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Alembic....what more can I say?

Some how the ergonomics of the bass keep 1st position from feeling like its way out there like on other 24 fret basses that I've owned.....

Body size/design and scale length are the factors here, not the number of frets. My old Series II was a bit of a stretch to first position while the Sukop I currently play is not - both 24 frets, 34" scale. I had a 32" Exploiter, 24 frets, that was very comfortable in first position.

The worst stretch ever was the Warwick Buzzard. I sold mine for that reason, in spite of it being one of the best sounding basses I ever own.
 
Body size/design and scale length are the factors here, not the number of frets. My old Series II was a bit of a stretch to first position while the Sukop I currently play is not - both 24 frets, 34" scale. I had a 32" Exploiter, 24 frets, that was very comfortable in first position.

The worst stretch ever was the Warwick Buzzard. I sold mine for that reason, in spite of it being one of the best sounding basses I ever own.
Sure I get that, I think (and I could be wrong) that probably some of the thinking behind some designs for 24 fret (and im sure 20-22 fret basses too, just haven't run into the same issue with them) basses is such that the body is made in such a way that those who play those instruments are going to be spending lot more time in the middle to upper regions of the instrument and it's an attempt to make those areas more comfortable/accessible at the expense of playing with the same comfort in 1st position. The scale is the same its just the way body is cut that it just pushes or gives the feel of the end of the neck being pushed out farther.

My worst "stretcher" bass was a Spector ns4crfm:nailbiting:
 
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I've always wanted to own an Alembic, ever since looking at pictures of JPJ's in Junior High School. My current bass crush is a 5-string fretless Epic. I have seen a few pop up used for around the 2K mark, which I could possibly swing and also justify (with my playing schedule these days - once a week), but currently new ones are priced at $7200 I'm thinking I'll never actually be able to afford one!
 
My 1984 Series II, which I stupidly sold circa 2002.
JMa1.jpg
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My first Alembic: 1983 Exploiter that I had John Entwistle sign. I found these pics on eBay when an owner after me was selling it:
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A poor photo of my purple Stanley Clarke
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My last Alembic, a green Essence
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In my experience (which amounts to a 1978 Series I) Alembics are good for temperate and relaxed environments such as lounges or studios, or for conversation, but not so much for the hectic rock'n'roll life of gigging in hot, stuffy bars.

I have been an Alembic player since 1993, and have played in hundreds of sweaty, hot rock and roll funk pit bars with mine. I've never had a problem! I'm worried about theft, of course, so I keep close watch on my basses between sets and keep them in their hardshell case to prevent some drunk or moron from knocking them off a guitar stand.

In my experience, it's true that Alembic necks will move with humidity changes more than most other basses. Every spring and every fall I need to adjust the neck, but not more often than that. But the good news is that their truss rod system is stupid easy to use and I can tweak them as needed in 5 minutes or less. For me, it simply isn't an issue.

One other point: the fret work and factory setups on every Alembic I've ever played - about 30 of them - is so good that it's possible to get the action uncommonly and insanely low. As a result, just the tiniest change in neck relief will. cause some buzzing. Most other basses can't be set up so low, so small changes in neck relief aren't as noticeable. So, take the good with the bad.

And the best part: nothing sounds like an Alembic!
 
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For a long time (20 years) my only bass was the Series I in my avatar. It went everywhere I played, from festivals to sweaty, smoky dive bars. It also has the most stable neck I've ever used. I've never adjusted the truss rod in 30 years, and it's always been dead-solid perfect.
This mirrors my experience. I've never had stability issues and it isn't that unusual for the bass to be packed in a warm, dry climate and unpacked in a hot, humid climate, or a frozen zone.
 
Sure I get that, I think (and I could be wrong) that probably some of the thinking behind some designs for 24 fret (and im sure 20-22 fret basses too, just haven't run into the same issue with them) basses is such that the body is made in such a way that those who play those instruments are going to be spending lot more time in the middle to upper regions of the instrument and it's an attempt to make those areas more comfortable/accessible at the expense of playing with the same comfort in 1st position. The scale is the same its just the way body is cut that it just pushes or gives the feel of the end of the neck being pushed out farther.

My worst "stretcher" bass was a Spector ns4crfm:nailbiting:
The "stretch" to the first fret and headstock is a function of the distance between the bridge saddles and the bottom strap pin. Looking at this photo you see a Nordstrand NJ6 in front with Alembic Elans in back. The Nordstrand, being closer, should appear larger. Actually, the Nordy has a 35" scale while the Alembics have a 34" scale. Now look at the position of the bridge. The Nordy has the bridge right at the butt of the body whereas the Alembics have the bridge 3" from the butt of the instrument. It is more easily seen on the Alembic on the right.) That is what adds the "Stretch." The MK and Omega-cut models have a huge distance between the strap pin and the bridge, so they will always be a bit of a stretch.

And for the record, the worst stretch I've ever seen was on a Tyler six-string. It had a 36" scale and a 6-inline headstock. Although I could reach the first fret just fine, I couldn't reach the tuning key for the C-string. As a 6' tall person, my arms aren't short!
 

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