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Any amateur builders using their own CNC?

@Jeff Siddall, you should check out the jig I used for the compound radius fretboard for my bass (Homebuilt EUB build thread start around post 105). in a short afternoon I turned out a fingerboard that not only is compound radius (2.75" -> 3.75") but *ALSO* tapers from 3/4" to 1/2". If you wanted bigger radii, you would just need to extend the legs of the table and the rotating jig to accommodate the longer throw.

If I were building this for repeatability and long term use, I would build it out of much stronger materials and with much more precision than I did for this build as this was kind of a one off.
 
@Jeff Siddall, you should check out the jig I used for the compound radius fretboard for my bass (Homebuilt EUB build thread start around post 105). in a short afternoon I turned out a fingerboard that not only is compound radius (2.75" -> 3.75") but *ALSO* tapers from 3/4" to 1/2". If you wanted bigger radii, you would just need to extend the legs of the table and the rotating jig to accommodate the longer throw.

If I were building this for repeatability and long term use, I would build it out of much stronger materials and with much more precision than I did for this build as this was kind of a one off.

Yes, I did see your jig. I was getting ready to build something similar before realized that it would just be another large, single use tool -- and a less precise one at that -- compared with a CNC. The fretboard I need to make next goes from 7-17" radius, so not a small jig.
 
Here are some pictures that I don't think made it into my build thread.

This is the best pic I have of the rotating jig that the fretboard mounts to:
2021-02-27 13.24.20.jpg

If I made another version, I should have moved the handle up to right under the beam for the FB. as it was it wound up binding on my workbench and being kind of a PITA to work with.
2021-02-27 13.40.33.jpg

Here you can see the table with the sled in position. (I don't think that it was attached at this point) But the concept is simple. There is about 3/4" on each end that provides free space for the rotating jig to 'wobble' and not bind against the table. I just freehand drilled the holes that I needed on each end, but if I were building this for production use, I would probably spend some time and do some proper spacing holes with pins between the two pieces (not big lag screws).

2021-02-27 16.05.36.jpg

Fingerboard going into the jig. Clamping (especially a thin BG fretboard) could be problematic, I would probably used the tape and superglue method. I was working with a 3/4" piece of purpleheart, so I clamped it with the screws you see, they are angled in at a 45* angle, and the heads gripped into the endgrain.

As far as operation, sliding the router from one end to the other while holding the jig in place made the most satisfactory results. I wound up doing 'loops' on the FB, routing down on one side, and then back up on the other getting two cuts out of each pass of the router.

Here are the final results.

2021-02-27 16.34.40.jpg 2021-02-27 16.34.34.jpg
 
Gotcha. I was watching his video about it...he says it cost about $1300. All the parts that look like metal are actually plywood. It's interesting at least.

The problem with improving cheap Chinese stuff (or perhaps with things made of plywood that probably should be metal) is I don't want to blow $800 on fiddling with something instead of paying $1500 for something that works. But paying like $150 to figure something out is worth it.

The Shapeoko looks really good too. I'd like to get something that's at least big enough to do necks and bodies.

My hope would be that the CNC router would be replacing a lot of other tools and be the centerpiece of making. (warnings made by a poster above are absolutely taken to heart btw). I just did 6 telecaster necks and 1 strat neck by hand, they all came out decently but it seems like 90% of the work could be done on the CNC and it could do it better than I could, and then I could really put my energy into the design, fit and finish instead of constantly being stressed about getting all this manual work done.

Just purchased the plans from the Highline Guitars guy and am building at least the mechanical part of his machine. In my case replacing the plywood with 6061 aluminum to ensure the rigidity of the frame and prevent as much deflection as possible.

The problem with the kits like the Shapeoko is that they are too small for guitar work and are not very sturdy, there is quite a bit of deflection from what I've heard from many others. The Highline guy replaced his store bought one with his home made one.

One of my buddies bought a really high end Laguna CNC, it was about the same size as the Highline Guitars one but was over $6,000.

Yeah, if you are looking at producing anything in quantities then a $1500 investment could make sense. My general advice would be to buy an off-the-shelf model unless you are more interested in learning how to make a CNC than actually having one. Making anything from scratch for the first time is a ton of work. Rewarding, yes, but it will take more time than you would expect.

