Advice / Help Please: MIJ Fender Classic 70's P-Bass refret or replace?

[fishjaco]

Hi everyone. This may be a common question but I've done some research and am still unsure whether I've gathered all the factors needed to make a decision. May I please have your advice on whether I should refret or replace my precision bass?

When I brought my Japanese Classic 70's P-Bass in to a Chicago area shop to get PLEKed they declined the job advising that the bass needed a full refret and new nut quoting around $800 partially due to the binding. I payed $700 total for the bass in 2012 and struggle to appraise it's current market value as there don't seem to be many sales records of the MIJ version of this bass out there.

Should I have them do the job or should I replace it? I do have nostalgic/sentimental feelings about it but not enough to offset a rational (relatively speaking) decision.

I've been considering a PJ (maybe used Troy Sanders Jag or used Yamaha BBP34) but will those or another be a worthy upgrade vs a refret? The Fralins in the P-Bass will probably be popped into the replacement so pickups aren't a primary concern. I'll be using it for both recording and gigging so unlike many other situations, 'looking cool' matters to me here.

My budget for a substitute (used or new) would be around $1,000-$1,500 including set-up etc.

Sincere thanks for your help!

Here's the bass-
Fender '70s Precision Bass - 3-Tone Sunburst

 

[Bassinthemudd]

I'd get another quote. I don't know anything about how much additional work the binding creates, but that seems steep.

I'd get a new Warmoth neck before paying that for a re-fret.

If you added the nice features of stainless steel frets (which would likley never need to be replaced,) graphite stiffening rods, and moonglow side dots, you'd be looking at $697

 

[fishjaco]

I'd get another quote. I don't know anything about how much additional work the binding creates, but that seems steep.

I'd get a new Warmoth neck before paying that for a re-fret.

Thanks Bassinthemudd. Yes, I've considered that. I'm having them do a set-up anyway so I'll 'make the rounds' once I get it back. Thank you again.

 

[Bassinthemudd]

Thanks Bassinthemudd. Yes, I've considered that. I'm having them do a set-up anyway so I'll 'make the rounds' once I get it back. Thank you again.

Have you checked their custom neck build page? I just plugged in what looks to be a replica of yours, with some nice added features. See edit of my previous post.

 

[fishjaco]

Have you checked their custom neck build page? I just plugged in what looks to be a replica of yours, with some nice added features. See edit of my previous post.

No, I was unaware of their custom neck page. Definitely something to consider. Thanks again!

 

[TN WOODMAN]

I'd get another quote. I don't know anything about how much additional work the binding creates, but that seems steep.

I'd get a new Warmoth neck before paying that for a re-fret.

If you added the nice features of stainless steel frets (which would likley never need to be replaced,) graphite stiffening rods, and moonglow side dots, you'd be looking at $697View attachment 5020154

Can’t agree more on the Warmoth neck replacement. I have a fretted & a fretless & they’re 2 of my favorite necks in my collection.

 

[fishjaco]

Can’t agree more on the Warmoth neck replacement. I have a fretted & a fretless & they’re 2 of my favorite necks in my collection.

Noted. Thank you! Will look into it.

 

[GIBrat51]

Well... couple of things:
- Yeah, re-fretting a bound neck - if it's done right - is not cheap, since it involves removing the binding, and putting it back, so that it looks - and feels - right. My wallet still whimpers when I think about the cost of re-fretting my '87 Rick 330 guitar. But,
- If you don't mind how it looks, cutting fret slots thru the binding is probably going to cost about as much as re-fretting an unbound neck. Or,
- Yeah, there's always a new neck. But, if you go with a Warmoth neck? It takes a lot of self control - and an iron will - to get one that doesn't cost $600-$700. Ask me how I know...

 

[Lo-E]

re-fretting a bound neck - if it's done right - is not cheap, since it involves removing the binding, and putting it back, so that it looks - and feels - right. But,
- If you don't mind how it looks, cutting fret slots thru the binding is probably going to cost about as much as re-fretting an unbound neck.

