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Any Motorcycle Riders? Advice for a Newbie?

Glad to hear you take the countersteering seriously. It really could be a life saver! I wish I could say that I'm not trying to scare you - but I AM ! This is very serious stuff. I'm talking from experience. Bikes are such a rush that it's easy to lose your head when riding. (figuratively & literally). You are absolutely right - it's scary to push left when you want to go right. The bike weighs so much that it's not easy to throw around & leaning that sucker over quickly is scary stuff, especially at higher speed. A little goes a long way w/ this maneuver. Keep in mind that once the bike starts to fall over you gotta get it back up & going opposite all in the same split second. The LAST thing you wanna do at HIGH speed is turn the handle bar, so pay attention to the road at all times. Take it SLOW & GRADUAL. IT'll get better I promise you. A bicycle won't REACT like a motorcycle even though the principle is the same. If you can borrow a dirt bike & practice off road, it'll take some of the fear factor out of it for you.
Re. clutch engagement : Don't sweat it bro - pretty soon you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.
B.
PS: If you stay aware & give yourself plenty of room in front of you on the road, you'll take the enjoyment of motorcycle riding to a new level. ENJOY !

Last year I saw a guy on a big touring bike go offroad and crash hard for no other reason than he couldn't lay the bike over and take the corner properly. I was behind him and saw the whole thing happen. If he had been familiar with his bikes handling, he could have easily taken the corner, even at a higher speed. Considering this type of crash, I'd much rather loose it from loss of traction than basically "give up" and take a high side crash as he did :rollno:
 
+1 on the MSF (Lowers your Insurance, and usually if you buy a new bike they'll throw it in free)

This coming from a sportbike rider...

Start slow, and ride your own pace. If you ever ride with other people, they would rather wait for you to catch up than wait for the Ambulance.

Gear: Buy the best you can, is your head worth a $100 helmet or $3,4,500+ helmet. And make sure all your gear fits.

This is my own personal preference, but for some reason very few people every use them. Spine Protector!!! A few years ago, we lost someone after he high-sided on one of our normal rides. It through him off the bike and landed straight into a street sign pole. If he were wearning one, he might not have been able to walk anymore, but he might still be with us.

I dont want to discourge you from riding, but be aware of the dangers that it brings. If there is one place not to get too big for your britch's, this is it.

But have fun its a blast. :D
 
without knowing how old you are and where you are, it's hard to give any practical advice. Everything so far has been very good.

I'm 18, and I live on the North side of Chicago. I've been learning in an alley so far, I really wish I had more space to practice. The mechanic who gave me a few lessons suggested going to a cemetery, because it's relatively free of traffic, and there are lots of curvy roads. My dad's joke was "You don't want to go riding in a cemetery, you might kill someone!" Where else do you suggest I can practice. I'm looking something like a big empty parking lot, free of obstacles and traffic, but it's rather hard to find around here.

In your flat driveway or parking lot you can practice this.....with the engine running,(do not use the throttle),keeping your feet planted firmly on the ground, let the clutch out VERY slow.do not use the throttle..when you feel it "grab" and the bike moves forward,squeez it back in....to create a rocking motion back and forth..you should only be moving a few inches forward( 6-8 in. at most)...repeat this process over and over and over and over..rocking forward and back.....its called finding the "friction zone"...do not use the throttle...don't worry about stalling the engine you can re-start it..(although it should'nt stall)...once you are comfortable with the friction zone,try going in a straight line by finding the "zone" and applying a LITTLE BIT of throttle when the clutch starts to grab...always take off in a straight line(even if its just a few feet)then make your turn,keeping your head up,looking where you want to go..DON'T LOOK DOWN..you steer the bike as much with your head and eyes as you do with your hands. if you look down,I think you know where you're gonna go ;).....this little piece of info is just one of the many things you will learn at the MSF class.(along with proper steering tecnique)...TAKE THE MSF CLASS !!!!..I'm sure your parents wont mind paying the fee to keep their kid safe(if your a minor):)...taking the class not only gives YOU the skills to ride safe but,it will help to keep EVERYONE ELSE on the road a little safer too...sorry if I sound like I'm lecturing you but,this should be taken seriously...don't become a statistic,we do not want to read about you in the newspaper.......now comes the slap on the butt...have fun...:D

Using only the clutch is the first thing I started doing on the bike. I'm getting better with the clutch. I actually took the bike on the street a little bit last night (a quick lap around the neighborhood). Any advice for taking off when turning from a stop sign? After stalling it at the first one, I just sorta rolled through stop signs if I had to turn, but I should be able to do it properly.