I make things in quantities of 1 so can't justify the space or cost for a commercial CNC. Rather than the centerpiece for my work, a CNC is a precision tool to do a few things that would be hard for me to do (or do precisely) by hand: engraving, blind fret slots, compound radius, etc. FWIW, all the moving parts on my upgrade are metal, including the entire Z-axis. Only the base/table and gantry (which is fixed) are plywood. My costs were $300 US including everything (tax, shipping etc. on all parts, plywood, little fasteners, wiring etc. that some people ignore.)

Good luck!

In my case the build of the machine is just as much fun as building a bass guitar. In addition I require fewer jigs, have an accurate machine and can stay further away from the router bit.

Like I mentioned above the "budget" CNC kits are fun to learn on, but they are not really suited for building guitars. My friend Helmut has a small one that is both laser and cutter motor. He makes small stuff like pcb boards, custom truss rod covers and other things. It's perfect for that, but can't cut a guitar fretboard, never mind a bass one. He did do a fan fretboard for me, at an angle on the machine, but it needs some additional work at the nut to make it usable...it's just gathering dust in my shop right now.

As for investing in tools, it's worth it in my eyes to get something good at the beginning then to have to slowly replace things as you go along. I can't tell you how many times I had to replace cheap stuff. It ends up costing far more in the long run.

Just an example... when I first started out I purchased an old Craftsman 12 inch band saw. I did a bunch of work to it to level everything, to keep the blade from sliding on the wheels, made fences, etc.. it was underpowered, barely cut hardwood, had to be creative to cut out a guitar body because the throat wasn't deep enough and couldn't really re-saw anything thicker than 6 inches, which isn't wide enough for a guitar top.

I sold it, along with a 60th Anniversary Fender Stratocaster and purchased a Laguna 1412 bandsaw. This is the best tool in my shop right now! It's a dream to work with can re-saw just about 14 inches, is powerful and is super easy to set up and adjust. Completely worth the over $1,200. cost.

Just my silly $.02
 
I think ultimately I'm shooting for an AVID cnc kit. Probably 4x2 which would do everything guitar wise, could handle sheets of plywood with tiling, etc. Not cheap at all but it would hopefully be the terminal kit for me.

The more I think about it, the more sense it makes.

That said I currently have zero CAD skills, so my plan in the shortish term is to get F360 nailed. I'm thinking of getting a 3d printer for the time being so I can have something to practice with. I can also see a lot of lutherie and jig making applications for the printer so it wouldn't be a waste anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Pri...d=1&keywords=3d+printer&qid=1617505466&sr=8-3
 
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I think ultimately I'm shooting for an AVID cnc kit. Probably 4x2 which would do everything guitar wise, could handle sheets of plywood with tiling, etc. Not cheap at all but it would hopefully be the terminal kit for me.

The more I think about it, the more sense it makes.

That said I currently have zero CAD skills, so my plan in the shortish term is to get F360 nailed. I'm thinking of getting a 3d printer for the time being so I can have something to practice with. I can also see a lot of lutherie and jig making applications for the printer so it wouldn't be a waste anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Pri...d=1&keywords=3d+printer&qid=1617505466&sr=8-3

I had a free Fusion 360 license a while back, just tried to see if it will export CAM files and it does not, they just recently took that feature out, so it doesn't see like a great idea to learn something that could be a dead end.

Currently I'm testing FreeCAD to see if that will work... obviously need to get some feedback from people that know what's going on.

The 3D printer looks like a great deal of fun!
 
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While I haven't used it much yet, I'm close to 100% certain you're wrong. I believe f360 generates the g code you need to run any cnc machine, that's what it's made for. Every cnc instrument maker I know uses it. My friend builds wooden flutes on a 35k Haas mill and uses f360 exclusively. It's supposed to be super powered and works well. So you might want to give it a 2nd look. Two cherries instruments on youtube has tons of videos about f360 and cnc machinong for instruments. Steep learning curve.


I had a free Fusion 360 license a while back, just tried to see if it will export CAM files and it does not, they just recently took that feature out, so it doesn't see like a great idea to learn something that could be a dead end.

Currently I'm testing FreeCAD to see if that will work... obviously need to get some feedback from people that know what's going on.

The 3D printer looks like a great deal of fun!
 
While I haven't used it much yet, I'm close to 100% certain you're wrong. I believe f360 generates the g code you need to run any cnc machine, that's what it's made for. Every cnc instrument maker I know uses it. My friend builds wooden flutes on a 35k Haas mill and uses f360 exclusively. It's supposed to be super powered and works well. So you might want to give it a 2nd look. Two cherries instruments on youtube has tons of videos about f360 and cnc machinong for instruments. Steep learning curve.

