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Any DIY pedal builders on TB? Strut your stuff!
- Thread starter SubHuman
- Start date
Hard to say without seeing the schematic but I doubt it. I have put many transistors in upside down / 180 degrees off and they were fine. I have had problems with circuits in the past and thought it was because I put the transistor in the wrong way but it always ended up being a solder bridge or bad joint or something stupid on my part. Thought I fried the transistor but once I fixed the real problem and put the same transistor back in the right way all was good.
Matt
Calling on the Pumpernickel folks - I removed/replaced my THAT chip + socket, but now my pedal is borked - not getting any sound through it.
Of note, the THAT chip pins are getting HOT. No idea if that's normal or not. Hoping that someone might know enough about the schematic to help me maybe trace a short.
More specifically: I think it's possible I could have snipped some traces under the THAT, but I'm having a hard time telling which pins should be continuous.
Of note, the THAT chip pins are getting HOT. No idea if that's normal or not. Hoping that someone might know enough about the schematic to help me maybe trace a short.
More specifically: I think it's possible I could have snipped some traces under the THAT, but I'm having a hard time telling which pins should be continuous.
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Quick question: what's the type/form factor of these rectangular capacitors with the large markings on the top? I'm not familiar with it and I see most of you use them.
Box film capacitors. They come in different lead spacing. Typical is 5.08 lead spacing I believe.
Matt
I did a Harmonic Percolator recently. Been trying to do away with PCBs as much as possible.
The THAT-chip should definitely not get hot. This indicates that there is a short in the circuit. Can you take detailed photos? Why did you desolder the chip?
I wish I had a good answer. When I first built the pedal I used a machine-pin socket and diode legs to put it in the socket. Didn't realize you could put pin headers into leaf sockets at the time. Unfortunately it got soldered in place.
As I was finishing some other pedals I wanted to replace it with a leaf socket and use pin headers to make it removable. I knew it was a risk but it was sort of compulsive. Should have said the old "if it ain't broke..."
Will take some pictures and make some more multimeter touches later on. Don't know if I'll be able to take close enough pictures. Can't see any obviously lifted pads or obviously cut traces.
Have gotten lucky and found this schematic on the web at least Invalid Link Removed
Also emailed Julian to see if he'd be willing to put out the schematic and/or PCB files open-source now that he's not selling them. I don't expect him to, but one can dream right?
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I should also note, this is a new THAT retrofit module. I didn't trust the other one after desoldering it. There were no survivors.
I did build an audio probe a while back. But I'm nervous to use it if the chip is heating up.
It was fried. New one worked.
Lesson learned there, don’t install ICs late at night while watching James Bond
Certainly not doubting. But I wouldn't know if it was right or not. Ive only used it so far to test the THAT pins to their next components
Finally got around to building something, 3 pedals this month.
SHO clone:
EP-booster clone:
One-knob fuzz with BC548s, and the rest is something like a BAT Ritual:
SHO clone:
EP-booster clone:
One-knob fuzz with BC548s, and the rest is something like a BAT Ritual:
Pumpernickel fix aside for now...
Finishing my GUMA Antique + GUMA Drive combo build. Someone pointed me to this diagram:
My goal is to have the Antique first and the Drive second by default, and the switch to flip the order (something I with the EHX Hot Wax had, hence the project).
Would love it if someone would double check me. Seems simple but I'm reeling from my Pumpernickel disaster.
If I read this right, I think I should have:
Finishing my GUMA Antique + GUMA Drive combo build. Someone pointed me to this diagram:
My goal is to have the Antique first and the Drive second by default, and the switch to flip the order (something I with the EHX Hot Wax had, hence the project).
Would love it if someone would double check me. Seems simple but I'm reeling from my Pumpernickel disaster.
If I read this right, I think I should have:
- Send A = Antique Output
- Return A = Antique Input
- Send B = Drive Output
- Return B = Drive Input
Looks like you have your sends and returns backwards. Send = output return= input.
You're sending your dry signal into your effect and returning your effected signal back in.
I think I said that right.
You're sending your dry signal into your effect and returning your effected signal back in.
I think I said that right.
Sorry, I misread. My brain didn't compute your = sign and I misinterpreted. My apologies.
