not building "Roy Thompson Hall" in my home. And I'm also not trying to make a mountain out of a mole hill either. I like Neumann's point about sound treatment's on their website.....for the most part, have fun with it!


This goes back to my earlier point about getting monitors first. Setup the room and see how it works first. After that the treatments will likely only make it better acoustically, but will perhaps make things more challenging in terms of space usage. For instance, if you need to put a wall hanger up for a guitar in a spot that would be ideal for an absorption panel you have to decide which to prioritize, function or acoustics.

Awesome advice. I really appreciate it!
 
I'm working on my studio room. It's 11.5ft x 14.5ft and 7.5ft high. all walls block built and hard plastered (no stud work), concrete floor. One end of this room is underground and the rest of my house is above. Large window in one short wall. There is a double door cupboard at the end of one long wall and the in door is at the other end. I've installed home made bass traps in front corners with 100mm Rockwool and gap behind, 3 wall mounted traps 200mm deep with 100mm Rockwool and a gap. I've built a similar bass box to cover half the window but it has heavy weight acoustic plasterboard sealing the back. I plan to make another for the rest of the window if needed. 75mm waffle foam on all bass traps and on ply panels mounted on walls and ceiling. The inside of the cupboard doors have been partially lined with plasterboard and waffle to make a booth with a memory foam mattress at the back and a lid above the doors. I need the cupboard for storage at present but plan to include it some day and sadly it's too small for a drum booth. I plan to use the room to mix and record acoustic instruments. There is garage through the back wall of the cupboard so I could build a drum booth but have done with that kind of loudness. Good luck with yours.

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I followed this guy's instructions for DIY sound treatments. Bought ready-made foam bass traps for corners, which I set up for each session and stack in the corner when session is done. Not a "professional" scenario but the sonic results work very well for me. Visually, it's also a win because the color scheme looks great -- my A/V studio doubles as a home office.



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This is great inspiration man! Thanks for your post!
 
I'm working on my studio room. It's 11.5ft x 14.5ft and 7.5ft high. all walls block built and hard plastered (no stud work), concrete floor. One end of this room is underground and the rest of my house id above. Large window in one short wall. There is a double door cupboard oat the end of one long wall and the in door is at the other end. I've installed home made bass traps in front corners with 100mm Rockwool and gap behind, 3 wall mounted traps 200mm deep with 100mm Rockwool and a gap. I've built a similar bass box to cover half the window but it has heavy weight acoustic plasterboard sealing the back. I plan to make another for the rest of the window if needed. 75mm waffle foam on all bass traps and on ply panels mounted on walls and ceiling. The inside of the cupboard doors have been partially lined with plasterboard and waffle to make a booth with a memory foam mattress at the back. I need the cupboard for storage at present but plan to include it some day and sadly it's too small for a drum booth. I plan to use the room to mix and record acoustic instruments. There is garage through the back wall of the cupboard so I could build a drum booth but have done with that kind of loudness. Good luck with yours.

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Very cool! What a challenging room you've had to deal with!

I'm going to assume you must have built this over time?
 
The doors are full length glass french doors. Solid wood and glass.
The other challenge is my wife doesn't want anything done with them! LOL!
She was willing to accept curtains to be drawn across them, but there could be a way to have some temporary panels placed on the doors while I'm recording or mixing that I'd remove when done.
Glass presents certain reflection characteristics that are a little different than wooden door, but they're not the worst thing in the world. Ultimately it's still just a flat, parallel hard surface to contend with. Curtains/drapes hanging in front of them will absorb a little high frequency and upper midrange energy but will leave low frequencies untouched. This may be beneficial if you have a problem in those frequencies or it may contribute to a boxy sound in the room by reducing reflections of mids and highs while leaving lows untouched and bouncing around the room. I suspect that once you get everything in the room and do some other treatments, especially corner trapping, the door won't be much of a problem.
 
