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Any DIY pedal builders on TB? Strut your stuff!

Now with enclosure:
mono_front.jpg


mono_open.jpg
 
All that talk about resistor codes a few pages back was just foreshadowing what fate was about to unfold...

My buddy that repairs amps had a recent windfall — some radio-supply operation was shutting down and my friend got a bunch of huge transformers, other bits n bobs and a 1' to 1.5'-square box of resistors. All physical sizes from tiny no-see-ums to ones the size of a baby's finger. Various values, all bulk, all chucked loose into the same box (well, in bunches of loose clumps). I helped him fetch the stuff Thursday evening and then spent Thursday and Friday night sorting resistors; luckily they were deposited in bunches, so there were "pockets" of one resistor type — but still plenty of spillover.
Initially I was just matching the colour combos, but then I started trying to figure out what I was looking at (at the behest of my friend), such as Red Black Green Gold (2 Mega-Ohms 5%: # # modifier %-tolerance ) I'm starting to get the hang of the codes.

Amp-sifu gave me yet more guidance and short cuts. Such as you're not going to find a colour code combination for 69k, but common sizes such as 47k, 56k, and 68k have colour combinations that are repeated for 470k, 560k, and 680k etc.

Using the four-band system for demonstrating — Since the the first two stripes denote numbers, the 3rd stripe being the multiplier and last tolerance, we see the same combinations over and over.

Numbers
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

Ignoring the fourth stripe, tolerance, for now ...

470 Ohms
Yellow Purple Brown

4k7
Yellow Purple Red

47k
Yellow Purple Orange

470k
Yellow Purple Yellow

4M7
Yellow Purple Green

Any time you see yellow and purple together it's going to be 4 and 7 something, but never 7 and 4, since there's only 7 and 5: 7k5, 75k, 750k 7M5...
Since starting this hobby, over time I've become somewhat familiar with resistors' more common values, and now putting in just a modicum of effort to read the codes, it all seemed to come together for that beautiful flip-of-the-switch light-bulb moment.

I don't have it all memorised just yet... Ask me today what number blue represents and I can tell you, tomorrow I may not. Need more repetition...


When you see a green third stripe...

Brown Black Green =

1M

Brown Red Green =

1M2

Brown Grey Green =

1M8

Red Purple Green =

2M7

Orange Blue Green =

3M6

Yellow Purple Green =

4M7

... you know its mega-Ohms.

Yellow third stripe = 100,000 of whatever the first two stripes' values are.

I see a red third stripe now, I know I'm dealing with a 1,000 ohm (k) value such as 1k2, 5k6, 3k9...



I guess I'm stating the obvious, re the colours above, but I didn't take the time before to break it down or work it out in a way that made sense to me. It's actually a lot simpler and easier than what I thought and in fact, the charts just seem to make it more confusing and complicated than it needs to be.

Yet another tip from my mentor was very much like the way we're taught to read a stave:

2509450_orig.jpg

b04952193b2d8fac997d02adceeb7548.png



I can't remember my friend's memory-sticky as he only briefly mentioned part of it in passing, but I found a few such mnemonic devices online — none to my liking and a few I found in particularly bad taste! So I'll leave it up to you to come up with your own if such word-play indeed aids your style of learning. Besides, a mnemonic device doesn't really help me so much as it slows me down, but I do enjoy word-play for its own sake, so here's mine own:

BIG BROWN RATS ON YACHTS GET BIGGER VORACIOUSLY GOBBLING WENSLEYDALE

:wacky:

Or if "Wensleydale" is too long, "Whey"...
 
All that talk about resistor codes a few pages back was just foreshadowing what fate was about to unfold...

My buddy that repairs amps had a recent windfall — some radio-supply operation was shutting down and my friend got a bunch of huge transformers, other bits n bobs and a 1' to 1.5'-square box of resistors. All physical sizes from tiny no-see-ums to ones the size of a baby's finger. Various values, all bulk, all chucked loose into the same box (well, in bunches of loose clumps). I helped him fetch the stuff Thursday evening and then spent Thursday and Friday night sorting resistors; luckily they were deposited in bunches, so there were "pockets" of one resistor type — but still plenty of spillover.
Initially I was just matching the colour combos, but then I started trying to figure out what I was looking at (at the behest of my friend), such as Red Black Green Gold (2 Mega-Ohms 5%: # # modifier %-tolerance ) I'm starting to get the hang of the codes.

Amp-sifu gave me yet more guidance and short cuts. Such as you're not going to find a colour code combination for 69k, but common sizes such as 47k, 56k, and 68k have colour combinations that are repeated for 470k, 560k, and 680k etc.

Using the four-band system for demonstrating — Since the the first two stripes denote numbers, the 3rd stripe being the multiplier and last tolerance, we see the same combinations over and over.

Numbers
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

Ignoring the fourth stripe, tolerance, for now ...

470 Ohms
Yellow Purple Brown

4k7
Yellow Purple Red

47k
Yellow Purple Orange

470k
Yellow Purple Yellow

4M7
Yellow Purple Green

Any time you see yellow and purple together it's going to be 4 and 7 something, but never 7 and 4, since there's only 7 and 5: 7k5, 75k, 750k 7M5...