Well, yes and no…. If one doesn’t care about the binding coming up the sides of the frets themselves the binding needn’t be removed. The nubs can be filed flush with the fingerboard and the fret tangs cut back. It’s a more expensive refret than an unbound neck but not as expensive as rebinding the neck and it’s the route I would pursue.

Before pursuing that, though, I would pursue a second - and possibly a third estimate. $800 is high in any market for even the most involved refret.

 

[60bass]

OP what do they charge for their plek service? Does the 800 they quoted include the new frets, any binding new or repaired as needed, and also the plek service? If so then that would explain the high costs.

Still cheaper to replace the neck BUT if you don't replace it with a bound neck it probably won't play the same and you might not like it as much.

 

[fishjaco]

Well... couple of things:
- Yeah, re-fretting a bound neck - if it's done right - is not cheap, since it involves removing the binding, and putting it back, so that it looks - and feels - right. My wallet still whimpers when I think about the cost of re-fretting my '87 Rick 330 guitar. But,
- If you don't mind how it looks, cutting fret slots thru the binding is probably going to cost about as much as re-fretting an unbound neck.

Well, yes and no…. If one doesn’t care about the binding coming up the sides of the frets themselves the binding needn’t be removed. The nubs can be filed flush with the fingerboard and the fret tangs cut back. It’s a more expensive refret than an unbound neck but not as expensive as rebinding the neck and it’s the route I would pursue.

Before pursuing that, though, I would pursue a second - and possibly a third estimate. $800 is high in any market for even the most involved refret.

Thanks GIBrat51and Lo-E. I'm not sure exactly whether the quote included a full re-binding or something like what Lo-E describes. My sense is this shop may not be especially negotiable how the job is done but I'll ask anyway if only just to learn.

I do also plan to get a few more quotes; there are lots of shops in town but only one plek service.

OP what do they charge for their plek service? Does the 800 they quoted include the new frets, any binding new or repaired as needed, and also the plek service? If so then that would explain the high costs.

Thanks to you too 60Bass. They charge $250 for a plek level and crown with setup. $75 for a scan. To the best of my knowledge, the plek machine is used in the refret process. I'm confident the quote includes getting the bass into perfect playing condition: refinishing the neck and fretboard, getting the binding right, a new nut (also pleked I think), etc. It may have also included stainless.

I'm not particularly shocked by the quote and not at all suspicious but am surprised to be in this situation and want to make sure I have all the information to make the best decision on what to do. When I bought the bass I naively thought it would be the last P-Bass I'd ever need. lol

- Yeah, there's always a new neck. But, if you go with a Warmoth neck? It takes a lot of self control - and an iron will - to get one that doesn't cost $600-$700. Ask me how I know...

Still cheaper to replace the neck BUT if you don't replace it with a bound neck it probably won't play the same and you might not like it as much.

Replacing the neck is certainly something I'll carefully consider. Yeah, GIBrat51, citing Bassinthemudd's example, a replacement will probably end up running me over $700. Wouldn't mind hearing your story; does it end happily with an awesome bass that looks badass and plays like a dream? In addition to the cost of the neck itself, I'll probably have to get it installed as I'm not competent to do more than basic adjustments and maybe buy new hardware too. Those Warmoth necks seem to have a great reputation though.

I'm picking up the bass tomorrow and will request more specifics about the quote. Then I'll get a few more quotes for the refret and, separately, a Warmoth neck install and setup.

It sounds like, ultimately, there may not be a way of doing this for less than $800 without significant compromise which brings buying a new bass back into the fold too but probably best not to get ahead of myself yet.

Much gratitude to you all for your insights. The generosity of your time and knowledge is sincerely appreciated!

 

[GIBrat51]

Thanks GIBrat51and Lo-E. I'm not sure exactly whether the quote included a full re-binding or something like what Lo-E describes. My sense is this shop may not be especially negotiable how the job is done but I'll ask anyway if only just to learn.

I do also plan to get a few more quotes; there are lots of shops in town but only one plek service.



Thanks to you too 60Bass. They charge $250 for a plek level and crown with setup. $75 for a scan. To the best of my knowledge, the plek machine is used in the refret process. I'm confident the quote includes getting the bass into perfect playing condition: refinishing the neck and fretboard, getting the binding right, a new nut (also pleked I think), etc. It may have also included stainless.