If you go the route of building DIY panels you should look into how RealTraps and/or GIK build theirs. Most DIY panel projects have flat, solid sides. Both RealTraps (high end product) and GIK (middle tier product) slot or perforate the sides of their panels to allow for more exposed surface area of absorptive material. Ethan Winer published a great paper on the topic with some included measurements for reference that you can dig up. It's a little added labor with a router during construction, but if done correctly can improve panel performance as well as adding an interesting aesthetic touch. You can further improve on most DIY panel designs by adding rubber stand-offs to the backsides of the panels to create an air gap between the panel and the wall.
 
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Great comments!

I bought headphones first! Just for this very reason and this is a really great suggestion!
As long as it's some point of reference, you can figure out how the room interacts with your studio monitors.

The comment about mixing at a low level, I started thinking that it would make sense to go for smaller monitors and start by using them at low levels. Wouldn't I be just avoiding the situation of dealing with too much bass or mids and highs that sound way off though? Eventually, you've got to turn up what your listening too.
I still really like your approach of diving in and figuring out what I've got going on first and the learn the room.
I'm really still thinking about adding in some of these room treatments as stated, even if I can't do or my wife won't let me do all of them! LOL!
Turning up while mixing will expose your rooms hot spots --that will make you do a lot of cutting of frequencies that are problems in your room, but not necessarily problematic in other rooms or in reality. I would not use a very small size monitor. If possible I would use one that represents a pretty broad range.
 
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Turning up while mixing will expose your rooms hot spots
It will also help you understand how your mix translates when played loudly by the end user. Loud, moderate and low level monitoring all have their benefits relative to the room in which they’re mixed, the speakers being used, the Fletcher-Munson curve, the end user/listener, etc.
 
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Here’s the room diagram….

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I like this setup. As a multi-purpose room it's important to keep that window and the natural light coming in. It makes a big difference on people when indoors for long periods of time.(especially in winter) Just let the window light strike the music paper on the stand and not your back casting a shadow on the stand. ;-) The sunlight is worth the non-ideal placement of the desk along the long wall. No biggie, 11ft is wider than the length of rooms many of us have.

Do what you can, without going nuts, but remember in addition to mixing, you have practicing, maybe jamming with others, reading, living, passing through the patio doors, opening windows and doors for a cross-breeze etc.

Once you have speakers, a great way to calibrate yourself is to simply listen to a lot of award winning recordings of great music. Get used to those sounds in your room at different volumes. Walk around. Sit down. Listen and accept. Put in 100s of hours listening in your room. When you go to mix, make it sound like that. :-D
 
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It will also help you understand how your mix translates when played loudly by the end user. Loud, moderate and low level monitoring all have their benefits relative to the room in which they’re mixed, the speakers being used, the Fletcher-Munson curve, the end user/listener, etc.
When I'm finished mixing at a moderate level, I will crank it up and walk out of the mixing area leaving the door open and listen while making coffee or hanging out in my living room. I also check how the mix comes across on headphones. This is pretty much how people listen in their homes so that's how I will gauge a mix.
 
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Looks like you've given it a lot of good thought and received plenty of good advice already. I have nothing specific to add with respect to the room treatment itself.

My only advice is to do your best with what you've got and get to work making music. Do lots of test mixes and listen back to them on different systems in different rooms, and in the car. Learn the effect that your room has on your product and learn how to either a) treat the specific issues, or 2) mix around them.
 
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This is pretty much how people listen in their homes so that's how I will gauge a mix.
There was a recent publication, I’m blanking on which one unfortunately, that did a survey of listeners in the US. Home listening was among the lowest still in practice. By far the highest percentage was on earbuds and headphones with car stereos following not too far behind. It’s definitely been a consideration for clients of mine lately.
 
Yeah, I agree with this statement for sure, because it has to be a medium that offers acoustic absorption or diffusion depending on the application.

This begs me to wonder when people suggest to DIY these Rockwool panels....are they really getting the right thickness? Is it too thick or too thin? It's a very interesting subject acoustic treatments. :)
OC 703 and other condensed fiberglass materials are, at any thickness, better than foam.