Do you guys think that the MSF course ($300) is going to be much better than the IDOT course ($20)? I know that IDOT courses are booked, but there is a pretty good chance that if I show up, there will be atleast one no-show. However, if the MSF course is worth it over the state run course, I'll pay for it if my parents don't want to.

How much experience did you have riding in traffic before you became licensed? I've been driving for 3 years in a few months, so I feel like if I can control the bike well, I could negotiate traffic. I still wouldn't mind riding through town with someone with me before I go out on my own, but my dad only has one motorcycle.

One last thing. In the IDOT Motorcycle Handbook, they show the 4 exercises you must pass during the road test. Does anyone know the cone spacing for the cone weave? For some reason this is not included.
 
I'd recommend the MSF course before any others. In my area, it is a 2-day course, and covers a lot of ground.

As for turning from stop signs: You want to be moving before you turn the bike. It's a lot easier to remain upright if you turn from a moving position. Just get a foot or two in a straight line before turning. Just watch the limits of your lane.
 
I'd recommend the MSF course before any others. In my area, it is a 2-day course, and covers a lot of ground.

As for turning from stop signs: You want to be moving before you turn the bike. It's a lot easier to remain upright if you turn from a moving position. Just get a foot or two in a straight line before turning. Just watch the limits of your lane.

I see that you can test at the MSF course facility. Is passing this test similar to getting your waiver, meaning that I won't have to pass the test at the DMV when I go for my license? Or will I still be required to take the road test? I know that if you pass the IDOT course, you are not required to pass the road test.
 
I see that you can test at the MSF course facility. Is passing this test similar to getting your waiver, meaning that I won't have to pass the test at the DMV when I go for my license? Or will I still be required to take the road test? I know that if you pass the IDOT course, you are not required to pass the road test.

In Texas, the path is:

1. Apply for Motorcycle permit at DMV
2. Take the MSF Course and Pass
3. Show DMV your course certificate, receive full license with no road test.
 
Last year I saw a guy on a big touring bike go offroad and crash hard for no other reason than he couldn't lay the bike over and take the corner properly...

Riders on Goldwings and the like are a sad sight when they don't know how to use one. Riders who took a MotoPro course (MSF equivalent around here), however, are very entertaining, as they move it like any sports bike. Most of them grind footpegs in tight turns. :p
 
A few weeks ago my dad bought a Honda Rebel. He used to ride alot, but hasn't in years, and he always talked about how he was going to get a motorcycle. Well he finally got it out of his system, and to my surprise, he wanted to teach me how to ride, even though my entire life he's said that he will never allow me to ride a motorcycle.

It was just like learning to drive a car with him: lots of screaming and panicking. I've also never driven a stick, so I didn't even get moving. I've been spoiled with an automatic transmission and the clutch is not something I'm used to thinking about. Then he decided that he was not the best person to teach me, so paid our mechanic a visit to ask where I could get some lessons. He offered to teach me right away.

I had my first lesson yesterday, and the mechanic is a MUCH better teacher. I've only learned how to ride in a straight line in first gear, but I'm having a blast. I thought driving a car was cool, but its nothing compared to this. I'm getting some more lessons tomorrow and I can't wait. I think I'm hooked, this is seriously the most fun I've had in a long time.

What really surprised me once I got going was how vulnerable you feel on a motorcycle. Obviously they are dangerous, but a little twist of the throttle and I feel like I'm going 60 mph. Also, a Honda Rebel is a pretty small bike, and it feels heavy as hell. I'm just concerned about learning to ride this bike well right now, and I plan to take the IDOT Motorcycle Course after I'm done with these lessons. Maybe even some intermediate and advanced courses. Everyone I talk to says that motorcycles are a blast, but everyone has a few bad stories to tell you as well.

I'm already trying to figure out how I'm going to afford my own bike, but right now I'm concerned about learning how to ride well so that I don't get hurt. Any advice?

I agree MC course and just be careful! I live in NJ and used to ride but, I no longer do because, people in cars are clueless and no matter how well you ride one of these Jack Holes will kill you lost a friend about two months ago cut off by a car!!!!!!! same jake hole story I never seen him full dress Harley D loud as they get! better off buying a dirt bike if you live in NJ
 
...always take off in a straight line(even if its just a few feet)then make your turn,keeping your head up,looking where you want to go..DON'T LOOK DOWN..you steer the bike as much with your head and eyes as you do with your hands. if you look down,I think you know where you're gonna go ;).....this little piece of info is just one of the many things you will learn at the MSF class.(along with proper steering tecnique)...TAKE THE MSF CLASS !!!! (I quoted myself)

Some states will waive your road test(NY does) but you must have a permit to take the MSF...that course will teach you the "4 exercises you must pass" and other life saving tecniques...well worth the money,just do it...
 