I'm not particularly shocked by the quote and not at all suspicious but am surprised to be in this situation and want to make sure I have all the information to make the best decision on what to do. When I bought the bass I naively thought it would be the last P-Bass I'd ever need. lol





Replacing the neck is certainly something I'll carefully consider. Yeah, GIBrat51, citing Bassinthemudd's example, a replacement will probably end up running me over $700. Wouldn't mind hearing your story; does it end happily with an awesome bass that looks badass and plays like a dream? In addition to the cost of the neck itself, I'll probably have to get it installed as I'm not competent to do more than basic adjustments and maybe buy new hardware too. Those Warmoth necks seem to have a great reputation though.

I'm picking up the bass tomorrow and will request more specifics about the quote. Then I'll get a few more quotes for the refret and, separately, a Warmoth neck install and setup.

It sounds like, ultimately, there may not be a way of doing this for less than $800 without significant compromise which brings buying a new bass back into the fold too but probably best not to get ahead of myself yet.

Much gratitude to you all for your insights. The generosity of your time and knowledge is sincerely appreciated!

Well... yes, it plays like a dream. Looking badass? Well, that's debatable... I think it does, though. What it is, is a lefty 30" scale Mini-Precision bass, that's pretty much a "Mini-Me" clone of my '78 Fender P-Bass. Swamp Ash body w/3TB Lacquer finish; quarter- sawn Hard Rock Maple neck/Maple fretboard. The bridge is a Schaller BD-4 roller (can't get a Fender bridge cover on the small body, so I put a good looking bridge that I like on it); the tuners are Schaller BMs (like the ones on my Rick basses). Other than a SD "Vintage P" pickup, and CTS pots and output jack, all the wiring and miscellaneous parts (including the neck plate) are all Fender stuff. The Cream/Black/Cream pickguard is from Warmoth. Other than the bridge? The only obvious difference between it and the Fender P - besides the size - is the Red Coral dots on the fretboard. It wears GHS precision Flats - just like it's Big Brother. Sounds an awful lot like it, too. Including having it professionally put together by the luthier at Cowtown Guitars in Las Vegas, it cost me right at $1500 - which was about what I wanted to spend. For a left handed bass player? Short scale bolt on necked basses are either very cheap (and usually look, feel, and play that way), or else they're high $$ boutique basses that most owners would be afraid to play, in case they got a smudge - or God forbid, a scratch - on it. At the time, there simply wasn't anything in between. For me, $1200-$1800 is a mid-range priced, good quality play-the-snot-out-of-it bass - and that's the bass I wanted. And, that's the bass I got... And, if I was ever in the market for another bass? I'd build another Warmoth in a heartbeat. In fact, I'm resisting the temptation to build an Alder-bodied, Lake Placid Blue/Rosewood fretboard, hard-tail Stratocaster as I write this. Fortunately, my new Gretsch Electromatic Classic guitar has my attention at the moment; but, when the new wears off...?

 

[Lo-E]

Something that’s certainly driving the price up is Plek. While Plek is an amazing piece of technology, it’s not necessary for a perfect setup. A good, skilled luthier can get you a perfect setup without a Plek (regardless of what Plek’s marketing says). It’s a tool - a very good tool - that facilitates fret work for the luthier but it’s still only as good as the person operating it.

One of the most important things you pay for when hiring a luthier is good judgement and I often get a “used car salesman” vibe from shops that push Plek as the end-all, be-all solution to fret work. Maybe I’m just being too critical but an experienced luthier can get your frets leveled to well within .001” without a machine and I really don’t know anyone who plays with a low enough action to need more accuracy than that.

One more thing to consider is that Allparts makes a bound-and-blocked neck like yours but it’s a Jazz Bass width. Allparts necks are very well made and run about half the cost of a Warmoth neck because they are mass-produced. The quality is extremely high. Allparts necks tend to run on the chunky side so their Jazz necks will sit somewhere between a Fender P and J in terms of profile. Narrower than a typical P but deeper than a typical J. If that neck shape appeals to you it could be a much, much cheaper option than a Warmoth neck without compromising quality.

