• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Alternating Between Lined & Unlined Fretless Basses

Necroing this thread; I have two fretless basses; one lined, one *kind of* unlined; it has lines ONLY on the top (left, as you look at it from the front) side of the fretboard for a few millimeters. I find those keep me in tune SO much more than trying to scope the entire fretboard, and I adore the look of the unlined fretboard. For reference, my "unlined" is an Ibanez SRF705.

No sure it's a necro when it got posted yesterday ,

But yeah I think you're onto something there. The mini ghost lines seem like the perfect solution. A lot of high end luthiers doing them too; Roscoe, Skjold etc.
 
I have one of each - a lined Aria SB1000 and an unlined Wal Mk1. Makes no difference to me. Even if I look, its not for the sake of being in tune. You tune with your ears, not your eyes
I try not to look regardless of what bass I’m on but I have found that I can go for longer & longer stretches without looking. That probably has more to do with confidence…
 
No sure it's a necro when it got posted yesterday ,

But yeah I think you're onto something there. The mini ghost lines seem like the perfect solution. A lot of high end luthiers doing them too; Roscoe, Skjold etc.

My bad; I misread the original date. I do love the thin side lines, though. Reference without distraction, is how I view them, personally.
 
My bad; I misread the original date. I do love the thin side lines, though. Reference without distraction, is how I view them, personally.

If mini lines are good enough for the F Bass AC (aka the King of Fretless), they're good enough for anyone!

F-Bass-AC4-Antique-Brown-Burst-High-Gloss-1-1536x1536.jpg
 
Indiana Jones warned you not to look. :cool:

I never got screwed up with lines or dots because I ignore them. I played an unlined fretless exclusively for the first few years and memorized the relative position of notes. Now when I play a lined and/or dotted fretless, I ignore the dots and go into robot mode. That only works on a 34" scale bass, though. When I first got the Ric (avatar pic) it was really tough to play because it has side dots for every fret and the fingerboard dots are where they'd be on a fretted bass. It's like looking at a game of dominos! Took some time to overcome that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LadyLoveStingRay5
Indiana Jones warned you not to look. :cool:

I never got screwed up with lines or dots because I ignore them. I played an unlined fretless exclusively for the first few years and memorized the relative position of notes. Now when I play a lined and/or dotted fretless, I ignore the dots and go into robot mode. That only works on a 34" scale bass, though. When I first got the Ric (avatar pic) it was really tough to play because it has side dots for every fret and the fingerboard dots are where they'd be on a fretted bass. It's like looking at a game of dominos! Took some time to overcome that.
Well you bring up yet another good point…

The Modulus is 35 & the Pedulla is 34 but I have a fretted Roscoe and when I switch between it and any of my fretted 34s it’s not an issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jamro217
Well you bring up yet another good point…

The Modulus is 35 & the Pedulla is 34 but I have a fretted Roscoe and when I switch between it and any of my fretted 34s it’s not an issue.
If you have multiple basses, getting to know each one is key. Scale length doesn't matter if you think of it in terms of the particular instrument you're playing rather than it being different form the others. The familiarity with an instrument can overcome any deficiencies they have, too. If you know one has a weak sounding E string, you automatically play that string louder whenever you use that bass. Same with markers. Signs only work when you bother to read them, so ignoring the markers doesn't inhibit your playing.
 
Jealous. What color? Any other interesting specs?

I'm not someone who is well-versed in tech stuff (I just know what I like) but here are the specs:


AC5 Signature series bass
- Semi chambered Maple Body, Maple Neck, Ebony fingerboard, Antique Brown Burst Spruce Top, with a matte finish and matching Ramp
- 34.5 inch scale
- Metal Bridge and Neck Pick-ups with brass saddles, and piezo pick-up
- built in pre-amp
- ghost lines
- Blue Luminlay side dots right on the fret line positions (1,3,5,7,9,12,15,17,19...etc.)
 
Some day I want a fretless with piezos and a fingerboard all the way to the bridge. Not cause I love piezos or want it to sound like an URB, or play up there, but just because I think it'd look so danged cool. But I think we're heading into a time where eating is pretty danged cool too .
 
I'm not someone who is well-versed in tech stuff (I just know what I like) but here are the specs:


AC5 Signature series bass
- Semi chambered Maple Body, Maple Neck, Ebony fingerboard, Antique Brown Burst Spruce Top, with a matte finish and matching Ramp
- 34.5 inch scale
- Metal Bridge and Neck Pick-ups with brass saddles, and piezo pick-up
- built in pre-amp
- ghost lines
- Blue Luminlay side dots right on the fret line positions (1,3,5,7,9,12,15,17,19...etc.)

Sounds awesome. I hope it blows you away.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Neil Folkard
I've had both lined and unlined fretless, that doesn't throw me off.

However playing a 35" scale fretless after a decade plus building muscle memory on 32" and 34" fretless BGs and 42" uprights was a big adjustment to where I had to use "Simandl" (1-2-4) fingering on the 35-er in the lower registers.
The nut was just a little further out, and all the notes up the neck were in slightly displaced locations from where I'd been playing for years, I was relieved to sell that otherwise wonderful bass (Peavey Cirrus 5).