I'd like to discuss some protective gear. I don't want to spend $1000 on gear, and I've been trying to make due with what I already have.

Boots: I have some steel toed construction boots that I've been wearing on the bike. They come well over my ankle, seems like I get good traction. They have a very aggressive tread. Do motorcycle boots offer that much of an advantage over work boots? I'm worried mostly about traction, especially on little bits of gravel. My work boots honestly look more protective than all the motorcycle boots I've looked at.

Pants: I wear my work jeans, though I'm sure the would get ripped up if I went down. Do I need overpants, or is that overkill in the city?

Jacket: I do own a leather jacket, though it wasn't made specifically for riding a motorcycle. Any reason this wouldn't be sufficient?

Gloves: Would leather work gloves be enough? I saw some motorcycle gloves as well when I was looking at boots, and they felt very flimsy. Almost like the batting gloves baseball players wear. I did see some with knuckle protection. These gloves were definitely a fabric, I was expecting them to be leather.

Eye Protection/helmet: I should just go with a full face helmet, and that would take care of eye protection as well. What about sunglasses, I don't want to be blinded if I'm riding into the sun? Do they count as eye protection if I wore them with a half helmet? Think I could slip a pair of sunglasses under a full face helmet?

Is it just me, or does it seem like most protective gear is designed to make you look like Master Chief?


I took my cousins to Six Flags and my Buick broke down 40-something miles away. The transmission is toast, and it will cost 2500 to fix. Less than a week before, my brake line burst for the 3rd time this year (not fun to be driving and discover that your brake pedal doesn't respond). So basically, we aren't fixing this car anymore, and now I have no wheels. We've had this car for 14 years, it used to be my moms, she gave it to me last year. I'm gonna miss her.

I'm wondering how many people use or have used their bike as a main source of transportation. I can almost afford to buy a used Rebel or something similar. After I had the bike, insurance and gas would be SO cheap compared to the car (she burned 18 gallons of premium every week or so). I believe my dad's insurance is 200 bucks a year because of the low displacement. It's not year round transportation, but I could get around without borrowing a parent's car. Or maybe I'm just trying to justify buying my own bike...

I guess I could just wait for them to buy me another car (not going to happen).
 
I wear steel toe engineer boots with oil resistant soles; not expensive
Jeans with $49.95 leather chaps I bought on sale
Leather motorcycle jacket bought new on sale for $99.00; the sleeves are cut longer and the collar snaps down on bike jackets for more comfort in riding.
Under Armour baseball gloves from Dicks for about $9.00.
Do not go cheap on your helmet or eye protection.
 
A Good web site: http://www.newenough.com/ .

I am firm believer in the ATGATT philosophy. From Urban Dictionary:
Stands for All The Gear All The Time, means you love riding, and you want to keep on riding regardless.

The gear list must be motorcycling specific gloves, jacket, pants, boots and a full-face helmet. Open-face does not count (leave your face on the road and so long for ATGATT, buddy). Jeans do not count, fall down going 20mph, and voila! you have nice big fleshless spots on your knees!

Remember, without your gear you have only one chance of accident. Crash once, and you're done for.

I'd like to discuss some protective gear. I don't want to spend $1000 on gear, and I've been trying to make due with what I already have.
You should be able to get something good for a lot less than that if you search for used stuff and/or older closeout models.
Boots: I have some steel toed construction boots that I've been wearing on the bike. They come well over my ankle, seems like I get good traction. They have a very aggressive tread. Do motorcycle boots offer that much of an advantage over work boots? I'm worried mostly about traction, especially on little bits of gravel. My work boots honestly look more protective than all the motorcycle boots I've looked at.
Your work boots are definitely much better than sneakers. However, my Invalid Link Removed have specific motorcycle safety function, such as armor in the ankles and along the front of the shin. (The linked review details many of the safety features) Also, very strong metal/plastic construction to ensure that my foot will not be turned backwards or sideways or something.
Pants: I wear my work jeans, though I'm sure the would get ripped up if I went down. Do I need overpants, or is that overkill in the city?
I never ride anywhere without overpants. The most important thing built into overpants is padded armor built into the knees and hips and sometimes the butt. Jeans are better than naked, but on hot pavement they'll shred in a second, then your skin will start to shred. The "chaps" popular with the cruising crowd are minimally helpful. Without padding, knees will shatter on the road where my knees in padded armored gear have a much better chance. Also, one of the places you need to protect are the asscheeks. Most chaps leave the asscheeks out of the equasion.
Jacket: I do own a leather jacket, though it wasn't made specifically for riding a motorcycle. Any reason this wouldn't be sufficient?
Dedicated motorcycle jackets have doubled up abrasion resistance in the places that will get the most damage in a get-off. This includes the shoulders, elbows, lower back. Also, there will be a great deal of padded armor, in the shoulders, elbow, and back. This will save your bones.