Just some thoughts to bounce around….

 

[fishjaco]

Well... yes, it plays like a dream. Looking badass? Well, that's debatable... I think it does, though. What it is, is a lefty 30" scale Mini-Precision bass, that's pretty much a "Mini-Me" clone of my '78 Fender P-Bass. Swamp Ash body w/3TB Lacquer finish; quarter- sawn Hard Rock Maple neck/Maple fretboard. The bridge is a Schaller BD-4 roller (can't get a Fender bridge cover on the small body, so I put a good looking bridge that I like on it); the tuners are Schaller BMs (like the ones on my Rick basses). Other than a SD "Vintage P" pickup, and CTS pots and output jack, all the wiring and miscellaneous parts (including the neck plate) are all Fender stuff. The Cream/Black/Cream pickguard is from Warmoth. Other than the bridge? The only obvious difference between it and the Fender P - besides the size - is the Red Coral dots on the fretboard. It wears GHS precision Flats - just like it's Big Brother. Sounds an awful lot like it, too.

Wow! Sounds like a winner of a build. How cool to have the matching 'mini-me' little brother to that '78 P-Bass.

Including having it professionally put together by the luthier at Cowtown Guitars in Las Vegas, it cost me right at $1500 - which was about what I wanted to spend. For a left handed bass player? Short scale bolt on necked basses are either very cheap (and usually look, feel, and play that way), or else they're high $$ boutique basses that most owners would be afraid to play, in case they got a smudge - or God forbid, a scratch - on it. At the time, there simply wasn't anything in between. For me, $1200-$1800 is a mid-range priced, good quality play-the-snot-out-of-it bass - and that's the bass I wanted.

Yeah, I don't know much about short scale basses but I was recently in a conversation with some friends of mine (one is a dealer and the other works at reverb) about how the market is so strange for them, as you describe. They have a distinct sound that, for some styles of music, can't be substituted but it's so hard to find an affordable one that plays and sounds right.

And, if I was ever in the market for another bass? I'd build another Warmoth in a heartbeat.

I hear this. Seriously looking into a Warmoth neck based on these kinds of comments.

In fact, I'm resisting the temptation to build an Alder-bodied, Lake Placid Blue/Rosewood fretboard, hard-tail Stratocaster as I write this. Fortunately, my new Gretsch Electromatic Classic guitar has my attention at the moment; but, when the new wears off...?

Lol! I guess when you're a lifer the road just keeps going.

Thanks again GIBrat51, your input is much appreciated!

 

[fishjaco]

Something that’s certainly driving the price up is Plek. While Plek is an amazing piece of technology, it’s not necessary for a perfect setup. A good, skilled luthier can get you a perfect setup without a Plek (regardless of what Plek’s marketing says). It’s a tool - a very good tool - that facilitates fret work for the luthier but it’s still only as good as the person operating it.

One of the most important things you pay for when hiring a luthier is good judgement and I often get a “used car salesman” vibe from shops that push Plek as the end-all, be-all solution to fret work. Maybe I’m just being too critical but an experienced luthier can get your frets leveled to well within .001” without a machine and I really don’t know anyone who plays with a low enough action to need more accuracy than that.

Yeah, good point(s). In fact, the bass was set up by another tech at the shop, not the plek guy, and it plays really well again. I'm not the most sensitive player so a more experienced hand would probably feel how much it still needs help but at least it can be used while I get more quotes and look further into a neck replacement as an alternative to a refret.

One more thing to consider is that Allparts makes a bound-and-blocked neck like yours but it’s a Jazz Bass width. Allparts necks are very well made and run about half the cost of a Warmoth neck because they are mass-produced. The quality is extremely high. Allparts necks tend to run on the chunky side so their Jazz necks will sit somewhere between a Fender P and J in terms of profile. Narrower than a typical P but deeper than a typical J. If that neck shape appeals to you it could be a much, much cheaper option than a Warmoth neck without compromising quality.

Just some thoughts to bounce around….

Thanks for the heads up on the Allparts option. So interesting; before posting here a new neck was completely off my radar. Now it's a whole new rabbit hole to explore.

Thank you again for your help Lo-E!