You are 100% correct, the full version of F360 does all that and more.

For quite a few years they provided a license for hobbyists and businesses that made less than $100K per year, it was nearly the full featured software. Recently, they started limiting many of these features, and my understanding was that in order to export CAM or G-Code files, you would need the full (very expensive) version of F360.

Maybe I'm just reading the changes incorrectly?
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It seems that I truly mis-understood the limitations recently added to the "Free" version of Fusion 360. It is a very powerful program and takes many hours to learn how to use properly, so the concern was after learning all that I'd be unable to export my finished project to a CNC .

I'm very happy to say I was completely incorrect. In this video, they speak with the Vice Presdinent of AutoDesk and afterward review what features are still available.

 
Thanks man. It's all good to know. If you learn one of these programs it's a big investment so it's good to know what the details are.

I was talking to my friend who makes flutes and he has started paying for a subscription (I think they've started contacting people who are using it a lot). I thought he said it was like $250 per year but it looks like it's $500. He said for him it's totally worth it because he uses it constantly. Definitely steep.
 
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Yes, the yearly paid version is $495.00 per year! While it's a small price to pay if your make money building using the software, it's far too rich for a hobby.

As mentioned before, learning these programs is a huge investment of your time, in addition to the cost of the software. Honestly I keep going back and forth between the Fusion 360 and FreeCAD programs.

FreeCAD works well, but is clunky and doesn't "feel polished". But you can make as many projects as you want and they are all yours and you can save them to multiple formats.

Fusion 360 is smooth, powerful, elegant and beautiful... but it's more challenging to get your files or to easily export them to multiple formats.

I suppose the truth of the matter is where you are in life, if you want to train yourself to be a designer and go out and work in that space, no question, use Fusion 360. But if your an old guy, just want something that works and don't want to perform circus tricks to use it, maybe consider FreeCAD??

Still undecided at this point. But it makes sense to begin exploring the software and learning how it works before building an actual CNC. This way you have some projects to test with when you finally get the CNC set up and ready to go!
 
I haven't invested any time into it at this point, but I probably will this summer, when it's crazy hot and humid and not a great time to make instruments.

I'm fairly serious about this and pondering doing it to make $$$ or at least not starve, so I would prefer to invest in the terminal program with the most capability. It would suck to put a lot of effort into something and then realize that it was inadequate.

Apparently F360 has sales on subscriptions, I just noticed last year they were selling for $25 a month. A lot for a hobbyist but I can see that if I was up and running with a CNC router it would be a bargain. Money is weird...I'd spend $25 on a box of sandpaper in a 2nd but $25 a month for a massively overpowered program seems crazy.

Talking out of my butthole here as I haven't done anything yet but I am planning on it.

That's why I'm planning on the 3d printer. Cheaper mistakes, limited buy in. I didn't realize the raw plastic is so cheap, but it is. And if you start thinking for a little bit about what it can do for lutherie...it's def super useful. Need a weird pickup template? No problem. I was trying to make a tapered neck pocket jig for a telecaster that had a tuneamatic bridge and my precision woodworking skills were not up to the task at all, but that should be super easy with a 3d printer.

but yeah...talking out of my butt with no actual time on the ground. I'm sure there will be plenty of frustration before that becomes a reality.
 
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I've noticed btw that someone will poopie on whatever CAD program you mention. I asked an engineer friend of mine if F360 was cool and she said it was clunky poopie and I should look at solidworks or Creo. Another engineer friend says Solidworks is poopie, use F360 or something else. I think it's mostly what you're used to. I'm also fairly certain that if you get real good at one, it's not horrible to learn another, not that you'd have to. My friend said he thought he could be up and running in about a week and he's doing radar engineering. Then again, he's a super nerd.
 
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Yes some people pick this stuff up so quickly, it's almost annoying! LOL

It's so true, ask a group of 10 of any kind of interest and you'll get at least 12 different opinions! LMAO

Some programs are "similar" enough that you can transfer your skills to the other very easily. But some are easier to do that with than others. Since I'm an old guy... it would be far better to learn just one. As long as it's powerful enough to design the stuff I desire to build, it's all good!
 
I'm medium old. 46. Last thing I learned well was photoshop. it's been a bit daunting with f360. Mostly don't want to sit in front of the computer. But I will work on it this summer.

Please don't learn this on your own... if you click on the video I linked above, the guy in that video, Lars, does training videos... a few years back I followed some of the beginner step-by-step designs and it came out great and I felt like a genius... too bad I didn't stick with it back then!
 

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