Your leather jacket is better than nothing, but in a get-off, the back of it will ride right up your back, and your lower back will get road rash (I know this first hand). A proper motorcycle jacket will zip to the pants, and will offer padding and extra abrasion resistance in key locations.
Gloves: Would leather work gloves be enough? I saw some motorcycle gloves as well when I was looking at boots,
My motorcycle gloves have Kevlar™ built in to them, and extra layers of leather at certain locations where I'm most likely to hit my hands in a get-off. Along the palm, along the back of the knuckles. A shop that I used to frequent had a pair of kevlar reinforced gloves from a 150mph+ track get-off and they were badly damaged, but it was apparent that the hand underneath was minimally damaged. Some of the newer gloves have plastic, metal, or Carbon Fiber armor.
Eye Protection/helmet: I should just go with a full face helmet, and that would take care of eye protection as well. What about sunglasses, I don't want to be blinded if I'm riding into the sun? Do they count as eye protection if I wore them with a half helmet? Think I could slip a pair of sunglasses under a full face helmet?
I wear glasses under a FF helmet all the time. Recommended.
Is it just me, or does it seem like most protective gear is designed to make you look like Master Chief?
Or Power Rangers.
I took my cousins to Six Flags and my Buick broke down 40-something miles away. The transmission is toast, and it will cost 2500 to fix. Less than a week before, my brake line burst for the 3rd time this year (not fun to be driving and discover that your brake pedal doesn't respond). So basically, we aren't fixing this car anymore, and now I have no wheels. We've had this car for 14 years, it used to be my moms, she gave it to me last year. I'm gonna miss her.

I'm wondering how many people use or have used their bike as a main source of transportation. I can almost afford to buy a used Rebel or something similar. After I had the bike, insurance and gas would be SO cheap compared to the car (she burned 18 gallons of premium every week or so). I believe my dad's insurance is 200 bucks a year because of the low displacement. It's not year round transportation, but I could get around without borrowing a parent's car. Or maybe I'm just trying to justify buying my own bike...

I guess I could just wait for them to buy me another car (not going to happen).
I've had friends who used their moto as the only form of transportation. I wouldn't do it myself or recommend it. Seems difficult in winter.
 
Riders on Goldwings and the like are a sad sight when they don't know how to use one. Riders who took a MotoPro course (MSF equivalent around here), however, are very entertaining, as they move it like any sports bike. Most of them grind footpegs in tight turns. :p

I've seen some amazing Goldwing and other Touring Bike riders at Deals Gap. The ones that really know what their doing are amazing. Yes, scraping, sparks but they are MOVING :) I can easily scrape on both sides of my FatBob at will :hmm: I miss the Busa days...........sometimes :cool:
 
I communted 100 miles round trip to school five days a week in the early 80's where my primary transportation was my 1978 H-D Electraglide. It was not fun in ice and snow but it worked. I would suggest a Ural with a side-hack. They are cheap, easy to work on, cannot turn over, you can haul stuff in the hack and they have a PTO to the hack wheel so they go on ice, snow and mud
 
I communted 100 miles round trip to school five days a week in the early 80's where my primary transportation was my 1978 H-D Electraglide. It was not fun in ice and snow but it worked. I would suggest a Ural with a side-hack. They are cheap, easy to work on, cannot turn over, you can haul stuff in the hack and they have a PTO to the hack wheel so they go on ice, snow and mud

A Ural too expensive for me. They look awesome, almost like a 3 wheeled Jeep. I didn't think they made bikes with 2WD.

I'm thinking I could ride a bike during winter until the first snowfall (Sometimes we don't get snow until January). Then probably not until the snow melts in the spring. It would be cold as hell though. If the streets are plowed and salted, how dangerous would it be to take my bike out?