2” is standard as a broadband absorber. Double up for 4” bass trapping in corners.

This advice may be found all over. And it works, IME
 
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There was a recent publication, I’m blanking on which one unfortunately, that did a survey of listeners in the US. Home listening was among the lowest still in practice. By far the highest percentage was on earbuds and headphones with car stereos following not too far behind. It’s definitely been a consideration for clients of mine lately.

Yeah, a few days ago I sent out mix samples demonstrating a duet of classical guitar and double bass. As you can imagine, this was a sonic challenge due to the difference in instrument registers. One of the reviewers said, "I can't hear the bass on my phone!" Upon further follow up, I learned "phone" meant the phone's speakers. Duh! Sometimes you just can't give a **** about what a particular reviewer says.....
 
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There is a lot of great advice in this thread!

One thing you should do for historical purposes is make some pre-treatment recordings, so you can compare the before and after.

There are many classic recording studios that have "live" rooms for when the need calls. Given that, the ideas to make easy to mount and remove panels may give you an advantage at times to wake up the room if needed. i.e. Sometimes singers no use to earphones do better in a live room.
 
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Yeah, a few days ago I sent out mix samples demonstrating a duet of classical guitar and double bass. As you can imagine, this was a sonic challenge due to the difference in instrument registers. One of the reviewers said, "I can't hear the bass on my phone!" Upon further follow up, I learned "phone" meant the phone's speakers. Duh! Sometimes you just can't give a **** about what a particular reviewer says.....
The struggle is real. I can only imagine what folks doing EDM struggle with since a hallmark of that genre is massive, clear, deep low frequency content that a phone speaker or earbuds have zero chance of reproducing.
 
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In my experience, a modest amount of room treatment can make a very big difference in the ability to really hear what's going on, and it sounds like the OP has a good realistic set of expectations!

A few things that I found pretty important/helpful in my treatment process:

- While a lot of discussion about treatments is about trying to tame various frequencies in the room in pursuit of a flat response, it's also critically important to create a situation where the sound coming directly from the monitors to your ears doesn't have to compete with sound that comes out of the monitors, bounces off a surface and then reaches your ears sometime after the direct sound. Here's a good piece from GIK that discusses the importance of the "reflection free zone": Early Reflection Points - GIK Acoustics

- You can take a big step towards achieving freedom from reflections with a bit of treatment on the walls on either side of your listening position, and on the ceiling above it, but don't neglect the nearly six-foot wide top of that desk! Sound bounces off it, too, which is why proper studios have the desktop at an angle - higher at the back where the monitors are, lower at the front where you're sitting. It looks like this is the case in the nice-looking setup @Kickass shared the photo of.

- While the formulas and rules of thumb are useful, be prepared to spend a fair amount of time experimenting witth adjustments to your monitor positions and listening position in all three dimensions. Even a few inches can make a significant difference. And when you do find the sweet spot, mark the locations of your monitors and your listening position on the floor so that you'll have them to refer to.

I know this stuff gets quite daunting; acoustics is a surprisingly complex and often counterintuitive field. But with patience and a methodical approach you can get the most out of your space, and once it's done you can forget about the mechanics and just enjoy the good listening environment!
 
There was a recent publication, I’m blanking on which one unfortunately, that did a survey of listeners in the US. Home listening was among the lowest still in practice. By far the highest percentage was on earbuds and headphones with car stereos following not too far behind. It’s definitely been a consideration for clients of mine lately.
For sure. I'm actually more of a headphone guy these days (Focal Elex), and then my car. I'm sure my 23 year old daughter is 100% wireless buds when she listens. My preferred mastering guy, Henrik Jonsson, is apparently aware of this, too, and his work for me translates well on phones and buds. I'm waiting for my Drop 8XX to arrive hoping they can beat my Focal Elex for checking mixes.
 
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