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Hello community,
I reactivated my SVT II after several years, donated a set of new power tubes and it sounds excellent. Unfortunately I have the problem that the Ultra High switch shows no reaction. Does anyone have an idea to this problem? Thank you for your support!
Da Sie gefragt haben, deutet das darauf hin, dass Sie nicht in der Technik sind. Wenn Sie also eine Reparatur wünschen, bringen Sie den Verstärker zu einem guten Techniker.
Es ist eine ziemlich einfache Schaltung.
View attachment 5380884
R42 und C6 umgehen einen kleinen Teil der Höhen um den Lautstärkeregler herum. R42 begrenzt, wie viele Höhen durch den Kondensator gelangen. Der Bright-Schalter umgeht R42, sodass mehr Höhen durch den Kondensator geleitet werden.
Könnte ein defekter Schalter, eine unterbrochene Verbindung oder ein defekter Kondensator sein.
Hello community,
I reactivated my SVT II after several years, donated a set of new power tubes and it sounds excellent. Unfortunately I have the problem that the Ultra High switch shows no reaction. Does anyone have an idea to this problem? Thank you for your support!
haha (laughing) ... it's probably true that our ears have had to endure a lot. But I can remember very well that when I pressed the UH switch on my SVT II, the treble was noticeably increased. Sometimes so bad that there was a whistle. Or was that already the beginning of the end? Thank you very much for the link to the instructions!I've never noticed much effect from using the Ultra High switch on my SVT-II either, but maybe it's not defective... The Manual seems to indicate It's boosting the 8kHz frequency range, and says it more noticeable at lower volume levels... So It's kinda understandable that we wouldn't notice much deference if we play in loud rock bands; and if our cab didn't have a tweeter and was limited to a 5kHz frequency, and if you happen to play with old dead flatwound strings like I do. Not to mention further issues if we've played in loud rock bands for years and have somewhat damaged our higher frequency hearing ability.
Here's a link to the manual: https://ampeg.com/pdf/SVT-II300.pdf
Thank you sir!Hi, according to my information the explanation is as follows:
TNB = Part Number
D = North America
B = 1989
9 = September
0008 = Device # 0008
Regards Jurgen
haha (lacht) ... es ist wahrscheinlich wahr, dass unsere Ohren einiges aushalten mussten. Ich kann mich aber noch sehr gut daran erinnern, dass beim Drücken des UH-Schalters an meinem SVT II die Höhen merklich angehoben wurden. Manchmal ist es so schlimm, dass es einen Pfiff gab. Oder war das schon der Anfang vom Ende? Vielen Dank für den Link zur Anleitung!
Nice! Those Baer cabs do love some tube power. I will have to try my ML-112's with my SVT-II. Good call!Just put this rig together. I bought the Ampeg a few months ago and recently purchased the Baer here.
It’s a match made in heaven.



I added a pair of 80mm fans wired to a 12v power supply to mine also.Here's mine, in a Mesa shockmount.
Just had a weird problem with my SVTII.
was recording using the balanced out on the amp. I noticed a hum from my amp through my cabinet and thought it was maybe from someone elses amp plugged into the same power strip… ha.
Then I mentioned the hum so we checked the recording, the signal to the board was really distorted.
We tried some stuff and it cleared up for a bit, probably because I turned the amp off.
It came back ten minutes in.
It did emit really bad hum to my cabinet when I turned the graphic EQ on.
Turned off the power once and it cleared up, wonder if this is a bad preamp tube.
Thoughts anyone? Is there a tube that drives the graphic eq and balanced out but not the power amp?
I wonder if the DI is phantom safe. Turn phantom off. You can try lifting the ground, but the schematic does not show a switch for that. Disconnect the DI and see if the problem with amp clears. If no, the amp probably needs repair.
We tried a few different things so actually i guess it wasn’t specifically with the balanced out on the amp.
Sounded like a bad preamp tube (like a really bad sounding dirty distortion pedal) through the board but was only a moderately loud hum through my cabinet. Weird.
We tried pulling signal from the preamp out too now that i think about it. I turned the amp off and back on and it cleared up but it came back 10 mins into the track.
Got the amp plugged in and hot now and it’s dead quiet. Guess I will leave it for a few hours and see if it acts up.
Wouldn’t be surprised if it has a failing preamp tube. They’re pretty old.
Does Pre/Post have any impact on the distortion? When set to Pre, the DI takes the signal off at the front end of the preamp; after V1a and V1b. This is before all of the controls.
In Post the signal is taken after the Graphic switch...right before the Preamp Out. The entire preamp is in the signal path and the DI circuit is solid state. So if the output of the amp is clean, I don't see anyway it can be a tube. However since you said the output of the amp was distorted, it could be a tube. If the problem comes and goes when you switch the graphic in and out, it's related to the graphic.
Could be DI circuit damaged, gain too high on the mixer, or the mixer is damaged.Post/Pre had no effect, either way I got the moderate hum through my cab but no distortion through it. The distortion was only on the recording.
Switching graphic on had no effect, only weird thing with that was at one point switching the eq on caused a crazy loud hum through my cab which the volume control had no effect on, that happened only once.
At one point I switched the polarity switch on the amp it killed the hum through the cabinet but it came back.
Wonder if it was a problem with the board and not my amp…I can’t recall for sure if the hum through my cab went away when we unhooked the cable from the board..
Post/Pre had no effect, either way I got the moderate hum through my cab but no distortion through it. The distortion was only on the recording.
Switching graphic on had no effect, only weird thing with that was at one point switching the eq on caused a crazy loud hum through my cab which the volume control had no effect on, that happened only once.
At one point I switched the polarity switch on the amp it killed the hum through the cabinet but it came back.
Wonder if it was a problem with the board and not my amp…I can’t recall for sure if the hum through my cab went away when we unhooked the cable from the board..