Since starting this hobby, over time I've become somewhat familiar with resistors' more common values, and now putting in just a modicum of effort to read the codes, it all seemed to come together for that beautiful flip-of-the-switch light-bulb moment.

I don't have it all memorised just yet... Ask me today what number blue represents and I can tell you, tomorrow I may not. Need more repetition...


When you see a green third stripe...

Brown Black Green =
1M


Brown Red Green =
1M2


Brown Grey Green =
1M8


Red Purple Green =
2M7


Orange Blue Green =
3M6


Yellow Purple Green =
4M7


... you know its mega-Ohms.

Yellow third stripe = 100,000 of whatever the first two stripes' values are.

I see a red third stripe now, I know I'm dealing with a 1,000 ohm (k) value such as 1k2, 5k6, 3k9...



I guess I'm stating the obvious, re the colours above, but I didn't take the time before to break it down or work it out in a way that made sense to me. It's actually a lot simpler and easier than what I thought and in fact, the charts just seem to make it more confusing and complicated than it needs to be.

Yet another tip from my mentor was very much like the way we're taught to read a stave:

View attachment 4158376
View attachment 4158377


I can't remember my friend's memory-sticky as he only briefly mentioned part of it in passing, but I found a few such mnemonic devices online — none to my liking and a few I found in particularly bad taste! So I'll leave it up to you to come up with your own if such word-play indeed aids your style of learning. Besides, a mnemonic device doesn't really help me so much as it slows me down, but I do enjoy word-play for its own sake, so here's mine own:

BIG BROWN RATS ON YACHTS GET BIGGER VORACIOUSLY GOBBLING WENSLEYDALE

:wacky:

Or if "Wensleydale" is too long, "Whey"...
The mnemonic my teacher in college used was
Bad beer rots our young guts but vodka goes well
 
Here's a DOD 250ri & HAO Sole Pressure hybrid. Used capacitor values and tone switching from the HAO for better bass. Had a gold reissue 250 a sold it because it was way too bright.
Diodes make a big difference in this circuit. Using red LEDs from the HAO schematic makes this pedal into a boost. Theres a sweet bassy spot around 1-2oclock on the gain knob. Gain above 3oclock is very bright and brings out finger & pick 'presence'. 'Warm' setting on the tone switch balanced out the brightness nicely. At max gain it starts spitting and farting. Output is fairly low making the lower half of the gain knob unusable.
Using 1N4148 diodes is stock DOD 250ri overdrive. Compared to LED's, there's much more useable range of gain and higher output. It's doesn't get as bright when turning up the gain either. Also found all three settings of the tone switch very useful. 'Bright' disconnects the treble rolloff cap for bringing out pick attack. 'Normal' is stock 1nF rolloff for balanced treble/bass tone. 'Warm' uses a 2.2nF cap for more rolloff and is the best setting for bass.
There was a subtle difference between TL072 and JRC4558 ic's, but the 4558 sounded slightly fuller.
Painted in burnt sienna & Hooker's green.
20210203_223813.jpg


20210203_222759.jpg
 
So I've wanted an octave pedal for awhile, and especially when I heard what happens when you run them into a Wooley Mammoth. I pulled the trigger on an EHX POG2 at a really good price, it's in transit. It just so happens theres a TB thread about the Synth sound using a Boss OC-2; I chimed in asking about the POG2 but I guess it's not ideal to use.

I know theres a new Boss OC-5, but I'm going to build an OC-2 to compare to the POG2. It has a lot going on, but I'm going to eliminate the switching circuit (about 1/6th of the schematic) in favor of a true bypass. This should be fun.
Screenshot_20210208-010735_Gallery.jpg
 
So I've wanted an octave pedal for awhile, and especially when I heard what happens when you run them into a Wooley Mammoth. I pulled the trigger on an EHX POG2 at a really good price, it's in transit. It just so happens theres a TB thread about the Synth sound using a Boss OC-2; I chimed in asking about the POG2 but I guess it's not ideal to use.

I know theres a new Boss OC-5, but I'm going to build an OC-2 to compare to the POG2. It has a lot going on, but I'm going to eliminate the switching circuit (about 1/6th of the schematic) in favor of a true bypass. This should be fun. View attachment 4159714

PedalPCB have an OC-2 PCB (Ocelot Octave) if you're looking to make things easier.

I've got a vero Woolly Mammoth and haven't heard what it sounds like with an octave pedal as I don't have one - what's the sound like? Is it crazy glitchy/wacky? The WM can get pretty nuts.
 
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PedalPCB have an OC-2 PCB (Ocelot Octave) if you're looking to make things easier.

I've got a vero Woolly Mammoth and haven't heard what it sounds like with an octave pedal as I don't have one - what's the sound like? Is it crazy glitchy/wacky? The WM can get pretty nuts.
Oooh, I'll check out the PedalPCB. I havent looked at any of their stuff yet. Thanks!

I posted a video a few weeks ago (Page 13, post 241) of what it sounds like.
Compressor - OC2 - Wooley Mammoth.

So I've been searching for a specific sound, and I've finally found the sound and how to get it.it starts around 7:10


Hes using a compressor to an OC-2 to a Wooley Mammoth.

So now I need to buy or build an Octave pedal and a Wooley Mammoth. I hope my compressor is good enough
 
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